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Should Krause World book prices be ignored?

I am researching fair market value on a certain coin which is becoming impossible because it has apparently never sold anywhere. Now Krause lists the coin in UNC @ 850$ and 900 in BU. Problem with this is that the coin is ~1.2 ounces of gold. (41 gram coin @ .9 gold). This would put the coin at NEGATIVE numismatic value versus the spot price of gold at any time in the past 3 years, so even if the 2010 edition of Krause which I have was printed well before 2010, the price just doesnt seem anywhere near.

I have tracked the coin down and was quoted a price of 2500-3000. This is a very low mintage piece(under 1000). The only price reference I have is this Krause estimate. I know its wrong right off the bat but just how wrong is it? Should it be thrown out the window completely and does anyone have any other usggestions on researching the true value of such a piece any other way? Thanks.


Comments

  • sylsyl Posts: 972 ✭✭✭
    Most bullion coins are sold based upon scrap value of the gold and you should be able to get 90-95% of the scrap value from a reputable dealer that takes bullion. In the front of Krause, they will tell you the spot prices for the metals that they based their prices on for that edition. Krause, like most coin guides, lists a full retail value for the coin and you will never be able to sell it for that. Whatever you do, don't sell it to one of those "cash for gold" outfits that are proliferating right now. You'd be lucky to get 40% of scrap value. Even with mintages of 1000, supply far exceeds demand in most cases, unless it is a coin intended for actual circulation .. not iust for looking at.
  • mumumumu Posts: 1,840


    << <i>Most bullion coins are sold based upon scrap value of the gold and you should be able to get 90-95% of the scrap value from a reputable dealer that takes bullion. In the front of Krause, they will tell you the spot prices for the metals that they based their prices on for that edition. Krause, like most coin guides, lists a full retail value for the coin and you will never be able to sell it for that. Whatever you do, don't sell it to one of those "cash for gold" outfits that are proliferating right now. You'd be lucky to get 40% of scrap value. Even with mintages of 1000, supply far exceeds demand in most cases, unless it is a coin intended for actual circulation .. not iust for looking at. >>



    Thanks for th einfo. My research is in terms of trying to aquire the coin though and not in selling it. As such it appears difficult to do so with the same(in reverse) philosophy that you have stated above. However having found now 1 instance of the coin being sold(thanks to this same post being posted on another forum) I now have a guideline to help not getting ripped off if I ever purchase the coin. Anyway thanks for the reply and in a sense it is helpful for another issue I have in that I do have some scrap gold I'd like to sell. Now I just need to find one of these dealers you mention who pay 90-95 for scrap gold image
  • OchoRealesOchoReales Posts: 1,500
    When I can buy at Krause prices for my collection, I do the Happy Dance! image
    Lurker since '02. Got the seven year itch!

    Gary
  • JCMhoustonJCMhouston Posts: 5,306 ✭✭✭
    In the areas I collect Krause is fairly meaningless for actual prices. It does generally give you a good idea of relative rarity (cost).
  • bidaskbidask Posts: 14,028 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I am researching fair market value on a certain coin which is becoming impossible because it has apparently never sold anywhere. Now Krause lists the coin in UNC @ 850$ and 900 in BU. Problem with this is that the coin is ~1.2 ounces of gold. (41 gram coin @ .9 gold). This would put the coin at NEGATIVE numismatic value versus the spot price of gold at any time in the past 3 years, so even if the 2010 edition of Krause which I have was printed well before 2010, the price just doesnt seem anywhere near.

    I have tracked the coin down and was quoted a price of 2500-3000. This is a very low mintage piece(under 1000). The only price reference I have is this Krause estimate. I know its wrong right off the bat but just how wrong is it? Should it be thrown out the window completely and does anyone have any other usggestions on researching the true value of such a piece any other way? Thanks. >>

    What is the coin?
    I manage money. I earn money. I save money .
    I give away money. I collect money.
    I don’t love money . I do love the Lord God.




  • pruebaspruebas Posts: 4,650 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>In the areas I collect Krause is fairly meaningless for actual prices. It does generally give you a good idea of relative rarity (cost). >>


    Same here. And they went on a binge a few years ago removing photos, so now its even more useless. Imagine that, no photos for patterns! How you going to ID them? image
  • coinkatcoinkat Posts: 23,836 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Putting together a comprehensive catalog is a project that has challenges-

    What is hot and what is not before press and seeing it outdated quickly

    Condition rarity- placing a value on such coins

    Real rarity- placing reasonable valuations

    Should be ignored? No- just remember that it is a guide- and only a guide

    Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.

  • marcmoishmarcmoish Posts: 6,662 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Might as well throw out the book in many many instances. The values are simply not written in stone so many times that over the last many years I've simply used it for value idea, scarcity information, mintage and general background. It is a hell of a reference overall but as said so many times due diligence is best.
    What one should do is probably use Krause in conjuction with the POP reports (both PCGS & NGC) and HA Archives - once you put those three factors together you might get a pretty good idea what the value is. personally I think the trio are a must!
    Of course its best to consult someone that knows said area of coins/country etc that you are looking into - or getting to know it damn weel if you are doing it alone.
    Patience is a virtue image


    Marc
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,731 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Krause is worthless for base metal moderns. Prices range from multiples
    of true value to a tiny fraction of real value. They tend to be a fraction of
    real value.

    I can give you a few rules of thumbs for gold but it can be complicated and
    inaccurate.

    Start with a pre-1980 Krause and if the coin has a large premium and is
    gold then it probably is still worth a significant premium. This doesn't apply
    so well to post WWII gold though. A lot of it won't normally trade at a pre-
    mium.

    If value is not condition dependent it does help a little.

    If it's popular like China the premium is real. Don't just assume that the
    premium is relative to gold value, if it had a $400 premium at low gold
    prices then it won't necessarily at higher ones. Many of these premiums
    just get erased as gold price increases.

    There are quite a few more modern gold pieces that actually have demand.
    These can be so hard to find that they have good premiums. The Jamaican
    Bob Marley coin comes to mind.

    Collectors can usually get away with paying premiums for stuff but inves-
    tors tend to get burned.
    tempus fugit extra philosophiam.
  • theboz11theboz11 Posts: 6,576 ✭✭✭
    In the front of Krause they give you the Base medal value that the prices where quoted for reference. You can work from there to get an Idea,,, But it is only a guide that comes out once a year,,,, Hardly something to make your living off of, or bet your life savings. The mintage has no bearing if there are no collectors for the item.image
  • mumumumu Posts: 1,840


    << <i>

    << <i>I am researching fair market value on a certain coin which is becoming impossible because it has apparently never sold anywhere. Now Krause lists the coin in UNC @ 850$ and 900 in BU. Problem with this is that the coin is ~1.2 ounces of gold. (41 gram coin @ .9 gold). This would put the coin at NEGATIVE numismatic value versus the spot price of gold at any time in the past 3 years, so even if the 2010 edition of Krause which I have was printed well before 2010, the price just doesnt seem anywhere near.

    I have tracked the coin down and was quoted a price of 2500-3000. This is a very low mintage piece(under 1000). The only price reference I have is this Krause estimate. I know its wrong right off the bat but just how wrong is it? Should it be thrown out the window completely and does anyone have any other usggestions on researching the true value of such a piece any other way? Thanks. >>

    What is the coin? >>



    1969 Uruguay Mil Pesos FAO issue in gold. Thanks everyone ofr the answers.
  • satootokosatootoko Posts: 2,720


    << <i>Should Krause World book prices be ignored? >>

    No, but they should be taken with a healthy dose of salt!
    Roy


    image
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,731 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    1969 Uruguay Mil Pesos FAO issue in gold. Thanks everyone ofr the answers. >>



    That's a beautiful coin and should be spectacular in gold.

    The '76 doesn't list a price and the '86 lists it as a pattern for $500. My guess is
    that thisa coin really warrants a premium with a mintage of 450 but it might not
    be easy to get it. I'm confident the coin will be tough to find.

    My experience with gold coins is that the market is highly selective and quite small.
    tempus fugit extra philosophiam.
  • wildjagwildjag Posts: 1,335 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>

    1969 Uruguay Mil Pesos FAO issue in gold. Thanks everyone ofr the answers. >>



    That's a beautiful coin and should be spectacular in gold.

    The '76 doesn't list a price and the '86 lists it as a pattern for $500. My guess is
    that thisa coin really warrants a premium with a mintage of 450 but it might not
    be easy to get it. I'm confident the coin will be tough to find.

    My experience with gold coins is that the market is highly selective and quite small. >>



    My newest Krause doesn't even list the weight or fineness of the coin
  • WWWWWW Posts: 2,609 ✭✭✭
    I have yet to purchase an edition and really do not see any reason to do so.
  • 7Jaguars7Jaguars Posts: 7,741 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I find that there is a lot of information in the Krause books and that they do generally, at least in the area of coins I know (Gr. Britain 19th and 20th C. milled predecimal) to have fairly accurate information - this catalog absolutely can NOT be all things to all people. It should serve to give decent introductory information, sometimes more.

    For the haters in the crowd I would suggest that THEY try and put together just, say A-C and see how it goes...I would not base a multi-thousand dollar auction bid on the values listed. I think it makes it a bit fun if as CladKing says they have some recent base metal minors listed at a fraction of their worth (?!).
    Love that Milled British (1830-1960)
    Well, just Love coins, period.
  • WWWWWW Posts: 2,609 ✭✭✭
    Hate is a pretty strong word, Jag. Does it really apply here?
  • 7Jaguars7Jaguars Posts: 7,741 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Oh, sorry. "haters" is a term young people in the States use for saying negative things about something/someone else. Really is not that ugly a term.

    Certainly I did not mean it in the traditional sense of the word & did not mean to offend.
    Love that Milled British (1830-1960)
    Well, just Love coins, period.
  • mrpotatoheaddmrpotatoheadd Posts: 7,576 ✭✭✭


    << <i>For the haters in the crowd I would suggest that THEY try and put together just, say A-C and see how it goes... >>

    No doubt, putting a catalog like the SCWC out is a difficult undertaking. On the other hand, if you're going to advertise your catalog as "delivering comprehensive pricing compiled from data provided by 150 experts worldwide", I'd suggest you have at least a minimal obligation to verify that the information you're publishing is somewhat accurate. If nothing else, there should be a note under each country in the catalog with the date of the last pricing update for that country. JMO.
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,731 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I find that there is a lot of information in the Krause books and that they do generally, at least in the area of coins I know (Gr. Britain 19th and 20th C. milled predecimal) to have fairly accurate information - this catalog absolutely can NOT be all things to all people. It should serve to give decent introductory information, sometimes more.

    For the haters in the crowd I would suggest that THEY try and put together just, say A-C and see how it goes...I would not base a multi-thousand dollar auction bid on the values listed. I think it makes it a bit fun if as CladKing says they have some recent base metal minors listed at a fraction of their worth (?!). >>



    I wouldn't say hate is necessarily the right word but it's pretty galling
    to have to buy this piece of junk when they apparently aren't making
    any real attempt to fix the pricing. I used to keep up with the real mar-
    ket on moderns because it's my ballpark but can't any longer and am
    at the mercy of Krause. Many of these are quite fluid and rapidly chan-
    ging but the price remains fixed in the catalog. Many can be bought for
    a piitance if you can find a seller but you can't find a seller because the
    coins are rare and the catalog doesn't reflect true market prices. This
    simply stifles the market on something like a 1983 Irish 50P. If the val-
    ue listed in Krause were updated to what these are offered for then
    more would be able to trade hands ands a few more would come out
    of the woodwork. I see this coin at $150 while Krause lists it as common.

    Modern French can be almost impossible in true unc so even XF prices
    are high in France but these list mostly under $1 in Krause even in unc!
    There are some coins like the mid-'60's Turkish coins that they list at ve-
    ry high prices but they appear in mint sets that they list for only a few
    dollars. The finest specimens appear in the sets and I've never been
    able to distinguish these from circulation issues.

    This goes across the board. They raised Malta prices recently but I
    don't know if this is justified or not. As a rule if a coin is listed as cheap,
    unc, base metal, and modern it is probably underpriced unless it's one
    of the many hoard coins. But I don't know which ones unless I do the
    legwork myself. Some of this stuff I know is scarce. It doesn't necessa-
    rily warrant a high price because that requires demand. Try finding coins
    like CN Indian in unc, or modern Japan or China. There's a lot of stuff
    that isn't seen and Krause isn't reacting as the demand builds and
    some prices are becoming outdated.

    AAaaRRrgggHHhh.

    They do alright with a few popular countries from popular eras to col-
    lect. But I don't put much faith in a lot of their prices and tire of them
    taking it upon themselves to change the names of entitre countries. The
    worst was when they dropped the "El" from "El Salvador" a few years
    back.
    tempus fugit extra philosophiam.
  • olmanjonolmanjon Posts: 1,187
    I buy most of my base metal coins at 50% of Krause. I have no problem with that. However, this is not the reason I have the Krause books. I have over 10,000 coins from over 300 differant countries and I use the Krause books to keep a running inventory of what I have. I have just circled the date and condition of each coin. That way I know I have it somewhere in my collection. How else would you keep track of your collection?
    Olmanjon
    Proud recipiant of the Lord M "you suck award-March-2008"
    http://bit.ly/bxi7py
  • mumumumu Posts: 1,840


    << <i>I buy most of my base metal coins at 50% of Krause. I have no problem with that. However, this is not the reason I have the Krause books. I have over 10,000 coins from over 300 differant countries and I use the Krause books to keep a running inventory of what I have. I have just circled the date and condition of each coin. That way I know I have it somewhere in my collection. How else would you keep track of your collection?
    Olmanjon >>



    In this case the coin in question is priced at around spot of its base metal(gold), which would surely be nice if I could apply your 50% formula to image
  • satootokosatootoko Posts: 2,720


    << <i>I buy most of my base metal coins at 50% of Krause. >>



    << <i>In this case the coin in question is priced at around spot of its base metal(gold) >>

    A great example of the vagaries of the English language. At first glance it looks as though both of you are talking about the same thing, but in "my base metal coins" "base" means "not precious", i.e. copper, bronze,aluminum, nickel, and their various alloys; while in "its base metal" "base" means basic or foundational. In other words, you are using other words that just sound the same and have the same spelling.
    Roy


    image
  • mumumumu Posts: 1,840


    << <i>

    << <i>I buy most of my base metal coins at 50% of Krause. >>



    << <i>In this case the coin in question is priced at around spot of its base metal(gold) >>

    A great example of the vagaries of the English language. At first glance it looks as though both of you are talking about the same thing, but in "my base metal coins" "base" means "not precious", i.e. copper, bronze,aluminum, nickel, and their various alloys; while in "its base metal" "base" means basic or foundational. In other words, you are using other words that just sound the same and have the same spelling. >>



    I assumed base meant not alloys, but I suppose all coins are alloys to some extent. In this case I was the one using the wrong terminology.
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,731 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I buy most of my base metal coins at 50% of Krause. I have no problem with that. However, this is not the reason I have the Krause books. I have over 10,000 coins from over 300 differant countries and I use the Krause books to keep a running inventory of what I have. I have just circled the date and condition of each coin. That way I know I have it somewhere in my collection. How else would you keep track of your collection?
    >>



    This is a great price for a collector to pay for modern base metal coins in unc. You'll
    probably do very well on them. An investor paying the same price probably would
    lose his shirt because of not having one of everything and knowing a good deal when
    he sees it. An investor will end up buying hundreds of examples of distressingly com-
    mon coins for every scarce one he lucks into.

    On average Krause price probably averages about 40% of a reasonable valuation
    on modern uncs. But they're all over the map so you'll get a lot of great bargains if
    you're paying 50%.
    tempus fugit extra philosophiam.
  • mrpotatoheaddmrpotatoheadd Posts: 7,576 ✭✭✭


    << <i>On average Krause price probably averages about 40% of a reasonable valuation
    on modern uncs. But they're all over the map so you'll get a lot of great bargains if
    you're paying 50%. >>

    Before I moved, the local dealer was selling me all the world coins he got in that I wanted at half catalog as long as I looked them up and graded them first. Hard to beat that, when you can find some 50+ year old gems that list for 25 cents... image
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