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Bowermml

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vladguerrero

i wouldn't touch anything GAI that's a big $ card, even back in the day there was a reason people sent to them and that wasn't to leave money on the table...

EDIT, could be nice cards but I wouldn't compare equivalent or close grades with the big 3...

fkw

I see a lot of $5-$20 cards, a few $50 ones, 1 maybe $500, and a couple $2K+ ones mixed in.

The T3 Mathewson is the best card.

What set (1926?) is the McGraw from, front looks like a E210, W502 or one of the ice cream issues.

msassin

I'd feel safe buying the old GAI flip (Cobb) but not the newer flips (Mantle). Definitely wouldn't pay SGC/PSA 8 price for it though.

mikeschmidt

GAI is a gamble, and a [far away] scan is not a good way to make an estimate. Thousands of dollars of potential risk/reward in making the right/wrong call on that...

m

Bowermml

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BobbyVCP

The Cobb alone if it would cross over to a PSA 8 is a $20-30K card. So tell him that you want to send that into PSA and if it crosses you make the deal. Even if it makes it to a 7 it's a $5K card

Bowermml

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divecchia

I agree with the others that the GAI cards are a big gamble...

Donato

Bowermml

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hammered

Most collectors feel that if cards like this were authentic, they'd have gone to PSA or SGC in the first place. No one leaves that kind of $ on the table by first subbing to GAI, given that GAI slabs sell for far less than the others. That Cobb is sharp and centered and if genuine, would have earned at least a 7 from the other 2 TPGs. The 71s are likely trimmed, simply because of how impossible Bradshaw and Greene are to find in genuine unaltered 9. I'm guessing they were PSA rejects.

Maybe the seller would agree to hold the $ in escrow for a couple weeks, to allow you to have the big ones authenticated?

Bowermml

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Morgoth

My take on the lot so far.

Newer cards in newer GAI holders. I am going to say overgraded but not trimmed. You can see white on the corners of the bradshaw and greene. PSA tends to knock those way down for showing white.

That Cobb would really really worry me. First off I would definately measure the card. Then I would also look for bubbles, wrinkles and signs of spooned out creases. Pay attention to the corners to see if they have had some work done.

I would view the cobb as either being overgraded or altered. If you really want to make the deal and take the chance on the it being altered. I would value the Cobb between a PSA 6 and 7. If you get it for between those 2 prices you stand a chance at makeing out ok.

fkw

Reading this post again (I need to do this more often)

I see its a LOT offered at $8.5K (does he say "Firm"), offer less.

But like others say, the lot is made or broken on the Cobb.
You need to get a guarantee it can cross to PSA or SGC.
I would most worry about it being labled/rejected as trimmed.
Its not counterfeit.

Take a look at them in person, take pictures, ask questions of why selling where purchased from, etc., wait 1+ days, make an offer back.

I wouldnt add the filler (1970/80's raw) value up, treat it like a throw in.

PS. Besides the Cobb........ The other good chunk of value is the T3
When you get back, Show a good picture front/back of the T3 Mathewson. I kinda see a corner crease in upper right corner, The pics you showed earlier are bad, so cant tell you more.... if its VG/EX, a couple grand easy. An authentic card is obvious in person, they are like small paintings with an orangepeel like surface texture upon close examination. But look for pinholes, recolor areas, trimming of border (should have consistent edge wear with some chipping), back writing/damage, etc.

IMO, Its only a good deal if the Cobb crosses.

blunder19

Does anyone know how to get in touch with the member Bowermml? or who that person is?

TNP777

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gumbyfan

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csmtampa

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zep33

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