Anyone sending in for autographed card special?
trapperlad
Posts: 107 ✭✭
I was wondering if I could piggyback a card with somebody's submission. Thanks, Trapperlad.
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If theres any room after the above poster catches on, I have about 5-7 cards that Id love to send in. Please PM.
Collecting Robin Ventura and Matt Luke.
PLMK,
Thanks,
Dan
<< <i>is this for the red label or blue label? I would also be interested in sending in a few cards,
PLMK,
Thanks,
Dan >>
I believe that it is for both the authentication and a grade, but you have the option to mark only have it authenticated.
Collecting Robin Ventura and Matt Luke.
Where do I find the list of fees?
This applies to ANY autographed card, from any year for $10 each. Cards and/or Autographs must be valued under $150. No Minimum Quantity Required
This is a special DUAL SERVICE wherein each card will go through both the PSA/DNA Authentication for the autograph and PSA Authentication and Grading for the card regardless of whether the card is post-1998 direct from the manufacturer
Doug
(For Silver, Gold & Platinum Members)
Any autographed trading card with a declared value of under $150 can be submitted for only $10, which is 50% off the regular fee!
This applies to ANY autographed card, from any year for $10 each. Cards and/or Autographs must be valued under $150. No Minimum Quantity Required
This is a special DUAL SERVICE wherein each card will go through both the PSA/DNA Authentication for the autograph and PSA Authentication and Grading for the card regardless of whether the card is post-1998 direct from the manufacturer. For clarification, see related article.
Turnaround Time Varies With Demand
Hurry! All orders must be postmarked between 05/01/10 - 05/31/10
Tallboys, Supersized, Thicker Memorabilia/Patch Cards, are permitted on this special
This special excludes T-3's
As a reminder, the submitter can choose to have the card graded by PSA or simply encapsulated and labeled "Authentic" - please be sure to mark the submission form accordingly
Here's what you need to do:
•Fill out a submission form and write MAY COLLECTORS CLUB SPECIAL on the top of the form
•Mark OTHER as the type of service
•Click here to print out a form
•(Note: You must be a Collectors Club member to submit cards to PSA. If you are not yet a member, click here to join)
•Send your cards with a check or credit card number to PSA using the shipping instructions on the submission form
Tallboys, Supersized, Thicker Memorabilia/Patch Cards, Coins & Pins must be submitted on separate submission forms with their own return shipping. Raw cards, Crossovers and Reviews must be submitted on separate submission forms with their own return shipping
Your order must be postmarked by May 31, 2010 so act now!
are sending anything in for this?
<< <i>Mike,
are sending anything in for this? >>
Dan,
Probably not, I will though be sending in a group sub in late June or so, see my thread if you want in. Same price as "special" but I can send cards valued up to $500.00 not just $150.00.
Mike
I just checked your group sub page, I'm looking for the blue flip. Is that something I can have done with your group sub or is it for the Red only?
Dan
<< <i>Mike,
I just checked your group sub page, I'm looking for the blue flip. Is that something I can have done with your group sub or is it for the Red only?
Dan >>
Dan, no, mine is red flip only as is this special.
Take care,
Mike
Thanks,
Dan
Thats a pretty nice deal...
<< <i>.......As a reminder, the submitter can choose to have the card graded by PSA or simply encapsulated and labeled "Authentic" - please be sure to mark the submission form accordingly........ >>
If you chose "simply encapsulated and labeled Authentic", then wouldn't that be blue flip?
I'm not stating a fact, just asking a question.
<< <i>An excerpt from the special:
<< <i>.......As a reminder, the submitter can choose to have the card graded by PSA or simply encapsulated and labeled "Authentic" - please be sure to mark the submission form accordingly........ >>
If you chose "simply encapsulated and labeled Authentic", then wouldn't that be blue flip?
I'm not stating a fact, just asking a question. >>
Nam,
I'm pretty sure they will be like this one of mine pictured below, as this "special" is on their regular $20 autographed card service through the PSA side, and not the PSA/DNA side where the authentication fees are determined by who the signer is, IE, they all aren't $20, it varies:
Mike
<< <i>Mike, doesn't it say the card itself will be graded also besides the autograph being authenticated? Wouldn't this mean that the card would have a numerical grade? You know alot more about this than I do. I am just wondering. Thanks, Tony >>
Tony,
There will be a couple check boxes on the submission form. One of them will be something along the lines of "With card grade", and the other will be something along the lines of "Authentic only". You have an option of which one to check when you fill out the submission form.
Mike
<< <i>Thanks Mike, I've never sent in for an autographed card. Wouldn't the autographed card be more valueable if it had a numerical grade? Especially, if it was a 48 Leaf football rookie card. >>
Trapperlad, that's a very tough question to address as it depends on several variables.
It really depends on what you are planning on doing with the card, what the issue is and what might be the grade of the card.
For my own collecting purposes and just in case I get duplicates I want to sell:
I started out getting all of mine red flip slabbed, authentic only with no number grade for the card. However, I've changed my mind to red flip slabbed, with grade of the card for the following reason:
I've found that when I'm ready to upgrade one of my cards, and want to sell or trade one of my duplicates, a lot of potential buyers always wonder if there is something "wrong" with the card and why it doesn't have a number grade.
Personally, I generally don't care for the blue flip slabbed cards with an autograph grade unless they are already in that format. For two reasons:
1) there is no opinion in most cases as to the authenticity or originality of the card (the card, not the graph)
2) The condition of an improperly (and even a properly) stored autograph can change in a quick period of time. A 10 can become a 6 relatively quickly due to light factors.
For selling purposes only to maximize "value": becomes highly variable. If you have an average looking card, but a mint autograph, go with the blue-flipped with autograph grade. A lot of people seem to have an unusual love for a graph graded a 9 or 10 and will pay more for those than just one slabbed authentic. An autograph grade of 9 or 10 is actually quite easy to get as opposed to a card grading a 9 or 10, but people don't seem to pay attention to that observation and will pay a premium for them. If PSA/DNA was as tight with graph grades as they are with card grades, it wouldn't be so easy to get, but the reality is, it is.
If you have a 6-10 quality card older than 1972 or so (just an arbitrary year I picked, no real basis for my pick), then get the red flipped card graded one. People can judge the quality of a graph a lot better with their own eyes than they can the quality of the card. If you have a nice example of a commonly counterfeited, commonly doctored, card, then get it red flipped card graded
If you have a nice, eye appealing vintage card that has a small technical flaw that would kill the card grade (like a very small paper loss on the back, then have it either blue flipped with auto grade, or red flipped authentic with no card grade (be sure and disclose the flaw when you sale though).
Like I indicated, really just depends on the individual card and graph and what your end goal is.
I'm sorry if that's not a definitive answer, and I am by no stretch an authority on the subject, just my opinion from my limited experience.
Mike