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Which company's FSBs sell for more?

mcarney1173mcarney1173 Posts: 927 ✭✭✭✭✭
I want to start a 1939-1945 FSB Mercury Dime Set (minus the 1945 P) and some coins I have are ANACS, while others I plan on buying raw. If I was to join either NGC or PCGS:

Which company is stricter in their FSB grading?

and

Does a PCGS or NGC FSB Merc sell for more?

Comments

  • PCGS coins usually demand a premium over NGC coins. I don't know if one is tougher with the designation,
    but designations are over rated and virtually useless anway. Just buy nice well struck coins that are solid
    for the grade regardless of designation.
  • FairlanemanFairlaneman Posts: 10,426 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Years ago NGC was stricter with the FB designation while PCGS was stricter with overall grading. Now I have no clue because NGC mercs are no longer purchased because of getting too many coins that were, in my opinion, not up to snuff for the grade given. I believe you will receive more money for a like graded coin if it is in PCGS plastic.

    Have fun with your new adventure. Buying raw, either toned or white, and submitting yourself is very doable at a quite cheap price if you take your time and watch pricing.

    Ken
  • mcarney1173mcarney1173 Posts: 927 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks for the advice so far. Why is the 1945 so much in FSB. It's mintage is 100 million!


  • << <i>Thanks for the advice so far. Why is the 1945 so much in FSB. It's mintage is 100 million! >>


    Very low pop coin. They are often poorly struck and rarely found with FSB.
    Did I mention that designations are meaningless and over rated?
  • fcloudfcloud Posts: 12,133 ✭✭✭✭
    The 1945 fully struck in Full Bands is an anomaly. Like you said they minted millions, but the full bands--not.

    Don't worry about who's plastic they are in, look at the coin and buy the coin on its merits. Be open minded and don't fall into the trap I fell into early... I was one of those "it has to be white" thinkers. What you find out pretty quick is many of those white coins were dipped and that is why they are white.

    Simply go for the best quality you can afford. Also look at the coin and if you like it most likely others will, too; however, if you think they are ugly, so will others. Don't settle for something you don't like or you will just be replacing it later on...

    Many years ago I would have said NGC was stricter on the bands because all three sets had to be split. PCGS just looks at the center bands. Both companies are reputable and it simply comes down to your choice. Some would say I'm a Kool-Aid drinker on this, but it seems PCGS graded coins many times will be easier to sell and will sell a bit higher.

    President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay

  • DIMEMANDIMEMAN Posts: 22,403 ✭✭✭✭✭


    What Ken and Tony said. And bands are over rated and verrrrrrrrrrrry expensive on some issues!
  • SoCalBigMarkSoCalBigMark Posts: 2,800 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It was my experiance on rattler slabs that FSB on Mercurys was much easier back then.
  • orevilleoreville Posts: 12,138 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I do not agree that FSB (or FB) are overrated. In fact, when I converse and discuss mercs with other mercury dime collectors they want FB's at a 10 to 1 ratio or more!

    Stick with the FB's. The only marketable post 1931 non-full band dimes are the 1942/1 dimes (which is all about the obverse) and PCGS MS-68 graded non FB dimes.

    Also stick with PCGS unless you find a very old (fatty) NGC slabbed mercury dime.



    A Collectors Universe poster since 1997!


  • << <i>I do not agree that FSB (or FB) are overrated. In fact, when I converse and discuss mercs with other mercury dime collectors they want FB's at a 10 to 1 ratio or more! >>


    To paraphrase: Kool aide is preferred 10-1 over other beverages.
  • orevilleoreville Posts: 12,138 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>To paraphrase: Kool aide is preferred 10-1 over other beverages. >>



    Exactly. Demand is much much more important than the supply.

    Do not fight what the crowd wants.

    The only way you can buy non full band dimes is to think outside the box and do what fcloud is currently doing. Buying non FB varieties. They are very interesting to collect, not too expensive but a comparatively tiny group of followers. But that could change.
    A Collectors Universe poster since 1997!
  • FairlanemanFairlaneman Posts: 10,426 ✭✭✭✭✭
    "In fact, when I converse and discuss mercs with other mercury dime collectors they want FB's at a 10 to 1 ratio or more!"

    Oreville make that a 9 to 2 ratio......image. I am sort of in the same camp as Jon when it comes to FB. Through the years I have sought nicely struck coins that do not have to show the full split. Money has limited the search for mercs but I am not so sure if I was loaded FB coins would be purchased anyway. IMO there is just way too much hype and money thrown at a very limited part of the coin. For some of the dates there is no reason not to go with FB coins, such as what the OP is doing, but within the whole series some very big reasons come to mind.

    Ken
  • DeepCoinDeepCoin Posts: 2,781 ✭✭✭
    A number of years ago I specialized in Mercs without full bands. Why, because I could actually afford MS67 coins and an occasional 68. The FSB designation becomes very expensive. The lack of a full strike to the bands saved me a lot of money and at the end of the day when I sold I made out well as I like to believe I only bought PQ coins.

    One last comment, about 5 years ago when I had my set, the common thinking was that NGC was a full point more liberal in grading. That is VERY important when buying 68s. I have not followed the grading over the past few years for this series, but I suspect there are still a lot of coins where that spread is still applicable.

    The key is seeing lots of coins and learning to grade for yourself. It takes a while and of course I would only buy PCGS or coins I would crack out and send into PCGS as that will protect your market value for the coin the best. I have nothing against the other services, but when you go to sell you will generally get more money for a PCGS coin.

    This advice is worth exactly what you paid for it. Have fun and good luck with your Mercs, they are fabulous coins!!!
    Retired United States Mint guy, now working on an Everyman Type Set.
  • CocoinutCocoinut Posts: 2,515 ✭✭✭✭✭
    As was mentioned earlier, there's little reason not to go with the full bands on the common dates, where nice 65-66FB coins often run less than $100. Most collectors, however, cannot afford high grade FB coins for early dates. When assembling my set, I opted for a mixture of FB and non-FB coins for the pre-1934 dates. I have a number of early MS65 Mercs in non-FB that for me would be prohibitively expensive in FB, and I enjoy looking at them as much as any FB coins. I guess that makes me more of a collector than an investor.

    Getting back to the OP's question: I think PCGS is stricter with the numerical grade, and that alone is enough to make me prefer PCGS. I used to purchase an ocassional NGC coin through auctions or look at them at shows, and often felt the grade should have been a point lower. Not that PCGS is perfect, but their grading tends to be more in line with mine.

    Jim
    Countdown to completion of my Mercury Set: 1 coin. My growing Lincoln Set: Finally completed!
  • relicsncoinsrelicsncoins Posts: 8,103 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I find it amazing the difference in price between FB and Non FB coins. This coin in non FB is $450 and in FB is $1100 in the PCGS priceguide. I really lucked out on this piece. I purchased it on ebay with a bad photo for around $70. It came with an Anacs photo certificate graded MS65/65. This was graded I'm guessing before the FB designation. When I recieved the coin, I thought it was a minimum 65FB and sent it off to PCGS, and they confirmed it. Not a bad $70 dollar investment.

    image
    Need a Barber Half with ANACS photo certificate. If you have one for sale please PM me. Current Ebay auctions
  • FairlanemanFairlaneman Posts: 10,426 ✭✭✭✭✭
    relicsncoins your coin and one I will attach is exactly why I put the following statement in a previous post to this thread. Many raw nice mercs are still available for a very good price if you take your time and keep watching. The 23 was a ebay win for $22.50 delivered.

    "Buying raw, either toned or white, and submitting yourself is very doable at a quite cheap price if you take your time and watch pricing."

    image

    Ken
  • relicsncoinsrelicsncoins Posts: 8,103 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>relicsncoins your coin and one I will attach is exactly why I put the following statement in a previous post to this thread. Many raw nice mercs are still available for a very good price if you take your time and keep watching. The 23 was a ebay win for $22.50 delivered.

    "Buying raw, either toned or white, and submitting yourself is very doable at a quite cheap price if you take your time and watch pricing."

    image

    Ken >>



    Nice 23 Ken!!
    Need a Barber Half with ANACS photo certificate. If you have one for sale please PM me. Current Ebay auctions
  • 19Lyds19Lyds Posts: 26,492 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i> I don't know if one is tougher with the designation, but designations are over rated and virtually useless anway. >>




    << <i> Did I mention that designations are meaningless and over rated? >>




    << <i>

    << <i>I do not agree that FSB (or FB) are overrated. In fact, when I converse and discuss mercs with other mercury dime collectors they want FB's at a 10 to 1 ratio or more! >>


    To paraphrase: Kool aide is preferred 10-1 over other beverages. >>


    Why do you keep saying this?

    The OP stated what HE was looking for.
    I decided to change calling the bathroom the John and renamed it the Jim. I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.



    The name is LEE!

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