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Advice for submitting an entire set...


I am about 90% the way finished with a Topps 1970 baseball set I have been working on since....well, 1970.

Of course, being *my* baby, I think it can compete against the big boys (well, maybe not the BIGGEST boys) in the registry.

My question: what is the best way to get a whole set graded if that is your ultimate goal? Assume I am in no hurry. If it takes 10 years to get it graded (if that is the way to do it), I've got the time. Do I send the whole set in at once, do I do it piecemeal taking advantage of the specials? Do I mix other cards in when I do the submissions?

I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has experience doing this.

Also, any insight on the nuances of how Topps 1970 baseball are graded (especially when it comes to focus and coloring..you can go blind looking at those cards) would be appreciated as well.

Comments

  • KbKardsKbKards Posts: 1,782 ✭✭✭
    Before submitting anything, buy some of the 10% of the set you need in PSA 8 holders. Then compare your cards with the cards in the PSA holders. If they look as nice or nicer then send them in.
  • jradke4jradke4 Posts: 3,573 ✭✭✭
    well if you have the $$$ you might be able to cut your own special rate for the whole set, or in monthly installments like the larger submitters do.

    not sure if anyone here knows the specifics on the rates. but a call to carol would be my first stop. it is when i want to send in around 200 cards. with that amount i can always get the lowest special rate at any time of year. with what 600 cards you might be able to do better than that.
    Packers Fan for Life
    Collecting:
    Brett Favre Master Set
    Favre Ticket Stubs
    Favre TD Reciever Autos
    Football HOF Player/etc. Auto Set
    Football HOF Rc's
  • jradke4jradke4 Posts: 3,573 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Before submitting anything, buy some of the 10% of the set you need in PSA 8 holders. Then compare your cards with the cards in the PSA holders. If they look as nice or nicer then send them in. >>



    this is a good idea.
    Packers Fan for Life
    Collecting:
    Brett Favre Master Set
    Favre Ticket Stubs
    Favre TD Reciever Autos
    Football HOF Player/etc. Auto Set
    Football HOF Rc's
  • divecchiadivecchia Posts: 6,636 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'll start with aimage to the boards...

    First off decide why you want to grade the cards. If you're grading the cards just to protect your cherished collection or just to register them no matter what the grades then call for the best deal as far as pricing and just send them all in together. If you are grading the cards and want to compete with fellow registry members for top spots for that set then I would do what the others have said and buy a few graded examples of the cards you're missing to see how your cards compare before sending them in. If you have not purchased many graded cards you may be surprised at how hard it is to get cards that will grade an 8 or higher.

    Good luck with completing your set...image

    Donato
    Hobbyist & Collector (not an investor).
    Donato's Complete US Type Set ---- Donato's Dansco 7070 Modified Type Set ---- Donato's Basic U.S. Coin Design Set

    Successful transactions: Shrub68 (Jim), MWallace (Mike)
  • jeffcbayjeffcbay Posts: 8,949 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Before submitting anything, buy some of the 10% of the set you need in PSA 8 holders. Then compare your cards with the cards in the PSA holders. If they look as nice or nicer then send them in. >>



    This is very good advice, especially if you've never sent cards in before. For a grading newbie, your grades can very easily come back 2 or 3 points lower than you might expect. Good luck, and welcome to the boards!
  • Mickey71Mickey71 Posts: 4,252 ✭✭✭✭
    Not to sound negative; but are commons that would grade an 8 even worth grading from this set? But for the OP he should do what he wants especially if this is a set that has alot of sentimental value to him.

    No matter what....I would call PSA and cut a deal on the entire thing to be graded. They should be able to do like $3 a card. There are no pricey cards in the entire set except a few.

    Good luck with your grades. Post a few scans of the raw cards.

    Mickey71


  • << <i>Before submitting anything, buy some of the 10% of the set you need in PSA 8 holders. Then compare your cards with the cards in the PSA holders. If they look as nice or nicer then send them in. >>



    This is great advice, I am glad you posted it. I will certainly follow it.

    I've been psychotic about filling in the set with cards that were centered front and back, with four sharp corners. It is the spottiness, blurriness and washed out colors I worry about. I don't seem to have a good eye for that, especially with cards from that year.

    But I will fill in some of the missing ones with already graded ones and see if I can get better at it. Thanks!
  • mojorobmojorob Posts: 392 ✭✭
    Post up half a dozen jpegs of representive cards on the thread, and we can easily give you an idea.

    Quite honestly, your two biggest concerns .......crystal sharp registration and the bright color of your cards means little
    as far as the ultimate grade you will receive.
  • BrickBrick Posts: 4,981 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Hi, hello, how are ya? image
    Collecting 1960 Topps Baseball in PSA 8
    http://www.unisquare.com/store/brick/

    Ralph

  • StatmanStatman Posts: 597 ✭✭✭
    Great advice from all the people above. Definitely post some pics here if you can - you'll get some good opinions.

    You should be able to get a geat deal if you submitted it all at one time. Although I agree that a lot of commons in PSA 8 could be bought for the grading price. I would submit what you think are 10 or 20 of the BEST condition cards as a trial to see what kinds of grades you get back and that might make your decision easier.
  • cougar701cougar701 Posts: 544 ✭✭✭
    Sadly, even buying raw 1970 topps commons in Nm-Mt is semi expensive...it always baffles me when someone has one graded NM-MT for sale it goes unsold until it comes down to like $2 before the bidding starts. Like grading is free or something.

    Anyway, great advice you have been given on buying a few NM-MT and comparing yours
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