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Coin guy with a question

tydyetydye Posts: 3,894 ✭✭✭
in Trading Cards & Memorabilia Forum
I collected cards back in the late 80s, early 90s prior to grading. Was thinking about maybe putting a set together. I saw some PSA graded cards at the farmers market the other day. It dawned on me that cards fade in the sun but these were graded. How can PSA guarantee the grade? Is there some type of UV protection?

Anyway I was thinking about my birth year 1970 - how tuff is that one?

Comments

  • GriffinsGriffins Posts: 6,076 ✭✭✭
    PSA will not guarantee about fading or cracking (in the case of Kellogg's and Topps 3d cards). There is no UV protection in the holder.
    '70 Topps is pretty easy- it's not a very popular set compared to others of the same era, and not as tough to find in higher condition.
    You'll probably want to buy them already graded rather than submitting yourself- it will be a lot less expensive. No super high dollar cards.

    Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's

  • tydyetydye Posts: 3,894 ✭✭✭
    Thanks for the info.
  • MeteoriteGuyMeteoriteGuy Posts: 7,140 ✭✭
    No coin dealer/grader could guarantee the grade of a coin if you did something to damage it.
    Collecting PSA graded Steve Young, Marcus Allen, Bret Saberhagen and 1980s Topps Cards.
    Raw: Tony Gonzalez (low #'d cards, and especially 1/1's) and Steve Young.
  • tydyetydye Posts: 3,894 ✭✭✭
    But a coin is not easily damaged in the holder and in most cases it would be readily apparent if tampered with. On a card how do I know if the fading occurred before or after the grading?
  • hammeredhammered Posts: 2,671 ✭✭✭
    If he's had it sitting out in sunlight on display for 10 years, I'm certain the fading happened post-grading. You'll just have to pass on that one. Whatever he's got, you can pick up non-faded on ebay.
    '70 is a great choice for a set. Try putting it together in all PSA 8. Griffins was right - still relatively cheap (and undervalued in my opinion). Most common 8s will cost you less than the price of a grading fee.
  • MeteoriteGuyMeteoriteGuy Posts: 7,140 ✭✭
    " On a card how do I know if the fading occurred before or after the grading?"

    Not sure that really matters. If the card is faded it is faded. I would personally pass on such examples. Does not matter to me the timeline of the card. Take a coin, if a MS60 graded quarter had a little tarnish over Washington's head...it doesn't really matter when it happened.
    Collecting PSA graded Steve Young, Marcus Allen, Bret Saberhagen and 1980s Topps Cards.
    Raw: Tony Gonzalez (low #'d cards, and especially 1/1's) and Steve Young.
  • diamondmandiamondman Posts: 2,020


    << <i>But a coin is not easily damaged in the holder and in most cases it would be readily apparent if tampered with. On a card how do I know if the fading occurred before or after the grading? >>



    as some coin collectors/dealers say buy the coin not the grade, same goes for the cards buy the card not the grade.
    On the fading no way to really tell when it happened, it just pays to be familiar with the series of cards or card that you are buying
    and compare and make your own decision.

    PSA doesn't have the same guarantees that PCGS has on coins. they do guarantee some things , sort of like PCGS does or did concerning copper toning after being graded.

    Also remember there are fake PSA slabs, just like there are fake PCGS slabs.

    Hope this helps a little.
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