Liberty Nickel Registry Set Collectors

erwindoc

I have been a modern collector for a long time and I wanted to start a classic set worthy of the registry. I have been mulling this question over for weeks and finally getting it down to two series. I have always liked Liberty Nickels and I think I am leaning towards a registry set cause there are no color designations to worry with or strike designations to drive the price through the roof.

Would any of you more advanced collectors in the series be willing to share tips and pitfalls to help before I jump in? I have been through both the Q. David Bowers book and the Peters and Mohon book on the series and learned as much as I can.

speety

1) Don't be in a hurry to buy a coin, almost all dates in this series is available in almost all grades at most major shows, be patient.

2) Don't settle for a coin with subpar strike. Look at the stars, Liberty's hair, and the left corn stalk. If they are not full enough for your liking, wait for one that is.

Now for a question for you, what grade are you thinking of going after?

erwindoc

Thanks for the advice. I am not in a hurry for this series and those are the criteria I have been using when I look at other coins.

As far as grades go, I think I could finish the set in MS64. I could probably throw a couple of MS65's in the mix if I am patient enough and save up enough money but there is a rather steep price curve going from MS64 to MS65 and sometimes I wonder if its worth it. I am sure that I could find some 64's that look as nice as MS65's. The curve is even steeper going to MS66. I was going to try and get the 1883NC in MS66 since it is cheap compared to the other years in MS66(as cheap as some MS64's).

Unknown

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bolivarshagnasty

erwindoc, I too think it is a great series. I would worry about the strike and overall appeal of the nickel. Not so much about whether it is a 64 or 65.
I am collecting early Lincolns that way. A 64 bn is ok if it is an exceptional strike and has no detracting features. I'm buying Lincolns that I think will be
sought after by collectors in the future. Do you live in East Tennessee? Do you attend the Tennessee State show in Chattanooga? Shag

erwindoc

When I start the set, eye appeal will be one of the most important things, if not the most important thing. Nothing against the PCGS Registry, and I am sure I will have several PCGS coins in my set,but I would really love to throw in a couple of NGC stars, since those coins have already been designated for there exceptional eye appeal.

Location...I live about as far east in the Volunteer state as you can get without being in North Carolina. I have never been to the state show in Chattanooga, but would love to attend at some point in the future. When is it this year?

speety

The MS64 grade is the best price point in the series imho. Both DRDDM (dave) and I have put together sets in this grade, with the 83 N/C in a higher grade. My set currently is actually nearly a complete double set in MS64 with triples and quadruples of some dates. If you can't tell, I am quite fond of this series.

If you have any questions regarding specific coins or dates, don't hesitate to PM me a question. I'm sure Dave will be just a willing to help if he can be of assistance.

dsessom

Speety is a real expert in this series and helped me quite a bit when I put a set together last year. I had to sell off most of that set, and have since been concentrating on a US type set, but I have been mulling another Liberty nickel set. If you really want a challenge, and also save a little money as well, try to assemble a top notch AU58 set! This has been what I am seriously considering because I already have a few that I submitted expecting 64's and came back AU58. LOL

How you been doing, Speety?



Edited to add a few pics.

bolivarshagnasty

erwindoc, The Tenn. State show is March 5-7 at Camp Jordan Arena in Chattanooga. It's a 75 to 100 table show. There is also a show coming up in Knoxville. It is Fri./ Sat. Feb. 5th and 6th. Call Don Rhodes for info. on location at 865-806-9320. Shag

speety

<< <i>This has been what I am seriously considering because I already have a few that I submitted expecting 64's and came back AU58. LOL

How you been doing, Speety? >>



Ummmm I know that feeling lmao

School is killing me! Kids aren't meant to take 20+ credit hours every fricken quarter

But it's my birthday and I just had some Red Lobster so no complaining...

dsessom

Oh man! I love Red Lobster. I have the rock lobster tail and sometime a steak as well, depending how hungry I am.

But to keep my post on topic, erwindoc, I do believe the Liberty nickel series is a great set to work on for some of the reasons you mentioned like lack of mint marks (except 1912) and they are plentiful. One thing I learned is that ANY Liberty nickel that is blast white has been cleaned at some point. If you want truly original coins, these will have an amber tint to them at least, if not other colors, but a light golden tint is common. The blast white coins, although likely dipped at some point, are not devalued because of it unless the luster is damaged.

To illustrate what Speety was talking about as far as strike, see the 1900 below. I sold this coin last year, and really wished I had kept it. This is THE hardest strike I have personally seen on any Liberty nickel. Every detail is present and bold. Pay special attention to Liberty's hair near the tierra, the stars, and the left corn cob on the reverse.

erwindoc

Its a very nice nickel. I cant wait to get started on the series! Where is the first places to show wear on the obverse and reverse?

dsessom

Usually, on the obverse, you will first see wear on the hear limmediately above Liberty's ear. On the reverse, the first traces or wear will be on the knot in the bow or on the V itself.

Here is that 1901 raw before I sent it to be graded. I honestly thought it was easily MS64 at the time, but if you look at it closely, you can see the tiniest amount of rub on the knot on the reverse - something that would be SO easy to miss. (I did!) And they may have knocked it down to a 58 because of the little bit of oxidation spots on the reverse, I honestly don't know.
I don't see any wear on the obverse. Also, look at the corn cob on the reverse. It is NOT a full strike. It's slightly weak.

EdDcuni

This nickel is better than a 58. I agree with you that it may not be the fullest of strike on the corn, but, unless there is some rub not showing up in the photo, it looks uncirculated.

speety

<< <i>Usually, on the obverse, you will first see wear on the hear limmediately above Liberty's ear. On the reverse, the first traces or wear will be on the knot in the bow or on the V itself. >>



The other place to look is the hair above Liberty's forehead.

As for the 1900, I think this date came hammered! By far the finest striking characteristics of any date with the possible exception of the 1892 imho. Our finest struck coin is also the 1900, although our 1885 PCGS, 1895, and 1912-D in MS66 can give it a run for its money... but none of our 4 1892 nickels are weakly struck!

coffeyce

Wanted to know if this one is worth sending in to be slabbed for a set.

Chris

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo106/coffeyce/P1010051.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo106/coffeyce/P1010050.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo106/coffeyce/P1010052.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo106/coffeyce/P1010053.jpg

speety

Chris,

I can't really tell too much from the pictures, it looks like it should grade MS something but the coin appears to be pretty badly spotted. I don't think it'd bring too much of a premium if slabbed, I'd probably leave it raw. There are just so many MS 1883 no cent nickels that it'd have to grade MS-65 or so to recover slabbing costs when selling over just selling raw.

Mark

speety

For those wondering what a "full strike" looks like... well this is just about it...

erwindoc

That is one sharply struck Liberty Nickel!!! What does it grade?

speety

It's an MS-64

erwindoc

Very nice and frosty! Let me know if it needs a new home!