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Grading UK Decimal Coins

I recently bought a few uncirculated mint sets(non-proof) for my collection from the UK. These were the first uncirculated UK coins I have ever seen and I was very impressed by the coins. Nearly all of them had proof-like surfaces and a couple almost had just a hint of cameo-like contrast difference between the fields and the centerpoint of the coin. Here are my questions: is this typical for UK mint sets? I saw nearly no contact marks anywhere but rare places in the fields. Where are the major points of UK coins on the reverse that contact marks are a big negative toward grading? Are these worth sending in for submission? Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me.

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  • << <i>I recently bought a few uncirculated mint sets(non-proof) for my collection from the UK. These were the first uncirculated UK coins I have ever seen and I was very impressed by the coins. Nearly all of them had proof-like surfaces and a couple almost had just a hint of cameo-like contrast difference between the fields and the centerpoint of the coin. Here are my questions: is this typical for UK mint sets? I saw nearly no contact marks anywhere but rare places in the fields. Where are the major points of UK coins on the reverse that contact marks are a big negative toward grading? Are these worth sending in for submission? Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me. >>



    The uncirculated mint sets are not representative of the coins in circulation. They have received special treatment when both minted and assembled into the sets.
    Gary
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,731 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    The uncirculated mint sets are not representative of the coins in circulation. They have received special treatment when both minted and assembled into the sets.
    >>




    Almost all world mint sets for the last few decades contain coins that are more carefully
    made and handled. Rarely is there some process involved which positively identifies
    them as being specially made. The coins are simply like the very finest coins made for
    circulation. Even in the US where coin standards are much lower there are a few vir-
    tually perfect and PL coins made for circulation each year.
    tempus fugit extra philosophiam.
  • A general description of British Coin Grading from COLLECTORS’ COINS GREAT BRITAIN 2008:

    AN INTRODUCTION TO BRITISH COIN GRADING
    The columns containing the market values in this book are headed by 2-4 Standard
    British coin grade names. Even novice coin collectors will probably realise that
    coins that are in better than average condition are always worth more than coins
    that have seen lots of circulation. Grading coins accurately takes a lot of experience
    in looking at the same types of coins, but, just as a rough idea this is what
    the grade columns stand for and mean:
    F = Fine: Fine coins show considerable wear to all raised surfaces. Some detail
    should be visible on the designs and some of the main hair volume should be visible
    on the Monarch’s head. Not individual strands, but maybe a parting or signs
    of head-dress. Many of the coins in your pocket even after just 30 years or less of
    normal use would probably be Fine or less.
    VF = Very Fine: A coin with some wear to the highest areas of the design but
    which has seen limited circulation. More hair detail is evident and also detail on the
    other designs. Just as an average guide a coin that has been in normal circulation
    for approximately 5 years may qualify for VF status.
    EF = Extremely Fine: A coin with little sign of being circulated. There may be only
    the slightest wear to the highest areas and minimal scratches and other marks.
    Often some of the mint lustre is visible on coins of this grade. As a rough idea a
    coin in your change would probably be an EF if it had been lucky and was minted
    just 1 year ago.
    UNC = Uncirculated: Like the name suggests, the coin should be as it left the mint
    with no signs of circulation or wear. Not necessarily perfect though, because coins
    can pick up scratches and what are known as ‘bag marks’ during mass production
    and contact with other coins at the mint. The coin should have most of its lustre
    present and some dealers may expect 100% lustre on coins stated as Uncirculated.
    An Uncirculated coin would be given to you in your change from a freshly opened
    bag of new coins. So, as you can imagine, Uncirculated coins that are 30, 60 or
    even 200 years old, are often pretty rare, and very collectable, hence the higher
    prices for coins in this grade.
    BU = Brilliant Uncirculated: BU is not really an official grade but is increasingly
    used to refer to an Uncirculated coin with full mint lustre. Such coins are also
    allowed to exhibit minor signs of mass production.

    You may also see some other grades referred to in this book: FDC: Generally only
    used when talking about special proof strikings, and it means absolutely perfect in
    every way. Fair/Good: Heavily worn, but with clear writing and being identifiable.
    Only very rare ‘Fair/Good’ coins have any value.
    As well as the basic grades listed on this page, collectors will often encounter
    grades like ‘GVF’ for example. This indicates the coin is not exactly a ‘VF’ (Very
    Fine). In fact the ‘G’ stands for ‘Good’ so a GVF coin would be better that VF but
    not quite EF. ‘N’ stands for ‘Near’ and ‘A’ for ‘About’. So, the range between VF and
    EF for example looks like this: VF, GVF, NEF, AEF, EF.
    Brad Swain

    World Coin & PM Collector
    My Coin Info Pages <> My All Experts Profile
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