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Ike challange: Can you tell whether a 1976 Ike is type 1 or 2 from looking at the obverse only? How

This would be a fun challenge. I bet it is possible for those of you who have looked through enough Ikes. I don't have any raw Ikes right now to try this with, but maybe someday...

Comments

  • wondercoinwondercoin Posts: 16,987 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think I can successfully do it on the proof coins 9/10 times by looking at the obverses. I'll wager the beers to anyone who wants to bring (10) random coins down here at the next Long Beach show!

    Wondercoin
    Please visit my website at www.wondercoins.com and my ebay auctions under my user name www.wondercoin.com.
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  • coinbufcoinbuf Posts: 11,681 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'm just a copper guy so I certainly cannot, perhaps cladking?image
    My Lincoln Registry
    My Collection of Old Holders

    Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
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  • << <i>I was walking to the grocery store the other day... and saw from standing upright, a penny on the ground that was still mostly bright red, and I thought "I bet that's a 1985". I picked it up, looked at the date... and 1985! Some years just have a unique look to it. >>



    I agree. Just like when you get that really brown Lincoln in change and it has that look of a wheaty. Your almost positive it is. You flip it over and yup there it is....the memorial on the reverse. Then you turn it to the obverse and sure enough 1959.
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,702 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I'm just a copper guy so I certainly cannot, perhaps cladking?image >>




    It's pretty easy to spot a type I from a type II from ten feet away. image

    I'm still looking for a mule.
    Tempus fugit.
  • The 1976 type 1 and 2 are easy to distinguish from the obverse only.

    The 1972 type 2 was made from two different pairs of obverse and reverse dies. There are obverse die marker sufficient to identify each one of these, but I don't recomment hunting for T 2's this way. ANACS has an article on them which is also on the Ike web page.

    http://www.anacs.com/contentPages/ShowArticle.aspx?ID=51
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,702 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>The 1976 type 1 and 2 are easy to distinguish from the obverse only.

    The 1972 type 2 was made from two different pairs of obverse and reverse dies. There are obverse die marker sufficient to identify each one of these, but I don't recomment hunting for T 2's this way. ANACS has an article on them which is also on the Ike web page.

    http://www.anacs.com/contentPages/ShowArticle.aspx?ID=51 >>






    This (link) wouldn't work for many circulated examples would it?








    Tempus fugit.
  • "With multiple examples to base comparisons on, I was able to identify several die markers that should be visible in the most commonly encountered grades and in virtually any stage of this ‘March’ marriage."

    John Roberts was confident that he could usually identify any March marriage. HOWEVER, I don't know what happens if we tie his hands and say use the obverse only.
  • sumduncesumdunce Posts: 1,247 ✭✭✭✭
    I would say yes.

    And I have looked at a few Ikes. image

    V/R



    S
  • 19Lyds19Lyds Posts: 26,492 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>The 1972 type 2 was made from two different pairs of obverse and reverse dies. There are obverse die marker sufficient to identify each one of these, but I don't recomment hunting for T 2's this way. ANACS has an article on them which is also on the Ike web page.

    http://www.anacs.com/contentPages/ShowArticle.aspx?ID=51 >>



    That addresses the Type 2's Herb but does it also address Type 1's and Type 3's?
    I decided to change calling the bathroom the John and renamed it the Jim. I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.



    The name is LEE!
  • OverdateOverdate Posts: 7,106 ✭✭✭✭✭
    >>Can you tell whether a 1976 Ike is type 1 or 2 from looking at the obverse only?<<

    If it's 40% silver I can tell every time! image

    My Adolph A. Weinman signature :)

  • ponderitponderit Posts: 1,544 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>I was walking to the grocery store the other day... and saw from standing upright, a penny on the ground that was still mostly bright red, and I thought "I bet that's a 1985". I picked it up, looked at the date... and 1985! Some years just have a unique look to it. >>



    I agree. Just like when you get that really brown Lincoln in change and it has that look of a wheaty. Your almost positive it is. You flip it over and yup there it is....the memorial on the reverse. Then you turn it to the obverse and sure enough 1959. >>



    On the 1976 Ikes, no way I could tell, but on wheats and some years of Lincolns, absolutely. I really miss the days after clad came in but silver was still around and you could hear the sound when your change got handed to you.... no mistaking the ping silver makes...
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  • GandyjaiGandyjai Posts: 1,380 ✭✭
    <<This (link) wouldn't work for many circulated examples would it?>>

    Probably not the obverse markers John talks about, but the larger markers would be still visible
    on circulated examples....most notably the "strength" of the LI, which is pretty weak on many of the "August"
    issue examples due to grease-filled die in that area. Then there is also a TH on roughly half of the "August"
    ones that is fairly easy to spot.

    Brian

    I LOVE image DIVA & Error Ikes! image
  • <<That addresses the Type 2's Herb but does it also address Type 1's and Type 3's?>>

    No. But I have learned never to say never, so there might be a way.
    I used to be able to tell 1972 type 1's from type 2's by touch, but then the type 3's came out which felt like T 3's.
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,702 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    On the 1976 Ikes, no way I could tell, but on wheats and some years of Lincolns, absolutely. I really miss the days after clad came in but silver was still around and you could hear the sound when your change got handed to you.... no mistaking the ping silver makes... >>



    There are a lot of differences on the obverses of the '76 type I and type II
    Ikes. On most examples any of these will prove sufficient but there's one
    that will work on all of them. The type II has a deep gouge midway between
    the ear and the upper truncation of the neck which runs down toward the
    lower truncation.
    Tempus fugit.

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