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Question for Large Cent collectors

WaterSportWaterSport Posts: 6,883 ✭✭✭✭✭
Ok, here is the goal. I have all the Lincoln's slabbed in an MS set and my son has all the Indians slabbed in a circulated set. Next we want to slab his circulated Large cents with the goal of having every cent up through 1810 at this time. My question is NOT about whether or not such a low end Large collection is worth slabbing, as I believe it is since it helps preserves the coins, will add to a larger already slabbed collection my son and I will share. Rather, is it worth the extra cost to get Newcomb or Sheldon numbers attributed - or just get coins graded since they are not high end examples.

Thanks for your wisdom.

WS
Proud recipient of the coveted PCGS Forum "You Suck" Award Thursday July 19, 2007 11:33 PM and December 30th, 2011 at 8:50 PM.

Comments

  • BroadstruckBroadstruck Posts: 30,497 ✭✭✭✭✭
    IMHO it would be more fun and less expensive to locate Newcomb/Sheldon varieties on your own.

    It's also very important to verify each variety prior to purchase that's entombed as there are plenty of TPG label mis designations.
    To Err Is Human.... To Collect Err's Is Just Too Much Darn Tootin Fun!
  • RTSRTS Posts: 1,408
    every cent up through 1810...that is close to 300 pennies if I'm not mistaken...am I correct that that is ~ $7K in attribution fees alone...if you then do the Newcomb
    series then another $10K in attribution fees? The plus is if these are low-end coins for the lack of a better term then attribution may not be easy at a glance so
    having the Sheldon # on the plastic-case would be nice. If you have the time, patience and wherewithal to collect let's say 300 Sheldon varieties then I'd say
    the attribution is worth it in the long term.

    image
    image
  • BroadstruckBroadstruck Posts: 30,497 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>image >>



    image
    To Err Is Human.... To Collect Err's Is Just Too Much Darn Tootin Fun!
  • Walkerguy21DWalkerguy21D Posts: 11,576 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I guess I'm not sure of the question or the real goal....when you say up through 1810, do you really mean 'back to', so from 1857 back to 1810? Since you mention Newcomb and Sheldon, I think that is what you are doing, as going from 1793 up through 1810 would only be Sheldon varieties.....now, are you just doing a date set, or date and major variety set, or an all-variety set? Trying to figure out how RTS got 300 either way - must be thinking you are doing all varieties....
    What I think you are planning on doing is a date set from 1810 to 1857, then having the varieties put on the holders, whatever they happen to be, from raw coins you acquire and then submit......is this really what is going on, or have I totally misinterpreted the collection goal?
    If they aren't high end examples, and you aren't going after all varieties anyway, and as was previously stated the TPGs get the attributions wrong sometimes anyway, IMO I don't think it's worth it.....the exeption would be if you cherry a scarce variety that you attribute yourself.
    Successful BST transactions with 171 members. Ebeneezer, Tonedeaf, Shane6596, Piano1, Ikenefic, RG, PCGSPhoto, stman, Don'tTelltheWife, Boosibri, Ron1968, snowequities, VTchaser, jrt103, SurfinxHI, 78saen, bp777, FHC, RYK, JTHawaii, Opportunity, Kliao, bigtime36, skanderbeg, split37, thebigeng, acloco, Toninginthblood, OKCC, braddick, Coinflip, robcool, fastfreddie, tightbudget, DBSTrader2, nickelsciolist, relaxn, Eagle eye, soldi, silverman68, ElKevvo, sawyerjosh, Schmitz7, talkingwalnut2, konsole, sharkman987, sniocsu, comma, jesbroken, David1234, biosolar, Sullykerry, Moldnut, erwindoc, MichaelDixon, GotTheBug
  • RTSRTS Posts: 1,408
    Walkerguy21D: yes, I was thinking the question was 1793 through 1810 and for all varieties which is I think is maybe 280ish.
    image
  • WaterSportWaterSport Posts: 6,883 ✭✭✭✭✭
    And yes, its just a date set. I am not after all the varieties, etc. So I too am thinking, just get each coin graded and thats it.

    WS
    Proud recipient of the coveted PCGS Forum "You Suck" Award Thursday July 19, 2007 11:33 PM and December 30th, 2011 at 8:50 PM.
  • notwilightnotwilight Posts: 12,864 ✭✭✭


    << <i>And yes, its just a date set. I am not after all the varieties, etc. So I too am thinking, just get each coin graded and thats it.

    WS >>



    Sounds like you're putting together a nice set and the attribution is a nice touch. Are you planning to have all problem free slabs or are you ok with genuine slabs? When I thought you were putting together a full variety set (like Husak) then I thought you might have problems avoiding genuine slabs (even a few Husak cents are in genuine slabs IIRC) but if you're just doing one variety per date you can achieve your goal. However, if you're slabbing them yourself, expect some frustration as large cents can be tricky. --jerry
  • RWBRWB Posts: 8,082
    If you avoided costly and unnecessary slabbing of common-date coins, you would have much more money available to buy some nice large cents.
  • WaterSportWaterSport Posts: 6,883 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have looked them over and feel most will grade. I know that corrosion is a BIG problem for large cents (in all forms) If one turns out in a genuine holder, I can update it later. I plan on doing 5 at a time, just so I can get a "feel" for what is working and what is not.

    WS
    Proud recipient of the coveted PCGS Forum "You Suck" Award Thursday July 19, 2007 11:33 PM and December 30th, 2011 at 8:50 PM.
  • Walkerguy21DWalkerguy21D Posts: 11,576 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Sounds like a fun endeavor. I may suggest you focus on a uniform look by era - say XF coins for the later dates like 1840 to 1857, VF coins for the middle dates, and solid Fines for the Classic Head cents. I would also suggest you review the extensive auction results of Heritage and other places to help you get a 'feel' for what grades and what doesn't.
    Keep us posted and share some pics with us!
    Successful BST transactions with 171 members. Ebeneezer, Tonedeaf, Shane6596, Piano1, Ikenefic, RG, PCGSPhoto, stman, Don'tTelltheWife, Boosibri, Ron1968, snowequities, VTchaser, jrt103, SurfinxHI, 78saen, bp777, FHC, RYK, JTHawaii, Opportunity, Kliao, bigtime36, skanderbeg, split37, thebigeng, acloco, Toninginthblood, OKCC, braddick, Coinflip, robcool, fastfreddie, tightbudget, DBSTrader2, nickelsciolist, relaxn, Eagle eye, soldi, silverman68, ElKevvo, sawyerjosh, Schmitz7, talkingwalnut2, konsole, sharkman987, sniocsu, comma, jesbroken, David1234, biosolar, Sullykerry, Moldnut, erwindoc, MichaelDixon, GotTheBug
  • joecopperjoecopper Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭
    Just what is the date set
    1793-1857
    1810-1857
    1793-1810
  • WaterSportWaterSport Posts: 6,883 ✭✭✭✭✭
    2009 - 1810, and maybe an extra coin before 1810 in the future,
    WS
    Proud recipient of the coveted PCGS Forum "You Suck" Award Thursday July 19, 2007 11:33 PM and December 30th, 2011 at 8:50 PM.
  • MikeInFLMikeInFL Posts: 10,188 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Rather, is it worth the extra cost to get Newcomb or Sheldon numbers attributed - or just get coins graded since they are not high end examples. >>



    Hi, I collect large cents by date. I have not gone through the extra cost of attribution on my slabbed coins, nor would I spend extra to have them attributed (unless they were extremely rare) if/when any of them are submitted. Even today, much of my collection is raw, so take the preceding FWIW.

    Good luck on your collection, and I hope you share it with the rest of us. image

    Have fun...Mike

    image
    Collector of Large Cents, US Type, and modern pocket change.
  • joecopperjoecopper Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭
    I have to ask - why stopping at 1810?

    Basically I do not believe in slabbing copper - I do break that practice from time-to-time. Having said that, if the coins will eventually be sold at a major auction they will get slabbed anyway but I would attribute them myself as a check.

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