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Playing with DinoLite Microscope - Questions on doubled dies, etc. on some Buffalos

I really don't do a whole lot with varieties, doubled-dies, etc. so I'm out of my element. This is compounded by working with buffalo nickels, which IMO have about the mushiest details in all of U.S. coinage, even on perfect strikes.

I'm trying to figure out just what constitutes a doubled-die versus strike doubling versus other varieties, versus just strike/metal anomalies.

I found some interesting things, but they don't match anything in the Cherrypicker's guide.

Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks in advance.

1. 1935-D. Look at the base of the I and V in FIVE as well as the top of the S in CENTS. There's also something going on with the mintmark, but it doesn't look like what is shown in Cherrypicker's for the RPM (although maybe the strike on this one is mushier than the photo used in the guide).

image



2. 1937. Look at the top of the 9 and 3 in the date as well as inside the loop of the 9. See also the "shelf" beneath some of the letters in E PLURIBUS UNUM. This is an MS66, so maybe these things are due to the strike being hammered?

image

image



3. 1930. There are lots of different doubled-dies listed for 1930 in Cherrypicker's, but this doesn't seem to match them. See the right side of the 1 and the horizontal edges of the other digits in the date. On the reverse, see the top of T and side and top of S in CENTS. All sorts of stuff going on in E PLURIBUS UNUM as well.

image

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Comments

  • AUandAGAUandAG Posts: 24,820 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Great pics. Whenever you see shelves like on that '37 and '30 it's called strike doubling or
    mechanical doubling and not true doubling as in hub doubling. I think that is what I'm seeing.

    bob
    Registry: CC lowballs (boblindstrom), bobinvegas1989@yahoo.com


  • << <i>Great pics. Whenever you see shelves like on that '37 and '30 it's called strike doubling or
    mechanical doubling and not true doubling as in hub doubling. I think that is what I'm seeing.

    bob >>



    That's what I was thinking but I try to keep an open mind.

    JT
    It is health that is real wealth, not pieces of gold and silver. Gandhi.

    I collect all 20th century series except gold including those series that ended there.
  • HyperionHyperion Posts: 7,440 ✭✭✭
    I just see a crappy die. No DDO, just poorly cut in some areas, and some contact marks, I see a few in the images...

    GREAT images tho.
  • coinpicturescoinpictures Posts: 5,345 ✭✭✭
    The one thing that would make me question that is why is there no evidence of the same mechanical doubling on AMERICA, only E PLURIBUS UNUM? There's no hint of it in the same picture. image
  • HyperionHyperion Posts: 7,440 ✭✭✭
    I guess it's about the mechanics of the mechanical doubling... but on face value it's a good question.
  • tahoe98tahoe98 Posts: 11,388 ✭✭✭

    ......great shots! i'd say machine doubling too and weak strikes. NOW! what model dino-lite were you using and how do you like it?image
    "government is not reason, it is not eloquence-it is a force! like fire, it is a dangerous servant and a fearful master; never for a moment should it be left to irresponsible action." George Washington
  • tahoe98tahoe98 Posts: 11,388 ✭✭✭


    ......is this thing on?image
    "government is not reason, it is not eloquence-it is a force! like fire, it is a dangerous servant and a fearful master; never for a moment should it be left to irresponsible action." George Washington
  • koynekwestkoynekwest Posts: 10,048 ✭✭✭✭✭
    There's one legitimate hub doubled coin shown-the 1930 with the doubling at the top of the date. That one is Die #5 for the date. The rest are various problems with the die-machine doubling and/or deteriorated dies.
  • These pictures are very similar to my post in which I thought I saw doubling. Turns out it was just die deterioration & machine doubling like koynekwest said most of yours are. Congrats on the '30 doubled date though!
  • seanqseanq Posts: 8,714 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>There's one legitimate hub doubled coin shown-the 1930 with the doubling at the top of the date. That one is Die #5 for the date. The rest are various problems with the die-machine doubling and/or deteriorated dies. >>




    image I'm glad someone else noticed that DDO, and that he could attribute it. The rest are various forms of deteriorated or overpolished dies, and mechanical doubling.


    Sean Reynolds
    Incomplete planchets wanted, especially Lincoln Cents & type coins.

    "Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
  • Alright I have a question about that '30 doubled date. Was it a form of die deterioration then doubled? Clearly there is something going on at the bottom of the 3 and 9, but it has only been mentioned that the doubling is at the top of the numbers.
  • coinpicturescoinpictures Posts: 5,345 ✭✭✭
    Thanks for the information. I still find the 1935-D to be the most intriguing of the bunch, as I wonder what would cause the second "V" below the first, but nothing below CENTS. And my eyes still see something going on to the left of and inside the D mintmark.
  • koynekwestkoynekwest Posts: 10,048 ✭✭✭✭✭
    InternetJunky-The only true hub doubling is the two raised areas above the date. The rest is something else, as it isn't present on the earlier die states of this variety that I've seen. It could be what used to be known as "Die Polish Doubling."

    coinpictures-Strange things can happen to an extensively polished or a badly eroded die, including what you see on that '35-D. This date/Mint combination is common struck from bad dies.

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