Playing with DinoLite Microscope - Questions on doubled dies, etc. on some Buffalos

I really don't do a whole lot with varieties, doubled-dies, etc. so I'm out of my element. This is compounded by working with buffalo nickels, which IMO have about the mushiest details in all of U.S. coinage, even on perfect strikes.
I'm trying to figure out just what constitutes a doubled-die versus strike doubling versus other varieties, versus just strike/metal anomalies.
I found some interesting things, but they don't match anything in the Cherrypicker's guide.
Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks in advance.
1. 1935-D. Look at the base of the I and V in FIVE as well as the top of the S in CENTS. There's also something going on with the mintmark, but it doesn't look like what is shown in Cherrypicker's for the RPM (although maybe the strike on this one is mushier than the photo used in the guide).

2. 1937. Look at the top of the 9 and 3 in the date as well as inside the loop of the 9. See also the "shelf" beneath some of the letters in E PLURIBUS UNUM. This is an MS66, so maybe these things are due to the strike being hammered?


3. 1930. There are lots of different doubled-dies listed for 1930 in Cherrypicker's, but this doesn't seem to match them. See the right side of the 1 and the horizontal edges of the other digits in the date. On the reverse, see the top of T and side and top of S in CENTS. All sorts of stuff going on in E PLURIBUS UNUM as well.


I'm trying to figure out just what constitutes a doubled-die versus strike doubling versus other varieties, versus just strike/metal anomalies.
I found some interesting things, but they don't match anything in the Cherrypicker's guide.
Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks in advance.
1. 1935-D. Look at the base of the I and V in FIVE as well as the top of the S in CENTS. There's also something going on with the mintmark, but it doesn't look like what is shown in Cherrypicker's for the RPM (although maybe the strike on this one is mushier than the photo used in the guide).

2. 1937. Look at the top of the 9 and 3 in the date as well as inside the loop of the 9. See also the "shelf" beneath some of the letters in E PLURIBUS UNUM. This is an MS66, so maybe these things are due to the strike being hammered?


3. 1930. There are lots of different doubled-dies listed for 1930 in Cherrypicker's, but this doesn't seem to match them. See the right side of the 1 and the horizontal edges of the other digits in the date. On the reverse, see the top of T and side and top of S in CENTS. All sorts of stuff going on in E PLURIBUS UNUM as well.



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Comments
mechanical doubling and not true doubling as in hub doubling. I think that is what I'm seeing.
bob
<< <i>Great pics. Whenever you see shelves like on that '37 and '30 it's called strike doubling or
mechanical doubling and not true doubling as in hub doubling. I think that is what I'm seeing.
bob >>
That's what I was thinking but I try to keep an open mind.
JT
I collect all 20th century series except gold including those series that ended there.
GREAT images tho.
1/2 Cents
U.S. Revenue Stamps
......great shots! i'd say machine doubling too and weak strikes. NOW! what model dino-lite were you using and how do you like it?
......is this thing on?
<< <i>There's one legitimate hub doubled coin shown-the 1930 with the doubling at the top of the date. That one is Die #5 for the date. The rest are various problems with the die-machine doubling and/or deteriorated dies. >>
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
1/2 Cents
U.S. Revenue Stamps
coinpictures-Strange things can happen to an extensively polished or a badly eroded die, including what you see on that '35-D. This date/Mint combination is common struck from bad dies.