Error collectors: Is your sole focus finding the specific error you want/need..............

SanctionII

.......... to the exclusion of other aspects of the coin?

For example, strike, luster, marks, wear, eye appeal, originality, toning or the lack thereof, dipping, slabbed vs. raw, etc.

How important are these other factors compared to the "error" present on the coin?

For a real world scenario, take clipped planchet cents. If you collect these coins, will you acquire a clipped planchet cent regardless of the presence of negative attributes [i.e. ugly black and grey toning due to a botched dip] and/or the absence of positive attributes [i.e. EDS with a strong strike] on the coin?


Your thoughts please.

Rampage

I really depends on the coin. If a clip collector of all types (e.g. bust, seated, etc.), then I would be open to problems depending on how difficult it is to obtain an error of the type. However, if the clip is on a coin common with those errors (e.g. Lincolns, Jeffersons, Washingtons, etc.), then I would pass and way till a nicer one came along.

That being said, however, if one is a Lincoln cent clip collector, there are some dates where finding a clip error may be very difficult, in which case I might be open to some type of minor problem.

stinkinlincoln

When I buy an error, I only look at the error. Then I ask myself if its cool enough to buy. If its at the right price, its bought. That simple for me. Everything else is secondary to me. I feel that its an error, and while a choice piece might be out there, it wont be the same.
Some might say thats a bad way to buy coins, but errors are a different animal to me than regular coins.

sanitarium1inmate

Personally I try not to buy more than I can afford. Like stinkinlincoln said, I would look at the error first and if it is in my price range for the particular error then it will be mine. If it has a botched dip or cleaning then I believe it would be a bit cheaper to get. I don't buy to slab most errors, I like to keep them in a 2x2 flip, so cheap is good enough for me. I like to search through rolls of Lincolns to find errors also that I will keep in my collection. I do like clips but only own 1 that is a GW dollar coin with only a minor clip. If I did go after clips I would try to find ones that would circle the coin in a way like one would be at 12 o'clock then 1 then 2 and so forth to try and get a clip all around the coin. Once that is done then I would move on to a much stronger clip and so forth.

AskRaq

When I buy error coins, such as the 1897 MPD ("1 in neck"), I am buying for the error only... I have about a dozen low-end & problem coins (cleaned, corroded, damaged, AT, etc.) because they are cheaper & still have the error that (for some unknown reason) I am drawn to collect.

Unknown

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jmcu12

I look for the type of error first. I used to collect anything an everything but I soon realized that I had multiples of common clips, etc.

so I am in the process of selling off 'duplicates so to speak' and now when I look I look for a type of error that I dont have. Yes I am interested in types where errors are more rare, but those tend to be more expensive so I have to be realistic too.

ProofCents

I look for Errors that make you say wow thats messed up!!!

Broadstruck

Some of my error collecting friends had a hard time understanding when I sold a dipped AU55 10% O/C Morgan and downsized error wise to a MS65 5% O/C toned original skinned example.

No longer own the 21-D as it was sold to move into the 98.

Aegis3

The "error" is easily the most important issue, but I wouldn't say to the exclusion of other issues; they are merely much, much less important. But for example, I did reject a cool steel cent counterbrockage/brockage combo that was just too rusted/ugly for my tastes. OTOH, I do have some interesting errors which are scratched, bent, dipped, gashed, have counting machine damage, and so forth (not all on the same coin).

I'm sure it also depends on the type/rarity of the error also. What is acceptable in an off-center Zincoln and a struck Kennedy 40% clad layer (split before strike) will be quite different.

I also think that grades are the least important factor, especially on the micro-scale that is all too popular these days. I don't view the fineness of the grading scale typically used these days to be meaningful, and find it to be even more meaningless for error coinage, even for common types.

ctf_error_coins

The "error" is the most important aspect of error coins, then eye appeal, then grade.

That being said it always nice to have a high grade error coin if the first to points are met.

sebrown

I don't have a sole focus for collecting errors as there is a wide variety within my collection. I lean more towards errors that are off-metal or off-planchet strikes. There's something appealing about a coin intended to be struck in a specific metal composition that is mistakenly (or purposely) struck in quite another giving it a unique look. I seen you all drool over Mike Byer's IHC on a Quarter Eagle planchet so I can tell I'm not alone in my thinking! I also realize that's about as good as it gets for off-metal errors.

For me, the error has to be easily identifiable - not something that you need to pull out a loupe to see. The more unique and/or dramatic an error is, the more appealing it is. Condition is a factor on a more common error, but is less important on a truly unique or rare piece. The same goes for scratches, damage, and dipped/cleaned errors, although I would expect to pay less for a coin with such circumstances.

Lastly, I'll buy an error if I feel it's a good price and is something I can sell (flip?) at a better price. I seem to have a harder time selling stuff even though my intention was not to keep it! That's why I'd make a horrible coin dealer as I'd never want to sell anything!


edited for grammar as usual!

sebrown

<< <i>Some of my error collecting friends had a hard time understanding when I sold a dipped AU55 10% O/C Morgan and downsized error wise to a MS65 5% O/C toned original skinned example.

No longer own the 21-D as it was sold to move into the 98.



>>




Oh, that's a hard one, Broadstruck. Not saying that you didn't make the better choice, but I would've kept both!

seanq

<< <i>.......... to the exclusion of other aspects of the coin?

For example, strike, luster, marks, wear, eye appeal, originality, toning or the lack thereof, dipping, slabbed vs. raw, etc.

How important are these other factors compared to the "error" present on the coin?

For a real world scenario, take clipped planchet cents. If you collect these coins, will you acquire a clipped planchet cent regardless of the presence of negative attributes [i.e. ugly black and grey toning due to a botched dip] and/or the absence of positive attributes [i.e. EDS with a strong strike] on the coin?


Your thoughts please. >>




I meant to answer this before the weekend. I am exactly the collector you described in your hypothetical example above. First and foremost I put priority on the error. I fI need a given date for a date or type set I'm willing to overlook a lot of sins on a coin. When it comes time to "upgrade", it comes down to some combination of eye appeal and rarity. I've taken a technical downgrade in my Lincoln cent set to put a 20% clip in place of a 2% clip, but I've also done the opposite and removed a coin with a larger clip for a higher grade example.

In a perfect world my entire Lincoln set would be XF and higher with no minor rim clips or damage, but the reality is you take what you can find on the really scarce stuff. I also think this approach is not unique to error coins - I know a lot of collectors who will forgive problems on an 1877 cent that would be a deal-breaker on an 1897 cent.


Sean Reynolds

BECOKA

Not sure about errors but when it comes to die marriages if an R6 or R7 comes along all other aspects of the coin can take a hike. i.e. there are 3 or 4 varieties I am looking for where there are only 1 or 2 known examples.