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Newby in need of assistance

Due to a recent passing in the family, I have been given the responsibility of sorting out the value of a coin collection that goes back to the 1800’s. I collect sports cards and have zero experience with coins, so I wanted to see if someone could point me in the direction of a trustworthy pricing service, system, publication, etc. Note none of the coins were ever graded, so PCPS is not an option (at least it seems that way to the uninformed).

I should receive the coins within a couple of days, so I can’t provide scans as of yet. Does anyone have any recommendations as to a reputable pricing system?

Comments

  • adamlaneusadamlaneus Posts: 6,969 ✭✭✭
    If your intention is eventually selling those coins, then i'd say that PCGS should be an option for some of them. Some may bring in much more cash if authenticated in plastic versus sold raw.

    If you can provide scans of the coins, then the folks here might be able to take a shot at what might be worth slabbing and what is not worth slabbing before a sale.

  • MICHAELDIXONMICHAELDIXON Posts: 6,564 ✭✭✭✭✭
    PM sent
    Spring National Battlefield Coin Show is April 3-5, 2025 at the Eisenhower Hotel Ballroom, Gettysburg, PA. WWW.AmericasCoinShows.com
  • illini420illini420 Posts: 11,466 ✭✭✭✭✭
    First step is buy a Red Book. Less than $20 and has a wealth of information and fairly accurate pricing on all US coins. Can also post pics of what you find here and we'll try to help out.
  • PlacidPlacid Posts: 11,299 ✭✭✭
    Dont clean them up. image
  • derrybderryb Posts: 37,352 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Best indicator of what people are paying is a search of "completed items" for each coin on ebay. Use the advanced search link from ebay to get there. Price guides are just that - guides. The true market sets the actual price and prices realized on ebay is a fair indicator. Grade is a big factor, so if coins are undgraded it'll be a guessing game unless you're a fairly good grader. Study the pics of what sold and compare coin condition with what you have. Other alternative is to have them appraised by someone you can trust.

    Capital investment depends on confidence. - Martin Armstrong

  • Thanks for all of the feedback. I will take a look at eBay as well as the Red Book recommended. I will try to post some scans in the next couple of days to see if any additional feedback can be provided.

    Derryb – isn’t the little guy in your icon from India? I think I watched a news report on him at some point. He is disturbing.
  • derrybderryb Posts: 37,352 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Thanks for all of the feedback. I will take a look at eBay as well as the Red Book recommended. I will try to post some scans in the next couple of days to see if any additional feedback can be provided.

    Derryb – isn’t the little guy in your icon from India? I think I watched a news report on him at some point. He is disturbing. >>



    I was using a picture of adamlaneus but it was more disturbing.image

    Capital investment depends on confidence. - Martin Armstrong

  • coinman420coinman420 Posts: 4,666
    as stated above if any are desirable denomination/year/mintmark/condition you may want to have them graded as they will sell for true value and more than selling raw.
    my ebay items BST transactions/swaps/giveaways with: Tiny, raycyca,mrpaseo, Dollar2007,Whatafind, Boom, packers88, DBSTrader2, 19Lyds, Mar327, pontiacinf, ElmerFusterpuck.
  • cheezhedcheezhed Posts: 5,946 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Get a list of dates, denominations, mint marks and post here for a general assessment.
    Many happy BST transactions
  • tahoe98tahoe98 Posts: 11,388 ✭✭✭



    ..............we enjoy helping and we LOVE pics!image
    "government is not reason, it is not eloquence-it is a force! like fire, it is a dangerous servant and a fearful master; never for a moment should it be left to irresponsible action." George Washington
  • Lots of good advice here. Two more things, do not sell them to anyone until you find out a general value of each coin. You may regret it later. Another thing, hold the coins by the edges when viewing, nobody likes fingerprints on coins image
  • I have worked my way through about half of the coins so far. The vast majority are half dollars from the 1930’s – 1960’s (note there are approximately (300) 1964 half dollars). I have attached a couple of pictures below for some coins which are dated from 1880 to 1924. There are additional coins which are pre 1900 which I have not had an opportunity to scan yet.

    I will try to add additional scans in the next couple of days. Feel free to provide any input.

    imageimage

    imageimage

    imageimage

    imageimage
  • Rob85635Rob85635 Posts: 1,230 ✭✭✭
    So far I don't see anything that is of really high dollar value. The barber half is probably a G8 at best. Keep the pictures coming and you will get a lot more comments. The 300 64 halves are 90% silver and worth about 9-11 x face value at melt. Very commonly collected coin so you have some nice value there.
    Rob the Newbie
  • streeterstreeter Posts: 4,312 ✭✭✭✭✭
    rob
    So far I don't see anything that is of really high dollar value. The barber half is probably a G8 at best. Keep the pictures coming and you will get a lot more comments. The 300 64 halves are 90% silver and worth about 9-11 x face value at melt. Very commonly collected coin so you have some nice value there.




    Barber half a G8?........................hmmmmmm...image
    Have a nice day
  • PerryHallPerryHall Posts: 46,570 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>rob
    So far I don't see anything that is of really high dollar value. The barber half is probably a G8 at best. Keep the pictures coming and you will get a lot more comments. The 300 64 halves are 90% silver and worth about 9-11 x face value at melt. Very commonly collected coin so you have some nice value there.




    Barber half a G8?........................hmmmmmm...image >>



    I think he meant VG4.image

    Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
    "Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
    "Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire

  • Rob85635Rob85635 Posts: 1,230 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>rob
    So far I don't see anything that is of really high dollar value. The barber half is probably a G8 at best. Keep the pictures coming and you will get a lot more comments. The 300 64 halves are 90% silver and worth about 9-11 x face value at melt. Very commonly collected coin so you have some nice value there.




    Barber half a G8?........................hmmmmmm...image >>



    I think he meant VG4.image >>



    I was being nice, I don't have coin in hand you know image
    Rob the Newbie
  • Like the one person said before get a Red Book and check some of the prices before selling them..Most of the coin dealers around will rip you off "BIG" time if they know you have no experience with coins..So check some books first for your own good and your pocket..
  • DieClashDieClash Posts: 3,688 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Like the one person said before get a Red Book and check some of the prices before selling them..Most of the coin dealers around will rip you off "BIG" time if they know you have no experience with coins..So check some books first for your own good and your pocket.. >>



    A Red Book is certainly a good start. But don't expect to get anything more than Red Book value divided by !.4! Probably lot better than any dealer will ever pay.
    "Please help us keep these boards professional and informative…. And fun." - DW
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  • JRoccoJRocco Posts: 14,277 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Like the one person said before get a Red Book and check some of the prices before selling them..Most of the coin dealers around will rip you off "BIG" time if they know you have no experience with coins..So check some books first for your own good and your pocket.. >>



    The best advantage of looking up the coins in the Red Book is to get an idea of what coins/mint marks are more "valuable" in the series vs the more common dates. The keys and semi keys are usually priced substantially higher and will help you put those aside as having a higher premium value.
    Some coins are just plain "Interesting"
  • illini420illini420 Posts: 11,466 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>Like the one person said before get a Red Book and check some of the prices before selling them..Most of the coin dealers around will rip you off "BIG" time if they know you have no experience with coins..So check some books first for your own good and your pocket.. >>



    The best advantage of looking up the coins in the Red Book is to get an idea of what coins/mint marks are more "valuable" in the series vs the more common dates. The keys and semi keys are usually priced substantially higher and will help you put those aside as having a higher premium value. >>



    Definitely agree with that. I recommended the Red Book because it's under $20 and has a wealth of information. You can roughly learn to grade pretty much any U.S. using this book and you get a decent idea of the value of the coin. Sure it's not a perfect guide as to what a dealer will pay you, but it's not that bad either.

    For example, here's my thoughts the coins you posted (using my Red Book as a reference):

    1. 1924 Peace Dollar - based on the Red Book values I can see it's one of the most common dates. in VF20 it's worth $17, in EF40 it's worth $18 and in AU50 it's worth $19. Based on the current melt value (which is also found in the back of the Red Book) it's worth at least $11 or so melted. That said, you could probably get between $10 and $19 for it depending on whether you sell it to a dealer or to a collector on eBay who really likes it.

    2. 1893 Columbian Commemorative - AU50 it's worth $17 and MS60 it's worth $30 per the Red Book (melted it's worth about $5 in silver). Based on similar looking coins I've seen at shows or on eBay, somewhere around $20 for this seems fair (unless it really is uncirculated which I can't tell from the picture, but looks AU to me).

    3. 1900 Barber Half - in G4 (the lowest shown) it's listed at $13 and looking at the coins listed, it's a very common date/mintmark. Based on the picture, this coin would be sold as 90% junk silver by most dealers I think. It seems to have problems such as some scratches and a cleaned look that would keep it from getting a solid G4 $13 price from a collector wanting this for their album. But typically Barber junk silver goes for a slight premimum to common Franklins or Kennedy Halves. A melted half is worth about $5 in silver. I'd expect to sell this coin between $5 and $8 tops if it were mine.
  • Just scanned some additional coins. I purchased a red book today, and have started to work through the coins in bit more efficient manner. I will continue to post pics as time permits.

    imageimage

    imageimage

    imageimage

    imageimage

    imageimage
  • TwoSides2aCoinTwoSides2aCoin Posts: 44,463 ✭✭✭✭✭
    thanks for sharing. Maybe you could purchase a PCGS graded example of a few of the specimens you have. Morgan in MS 62 should be of great help. Any Barber series in XF... a few specimens already graded will tell you more than you need to know, along with the Red Book. Once you understand the differences between CULL and Collectible, you can sort the collection into what's worth it, and what's not.
  • just guessing on the 1856 20 dollar gold piece : 1000.00 to 1250.00
    1900 Morgan 20 to 40
    1915-d Barber half - 6 - 8
    1921-s Morgan dollar 13-17
    1922 Peace dollar 13-17
  • RobbRobb Posts: 2,034


    << <i>image >>



    You went from small potatoes to BIG apples. Now you need to verify that it's really gold.
    imageRIP

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