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Set Building Mindset

MintacularMintacular Posts: 1,138 ✭✭✭
in PSA Set Registry Forum
I am a relative newcomer to PSA and the grading world. I do some selling on eBay mostly but am a collector first and foremost. This question will help satisfy my curiosity but also allow me to more effectively group cards when I do sell on eBay.

Anyway, I want to get inside the head of a PSA set builder and my main question is: Do set builders tend to want one grade for every card of that set, or do they tend to accept a range? For example, do most set builders want ALL PSA 7's when building these sets, or do most pick up cards from say, 6 to 8? Hope this makes sense, look forward to your comments on this topic.

Thanks! Pat

Comments

  • packmanpackman Posts: 948
    Good question. For me it depends on the difficulty in completing a set. I find that my post-WWII sets are uniform in grade because they tend to be plentiful in mid to high grade condition. Regarding pre-WWII sets, I focus on eye appeal and cost. For example, some sets have cards that range from PSA 1 - 7. It just depends on the card and difficulty in completing the set. If I tried to complete a '14 Cracker Jack set in straight PSA 4 condition, then I do not think I will ever complete it. However, by collecting the set based on eye appeal, I am not limited by a grade and, thus, more likely to complete the set. I also have sets that contain both SGC and PSA cards.

  • markj111markj111 Posts: 2,921 ✭✭✭
    I look for 8s, but get the occasional 9 or 8.5. I do not pay big dollars for low pop 8s. Some of the cards I have sent in for grading have come back as 7s; I tend not to upgrade.
  • TheVonTheVon Posts: 2,725 ✭
    My collecting goals differ for each set.

    For example, there are two sets I'm working on that I want a certain grade only, i.e. all PSA 6 for 1953 Bowman Color and all PSA 8 for 1963 Fleer. But then I am also working on some newer sets where I'll accept a range of PSA 8 through 10.

    As a set builder looking to buy lots on eBay I do prefer when the lots are all the same grade. It just seems easier and cleaner that way.
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    As a seller it does not matter to me because every set builder is different.

    There are those building sets in 5, 6, 7, and 8.

    There are those that build in strict 8.

    What I try to do is sell hi end for the grade cards.

    They are the ones that tend to fetch the best prices.


    Steve
    Good for you.
  • imafishinnutimafishinnut Posts: 251 ✭
    I tend to establish a minimum grade for my sets that I am willing to keep permanently and then buy only cards with that minimum grade or higher. Unless I can get a really good price on cards graded higher than that minimum, I tend to stick to my minimum grade. I would recommend against buying cards below your minimum grade just as fillers unless they are extremely low population cards. IMO, it is a hassle to resell the lower graded cards once you get an upgrade and it is frequently a losing proposition monetary wise.

    For my 1971 Topps set, I established a minimum grade of a PSA 7 because of the difficulties associated with the black borders and the cost associated with purchasing the cards. My final GPA for the set is 7.361 so I did pick-up a bunch of PSA 8s along the way. Go into building the set, I made the decision that I could not realistically afford to build a 792 card set in PSA 8 or better. If your minimum grade is set higher than you can realistically afford, you will never complete the set.

    My two cents worth,
    Mike
  • theklonewarriortheklonewarrior Posts: 22
    Im trying to complete the 1957 Topps baseball set in PSA 4-6 range. I have gotten a few PSA 7s and a lone PSA 3 (the Mantle). I have most of the set raw, and the stars graded. But have picked up a few commons in PSA slabs.

    Im probably going to find a set to do in PSA 5 shape haven't decided what set to do, my reasons are to keep costs down. I like eye appeal verses spending thousands on perfect.
    My 1957 Topps Registry Set
  • johnny1976johnny1976 Posts: 440 ✭


    Hi

    I am a player collector, with that in mind I don't have a set grade that I will buy. I would love to get every card in an 8 or higher, but I know some of the cards in my set haven't been graded higher than an 8. I will buy fillers from time to time if the card that I am buying doesn't come up for sale that often. I know I won't have the best set out there, but my goal is to have a very good set. Hope that answers your questions from a player collectors point of view.
  • MintacularMintacular Posts: 1,138 ✭✭✭
    This is all very eye-opening to me, and obviously some variance depending on the collector. Sounds like folks are a bit more concerned about the overall average as opposed to being dead set on a "7" or whatever for each card in the set.

    Thanks for your input. I also found it interesting that some PSA set builders will also find SGC acceptable alternatives...
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    If you are a buyer always try to buy true to the grade cards.

    Not net graded ones.

    It won't matter what grade you collect then, the cards will be true to there grade.


    50's vintage sets in Ex-EX/Mnt can be very sweet looking.


    Steve





    Good for you.
  • perkdogperkdog Posts: 30,588 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I used to be a STRICT 7-8 grade collector unless ofcourse a certain card was a super tough SP then I would try and get the best grade available.

    About a few months ago I realized I had close to 20K into 7+ graded material and decided it was WAY too much cash to have tied up into cards so I "got out" and now I buy nicely centered 5's & 6's and have not been happier since, for instance I recently bought about 5 or 6 cards for roughly $275 in sweet looking 5-6 grade where if I was only selecting 7+ grade the same cards would have cost me close to a grand.

  • cwazzycwazzy Posts: 3,257 ✭


    << <i>I used to be a STRICT 7-8 grade collector unless ofcourse a certain card was a super tough SP then I would try and get the best grade available.

    About a few months ago I realized I had close to 20K into 7+ graded material and decided it was WAY too much cash to have tied up into cards so I "got out" and now I buy nicely centered 5's & 6's and have not been happier since, for instance I recently bought about 5 or 6 cards for roughly $275 in sweet looking 5-6 grade where if I was only selecting 7+ grade the same cards would have cost me close to a grand. >>



    This is what I have done from day 1 (mostly because I can't afford higher than 6 on most vintage image). I think 5s and 6s are the best value in the hobby. They can still have the eye appeal of a 7 or 8 but because of some minor flaws like a surface wrinkle you can get them for much less.
    Chris
    My small collection
    Want List:
    '61 Topps Roy Campanella in PSA 5-7
    Cardinal T206 cards
    Adam Wainwright GU Jersey
  • RonBurgundyRonBurgundy Posts: 5,491 ✭✭✭
    I buy what looks good, then upgrade if I see a nicer card. I always, and I mean always, strike a match and burn the dupe.
    Ron Burgundy

    Buying Vintage, all sports.
    Buying Woody Hayes, Les Horvath, Vic Janowicz, and Jesse Owens autographed items
  • FarmkiddFarmkidd Posts: 160
    Burgandy? You burn cards?

    Mintacular,
    Depends on the set to me.
    T206 (PSA1-PSA4) price per card is a big factor.

    1956 Topps (all PSA 7) won't buy anything different

    2001 Topps Archives Autograph (PSA1-10) I have submitted all but one and I have 120+ of these. Too hard to find graded, 99% Raw on Ebay

    1986 Sportflics (All PSA10) because no one else has ever done it and the cards are affordable and available.
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