Ebay: BIN Versus "True" Auction

Hi guys,
A recent topic got me thinking about this: with coins of "moderate value" (let's say $100-500), do you expect that you would generally realize higher prices on ebay selling the coin as a "Buy it Now" (potentially with the "Best Offer" option) or as a "No Reserve" true auction?
I had heard from many sellers that it is too risky to simply list a coin in a no reserve auction, but frankly in my experience so far I actually seem to pretty consistently "do better" listing my coins this way. Many times I seem to get no interest in a coin as a "BIN" but then actually see the coin sell for even more than the BIN price when I "give up" and list it in a true auction...
Anyone have particular experiences with this one way or the other?
A recent topic got me thinking about this: with coins of "moderate value" (let's say $100-500), do you expect that you would generally realize higher prices on ebay selling the coin as a "Buy it Now" (potentially with the "Best Offer" option) or as a "No Reserve" true auction?
I had heard from many sellers that it is too risky to simply list a coin in a no reserve auction, but frankly in my experience so far I actually seem to pretty consistently "do better" listing my coins this way. Many times I seem to get no interest in a coin as a "BIN" but then actually see the coin sell for even more than the BIN price when I "give up" and list it in a true auction...
Anyone have particular experiences with this one way or the other?
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Comments
Jim
<< <i>do you expect that you would generally realize higher prices on ebay selling the coin as a "Buy it Now" (potentially with the "Best Offer" option) or as a "No Reserve" true auction? >>
Depends on what you're selling. If it's something that's moderately expensive but doesn't have a large following, you can get killed in a no reserve auction if only one prospective buyer shows up during the week your auction is listed.
I had listed a 'hairlined' SLQ I had posted on here. I realized my entire 1917 set wasn't going to get slabbed so I figured I'd part it out. Full disclosure of the hairlines on all three of the 1917 listed coins.
The 50c piece, I was hoping for $150, it ended at below $50.00. It had a huge piece missing from the obverse field that some members said was likely to be a lamination error. The auction price definitely was a deal versus my prior BIN price.
The 25c SLQ, I had it at 300 or best offer. No bites. So I lowered it to $215, no bites still. So after the auction close, $276.00. I was hoping for at least $215 and would had accepted an offer of 215 on it. It too while in fantastic shape and retaining all of it's booming luster, had hairlines sadly!
the 5c Buff that I was so head over heels about ARGH!#!@#!@ well, I was hoping for at least 200. Another one way off! The auction ended at 99.00.
All auctions were 24 hour auctions. I don't care to do 3+ day auctions. I'd probably earn a lot more, but after being so used to BIN pricing on ebay, sometimes if nobody's making an offer, I'll just do a quick 24 hour purge to get things moving.
All in all, I'm satisfied. I still have the 1917 mercury that too is also wiped...and the 1917 1c that has been extremely harshly cleaned...but hey, for 300 dollars sight unseen and having made a little extra profit [knock off shipping, I include it always as free so I never have to see my name on these forums
Oh well!
So this time around, full disclosure with a BIN seemed like it just wasn't happenin, but once that auction format hit, all hairlined 1917 pieces were sold. And they were also already shipped! Woot! So what's really better? I find it purely random and whether the seller just get's lucky.
Have a lovely evening all.
That said, I realize fees can be higher when listing auctions w/ high starting prices, but I only listed last time they had free insertion fees. Even if you were paying the full fees, still cheaper than BIN I think (BIN also has higher final value fees I think).
Next time I try eBay, it'll be regular auction with high enough starting price. Seems like the best of both auction and BIN as you'll still get plenty of folks emailing you with their best offers if they don't like your price
Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 448
<< <i>No doubt buy it now with a best offer. I list mine at PCGS guide prices and explain in my lsiting that I expect a best offer. You would be shocked at how close people come to the the guide prices.....I am at 100% sold for the coins I have listed this year.
Jim >>
I've been doing a lot of best offers on ebay lately for PCGS coins. It seems most are priced right around or a little higher then price guide, I'll usually offer about 15-20% back of price guide value as thats what i think the market dictates at this time and most of the time the buyer quickly accepts. If I get a counteroffer I may up my offer some depending on the coin. I was wondering what kind of offers are you seeing? A lot of low ball offers? Or are you getting solid 1st offers?
I can also say this with absolute certainty. Start an auction out at the minimum price you want to sell it for-- that's the price its going for. IF you get that one bid. Remember, I as a typical ebay bidder will turn my nose up at a $100 coin that starts out at a $65 bid. Start it out at $1 with no reserve, I may well end up throwing $150 at it. Does that logic make any sense? Of course not. But as one forum person pointed out on here some time ago, when it comes to bidding on ebay ...how dare YOU take control of the price when I want to be in control?!!
I don't particularly care for Buy it Now with Best Offer. From my experience, most buyers will lowball you to death, expecting to score a bargain at a deep discount to your BIN. The fees are notably higher for these fixed price listings also, which is another turn-off. To me, this option only makes sense if you have multiples of the same item AND you want maximum time exposure (i.e. a 30-day listing). Even then, I prefer to do just a straight 'Buy it Now' so I don't have to deal with the hagglers.
If, however, you have a pure commodity item like gold or silver bullion, then I would definitely go for the cheapest listing option possible... regular auction; start price under $1; no special features. Those kind of items you don't have to worry about; they'll pretty much always sell for fair market value no matter what.
<< <i>I usually scroll right on past BINs. >>
Why in the world would a person do this. Although I probably sell coins you would not be interested in (modern cr%p), I almost exclusively offer mine as BINs/Best offer. My BIN price is typically far lower than the final price of traditional auctions. A person who just scrolls past BIN would be missing some great deals (assuming they are interested in my stuff). My auctions usually fully sell out even if I have large quantities for sale. In addition, scrolling right past BINs also eliminates deals like Microsoft cash back program which in the past would have saved you an additional 20-30% off the bin price. There is no good reason to simply ignore BINs that I can think of.
Jeff
<< <i>I usually scroll right on past BINs. >>
Initially, I do the same thing, but sometimes will go back and look at them if no true auctions exist. Try doing a search for "Pcgs Bust quarter." The same 10 BINs have been on eBay for months...it's getting tiring to look at
<< <i>Try doing a search for "Pcgs Bust quarter." >>
Just did it. Two thirds of the BIN listings also include a "Best Offer" option. Have you tried making any offers?
<< <i>Just did it. Two thirds of the BIN listings also include a "Best Offer" option. Have you tried making any offers? >>
Nah, none are dates I'm really interested in. Plus I just love the excitement of a no reserve auction
Reckless faith in the dollar's strength is reckless. Tariff proposals have demonstrated this.
<< <i>Nah, none are dates I'm really interested in. >>
Yeah, I guess it sucks when sellers just refuse to list the stuff you want to bid on, doesn't it?