O M G .......totally unbelieveable..........
DIMEMAN
Posts: 22,403 ✭✭✭✭✭
I was just looking thru the Dimes in the Heritage auction site. There are two 1919-S dimes in 66. One in FB the other without bands. You can buy the 1919-S no bands 66 for $1150. The FB dime is at $24,000 and the price list is 80K, so it will probably go for 80K plus.
O M G ....someone is going to pay approx. 78K for those stinking bands. U N B E L I E V E A B L E !!!!!!! What coins I could buy for that kind of money!!!! You noticed I said "coins" as in many coins!!!
Why not use $100 bills in your fireplace instead of wood!!! Geeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze!!!!!!!!!!!
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I wouldn't pay that if I had Bill Gates' money!!!!
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/gold/liberty-head-2-1-gold-major-sets/liberty-head-2-1-gold-basic-set-circulation-strikes-1840-1907-cac/alltimeset/268163
Check out the bands on this MS66 no band coin.
President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay
Ken
<< <i>This cert fits my style of collecting mercury dimes much better than this cert . That old 1 or 2 percent does nothing for me except relieve the pocket book of money. Coins like the one Tony has shown are a great value in my opinion. Hell I had to talk Tony into buying that 19S and now he shows it just to taunt me I think....
Ken >>
Now, Ken, would I do that?
President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay
Nuff SAID!!
And I DO have a clue when it comes to dimes and value!
The coin is worth what someone else is willing to pay at any given time period. The market sets the value and apparently
the market which in this case will be multiple bidders for the coin values the FB designation for this date and grade many
times more what the same date and grade would be worth with out the FB designation. I'm not saying the coin is or is not worth
$80K. But, it will be worth what it sells for at this time period. I do not own or have any interest in the coin in question but
did at one time own the other PCGS 1919-S MS66FB when it was a pop 1/0.
Ken
PS Hi dime buddies!!!
We don't disagree with Jon's right to "NOT" collect FB dimes, full bell line halfs, full step nickles, or full head quarters. But.. We also don't come on here every two months or so ranting about what "HE" does collect.
It's like I respect your right to collect what you like. But is it so hard to give me respect in return?
Or to some of you.. Most of us follow the rules here when selling our coins. Can't you do the same when selling yours?
I'm not ranting about what you are anybody collects. I am just saying that the bonuses have turned the registry into "who can spend the most money" and not about who have the better grades and condition coins. There is no way that a full set of Mercs in 66FB should be ahead of a full set in 67 no bands. It's just not right.
If someone wants to spend 80K for a FB 19-S instead of $1100 or so for the one shown in this thread by fcloud........well......???????
We don't make the rules, we just play the game.....
But we don't have to play, not everybody does.
I know I can't play with the 'Big Boys' in specific series, so I play the Mint/Proof game. Works for me, it's usually based on quantity not necessarily quality (some of my coins are rather nice).
With your views of things, you can play the non-FB Merc set game, there your MS67 will beat out their MS66FB.
If you want to play the complete Dimes series, buy (lots of) other date with the money you save not buying high priced FB coins & beat them on complete-ness(?).
But I ask you, does it really matter what a coins sells for once it becomes out of reach?
Believe me, lots of coins are out of reach for me.
I say, "More power to the seller", especially in this economy.
<< <i>There is no way that a full set of Mercs in 66FB should be ahead of a full set in 67 no bands. >>
I would have to disagree with this statement. In any given series it is much tougher to complete a set be it in Full Bands, Full Steps, Full Bell Lines or Full Head Quarters.
I actually agree with the bonus points given these coins and think the Registry Sets are weighted appropriately.
If you want to see something that is really screwed up just go "across the street to their Registry"
Instead of giving coins a point value that relates to the 1 - 70 point scale they give out some wild numbers which as far as I can see have no relation to anything,,,,, admittily I have taken very lttle time and effort trying to figure out their system but a top set over there can have a point value of 25,000 - 30,000 points. This tells me nothing.
Since we are talking Mercury Dimes I clicked on a top set and it has a point value of 26,625 points. It doesn't say what the total possible points would be for a set comprised of all the current Top Coins within the set or nor does it give a overall point value weighting in relation to the 1 - 70 point scale.
I much prefer the PCGS weighting system,,, Full Bands, Full Steps, Full Bell Lines or Full Head Quarters and all.
JMHO, GrandAm
Your WRONG! It's actually harder to find Mercs. without the bands. Just go look thru the list at Heritage.
I definitely think all the designators have ruined the hobby. It's all about money not condition!
Isn't FS, FSB, FT, FH, FBL, ect., part of the condition?
But hasn't always been about money? An MS67 cost more than an MS66, which cost more than a 65, etc.
Shouldn't a fully struck coin deserve recognition?
Maybe weakly struck coins should also be recognized as such an a point or 2 deducted from the registry?
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It's actually harder to find Mercs. without the bands. Just go look thru the list at Heritage.
I maybe wrong in my thinking, but I think that collectors sell higher end coins through auction houses like Heritage.
I would not send common $10-50 coins there, so I think most of the coin Merc's would be FSB, and most Frankie's would be FBL, etc.
Even pop's would not tell the whole story because collectors would tend to send in better struck coins, hoping for the FS, FSB, FT, FH, FBL designation.
I would suggest going to a B&M....going through their coins and seeing which is easier to find, an Unc Merc with FSB or those without.
Or a Frankie with FBL as opposed to a Frankie without FBL, and so forth.
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Just to clarify this, because there seems to be 2 trains of thought here.
Are you saying that this coin, the 1919-S is not worth the high premium, or that coins (in general) with strike designations are not worth a premium......
OR that coins with striking designations are not worth the extra points in the registry?
If it's one of the latter 2, I will gladly trade you non-strike designated coins for your designated ones in the same grade.
You just made my point. It's all about money! And it's not just the 19-s here it is ALL coins.
Take a look at fclouds 19-s then look at the FB coin at Heritage...............is the Heritage coin worth an extra 80K.....not to me!!!!!
And strike is not part of condition. A 65FB coin is not as nice and mark free as a 67, but is worth the same in the Registry! Not right!
<< <i>Your WRONG! It's actually harder to find Mercs. without the bands. Just go look thru the list at Heritage. >>
To each his own,,,, agreed in some cases such as $1150 for no bands and $80,000 for bands is a bit extreme and I personally don't have the cash to pay $80,000 for any coin but given my rathers I would rather have the Full Band Coin.
When I look at a Dime without Full Bands or a Nickel without Full Steps it seems something is missing. I have come to appreciate the detail present in a coin with Full Bands, Full Steps, Full Bell Lines or a Full Head.
Everyone should collect what makes them happy,,,,, not someone else
I'm not knocking what someone else likes,,,, just voicing my humble opinion.
JMHO, GrandAm
Fcloud, you have the "perfect" 19-S!!! Period!!!!
If you want to look at it that way, yes....it's all about the money. No argument from me.
Take a look at fclouds 19-s then look at the FB coin at Heritage...............is the Heritage coin worth an extra 80K.....not to me!!!!!
Is that the point? That to at least 2 other collectors it is worth more than you think it should be worth?
And strike is not part of condition.
OK. I thought it was (weaker strike do not get high grades even if there are no hits), but I stand corrected.
A 65FB coin is not as nice and mark free as a 67, but is worth the same in the Registry! Not right!
Now you bring back the registry.
In essence you're saying you can build a #1 registry set with money.
That's not a news flash!
Do you think that removing the 'bonus' for FS, FSB, FT, FBL, etc. would help?
Then I would counter by saying that 'weighted bonus'' for rarity should also be removed.
Why should a rare coin in VF beat out my common MS coin?? Mine looks better!
I will re-state my position, this is a game & we play by their rules.
Get too engrossed in it and take it too seriously & you'll be leaving the game soon enough.
Stick around & have fun.
Cherish the coins you do have, they're some beauts in there.
Let's just agree to disagree. This isn't about me or the registry. I know I will never finish ahead of Larry in the complete dime set. He has deep pockets and goes got high grade were I go for mid grades and he goes for FB where I go no bands.
To me when I buy coins it is for value. I want the most nice coins I can get for the money. And to me fclouds 19-S is the better value. The two coins in question here are so close to the same. Yet one is worth 80K more. To me I would rather take that 80K and buy many other coins and have the no band 19-s.
Heck, that 80K would buy most of my whole collection.
Like I said if I had Bill Gates' money..............I would go with the fcloud 19-s..............but that's just me.
I'm not bashing FB buyers...........it just blows my mind.
<< <i>'m not bashing FB buyers... >>
Your posts sometimes come across as bashing, so just please be careful how you word things before you hit post message.
<< <i>Sorry, I just don't get the "alure" of the bands. >>
Funny, that's repeating what I said, i just said "no clue" instead of "don't get".
This being said, I also prefer the higher grades and collect my clad Roosies in higher grade rather than fb. And there isn't even a non-fb registry for clad dimes like there is for Mercs (non-fb collectors can use that set, so fb bonus isn't even an issue)! Yes some collectors are chasing plastic and registry set points... but please don't forget some collectors do appreciate the rarity and challenge of ultimate high grades, strike designations, or whatever they like the best, and for them it is all about the coins and not just about money! (to some collectors $80K is nothing, and to some collectors $80 is a fortune).
Dimeman, we actually agree.......well, maybe if I had Bill Gates' money......
But I don't, and if I was just a millionaire (I wish) I wouldn't spend mega $$$$ on anything other than mintage rarities.
As far as better value's in coins are concerned, why do you think I only have 2 PR70's?
One I traded for, the other I made!
Before the POP TOP folks come after me I will say that I'm only talking about PR/MS70s vs. PR/MS69s.
But this should be saved for another thread!
.....a great investment potential there also!
Later, Paul.
What would I buy? For the money it costs for the 1919-S non-FB with a mintage of 8,850,000 and a combined NGC/PCGS population at MS66 of 34, I could purchase a 3CS in PR64 Cam with a mintage of ~500 and a combined NGC/PCGS pop of 7. Someone out there probably thinks it's crazy to pay so much for a coin with a mintage of ~500 when there is a variety with fewer than 50 known that can had for less. We collect metal disks, by many we are all considered lunatics.
I get the impression you are mad that you can not afford the FB example, when you should be happy you can get the regulars much cheaper
and when you are looking at raw coins for your collection, occasionally one of your purchases may have FB, which you can turn and buy more coins with