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Any advice on buying huge collections on Ebay? Please...

Hi,
I am looking into maybe purchasing a large collection off Ebay.
It's the majority of the better cards from a card shop that couldn't make it.
The value for the cards are all between $500-$5
But there are several thousand cards
The most valuable cards (top 20 or so) are all graded mostly by PSA with some BGS.
Do you guys have any advice on how not to get ripped off?
The ebay seller has 650 %100 feedback mostly on big transactions. He has been a member for almost 5 years.
Any advice on how to pay (what payment method to use), how to do the transaction safely and any other advice would be very helpful.
Thanks

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    I would price out my bid on the graded cards ONLY..

    Then figure the raw cards as throw ins.
    I would use paypal, with a credit card so if paypal wont refund your money then you have additional back up with your cc company.
    I would contact your cc company and find out what type of credit card purchase protection you have first and then use that as a way to pay thru paypal.

    One other point, remember that while it may seem like a great deal more often than not the graded cards will be much less quality than you thought. Please be very careful on your bid.

    hope that helps and good luck.

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    Link To Scanned 1952 Topps Cards Set is now 90% Complete Plus Slideshows of the 52 Set
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    The majority of the good cards in this collection are the graded ones
    Then what's left over is a bunch of factory sealed SPx and Chrome boxes and Autograph and Jersey Cards.
    There are a few thousand Auto's and Jersey's in the lot
    The boxes, GU's and auto's are almost as safe as purchasing the PSA graded stuff in my opinion...
    Don't you agree...
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    Bosox1976Bosox1976 Posts: 8,536 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Pay no more than 65% of what the graded cards will sell for on ebay (check completed auctions and make a spreadsheet). Like Felicia said, don't even count the raw (unless they are high end autos of HOF type guys).

    Raw RJ Soward rc's and the like may have a "book value" but in reality they are not even worth the postage typically. Factor that stuff as zero and sell it as a lot.

    If you do shows frequently and have a ""dollar box" and a "quarter box" then you might factor in a small value for the raw.

    edit: The boxes and graded should be the basis of your bid. GU s/b used minimally. Good luck.
    Mike
    Bosox1976
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    GoDodgersFanGoDodgersFan Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭
    Cash is king right now so be careful not to over pay for it.

    Bosox1976 made an excellent point of not paying more than 65% of ebay sale values of the graded
    stuff. In fact, I'd pay 50% max. I'd pay more for key RC only.

    I don't know if you do shows or plan to sell them on ebay, but the raw AU/GU stuff have no or very little
    value. If you do, you might pay a small value on them, such as 25 cents or so. Player selection is important
    as most AU/GU are worthless.

    Good luck.
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    WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    Need to know exactly what cards you are talking about.

    In general I'd like to pay no more then 50% of book for items that I know
    will sell.

    Items that will sit and collect dust should not even be factored in.

    Steve
    Good for you.
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    use the Mr. Mint method; offer 8% of its value and denigrate the seller by insulting his collecting habits and poor hygiene.
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