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My picture taking skills are improving
ksteelheader
Posts: 11,777 ✭
I've had this Sony DSC-S85 for 7 1/2 years. With the help of some critique here, Mark Goodmans' book, and reading the instruction book, I've been getting some good results.
Lets hear your critiques. All pics were taken hand held.
This is from my grandaughter Saras' type set.
This is a 55-D I picked up yesterday
And, a Weak Motto I picked up yesterday.
Lets hear your critiques. All pics were taken hand held.
This is from my grandaughter Saras' type set.
This is a 55-D I picked up yesterday
And, a Weak Motto I picked up yesterday.
0
Comments
Your grandaughter is a cutie!!
I will let others pick them apart.
I think they look great, especially without a copy stand.
a copy stand is a must!
you must have very steady hands to have done such a good job without it.
<< <i>
a copy stand is a must!
you must have very steady hands to have done such a good job without it. >>
Not bad for a 60 year old fart who has had rotator cuff surgery to both shoulders.
Not bad for a 60 year old fart who has had rotator cuff surgery to both shoulders.>>>
Holy McGee.
Maybe Goodman or Becoka will showup here.
The Pic's look great I wish I could figure it out, after many try's I've given up.
Bob
Lordmarcovan, WTCG, YogiBerraFan, Phoenin21, LindeDad, Coll3ctor, blue594, robkoll, Mike Dixon, BloodMan, Flakthat and others.
In genereal, flashy coins don't need help to become more flashy when you photograph them. Take the 55-D quarter for example. Look at the lightest area out of context from what surrounds it and ask yourself if you can still discern the texture of the coin. Do the same with the darkest area. If both the lightest and darkest saturated areas are too big, then you need to diffuse your light. If the light areas are too big and there are no dark areas, reduce the exposure. If the dark areas are too big and there are no light areas, increase the exposure. It looks like you also need a second light to fill the shadows (Washington's eye, underside of jaw).
A trip to WalMart is in order with the following shopping list, all of which can be used on stuff other than your coins, in case you need further rationalization for your purchases:
Cheap tripod, I think the model is MX-2000. $30
One or two gooseneck desk lamps (depending on whether your current light is a good match for such a lamp) $8-16
Two compact fluorescent bulbs -- I use daylight balanced, but as long as you have a white balance adjustment on your camera, it doesn't much matter. $5
Box of tissues for adding diffusion to lamps. $1
This is what I had been using for quite a while and I still use this if taking my setup on the road. I sprung for a copy stand several months ago as an upgrade, but I have a heavier camera than you do. Use the short self-timer on the camera when it's on the tripod to allow camera shake to attenuate before the picture is taken.
Have fun!
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
designset
Treasury Seals Type Set
<< <i>Too contrasty.
In genereal, flashy coins don't need help to become more flashy when you photograph them. Take the 55-D quarter for example. Look at the lightest area out of context from what surrounds it and ask yourself if you can still discern the texture of the coin. Do the same with the darkest area. If both the lightest and darkest saturated areas are too big, then you need to diffuse your light. If the light areas are too big and there are no dark areas, reduce the exposure. If the dark areas are too big and there are no light areas, increase the exposure. It looks like you also need a second light to fill the shadows (Washington's eye, underside of jaw).
A trip to WalMart is in order with the following shopping list, all of which can be used on stuff other than your coins, in case you need further rationalization for your purchases:
Cheap tripod, I think the model is MX-2000. $30
One or two gooseneck desk lamps (depending on whether your current light is a good match for such a lamp) $8-16
Two compact fluorescent bulbs -- I use daylight balanced, but as long as you have a white balance adjustment on your camera, it doesn't much matter. $5
Box of tissues for adding diffusion to lamps. $1
This is what I had been using for quite a while and I still use this if taking my setup on the road. I sprung for a copy stand several months ago as an upgrade, but I have a heavier camera than you do. Use the short self-timer on the camera when it's on the tripod to allow camera shake to attenuate before the picture is taken.
Have fun! >>
I have all the things you mentioned. I set up and have tried and tried, but all I have now is a clusterbomb. Shadows on top of shadows. Don't matter where I try to move or position the lights.
Parts of the coins are out of focus, this can be fixed either by not angling the coin or by increasing the F-stops to something larger increasing the depth of field.
Are you using a tri-pod? might help if you use a level on the table and try to match it by placing it on the camera.
What was that expression?
Oh yeah!
"Buy the book before you snap the shutter."
"Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working" Pablo Picasso
WTB: Barber Quarters XF
I see some areas of full white and full black. That means that you cannot see any detail in those areas. Other folks have mentioned it: Too much contrast. I generally try to avoid losing any detail anywhere because the brightness is off scale, either too bright or too dark. Gamma correction can be used, which is a way to adjust the contrast in a manner that does not toss out the bright or dark pixels.
Focus. But then you are handheld. It's good for handheld.
You appear to be using one light. Get a second.
</critic>
It's quite good! You are getting quite a lot from your camera! But if anyone asks for a criticism, i'll produce some.
I thought you were a man.....................