prepping coins to be graded

VAUSAThermographer · February 1, 2009 10:32PM

Does rubbing MS70 with a qtip (VERY LIGHTLY) to take off any minor dirt that would be distracting from the coins appearance before sending in to be graded count as "CLEANED"?
Thanks in advance.

1Mike1 · February 1, 2009 11:25PM

I would say send it like it is. You will not know if it is MS70 until it returns.

commoncents05 · February 2, 2009 1:26AM

If I were going to use anything, I would use acetone and a Q-tip.

-Paul

Fairlaneman · February 2, 2009 1:58AM

If the coins are mint state I would forget the q-tip completely!!!

Soak the coin in olive oil or mineral oil for a few days and then swish and wash with water and swish and wash with water and swish and wash with water around in acetone a few times to get the oil off.

Ken

scottgardener · February 2, 2009 4:04AM

If you have to worry about it, then it's probably not MS70. It could be MS69, so the question itself is still valid, but remember, MS70 means essentially perfect.

If you're rubbing off dust that's stuck to the coin, then try blowing air instead. Office equipment places sell cans of compressed air for cleaning keyboards and other electronics.

VAUSAThermographer · February 2, 2009 5:17AM

I'm sorry I should have given that the cleaning product is called MS70. It is manufactured by Betterbuilt Chemicals. I have used it on circulated coins and I am amazed by how much dirt comes off. Basically the process is as such... Rough up the qtip so the fibers are loose, dip qtip in MS70, lay the qtip on the coin and swipe it all over, flip coin do other side, flip coin swipe all over again, flip do other side, rinse in sink while holding coins edge, lay wet coin on toilet paper and fold paper over then pat dry and airtight it. With a 4Xmag I can not see any scratches. Most light tones and dirt come off instantly. Copper stays the same color but looks much cleaner. Morgans and silvers are amazing results.
So I am sending in some coins that had "hazing" which was removed with MS70. I guess I will find out when I get them back. About 1/3 of batch had been MS70ed. According to the bottle it is used for proofs and mint states to remove tarnish, fog, oil, dirt, ect. This is not a dip. I know that if you have light pvc PCGS will send it back for you to clean up and resubit so is this what the find acceptable or is this considered a 90ed "cleaned" coin?

Thanks I appriciate the responses and I will try to be a bit more specific .

VAUSAThermographer · February 2, 2009 6:05AM

So you know what kind of coins. I am a 3 years in PCGS 1968-present Proof Registar. I was able to get the 1977 and newer DCAM69 easily and cheaply. Now I am going to try finding my own coins and have them graded to fill the harder and much more expensive coins. I buy unopened proof envelopes. Like Willy Wonka "Come on 69DCAM, toning a bonus" Some coins have a fog effect that is distracting so I have been trying this MS70 cleaner on poor proofs and I can't see any scratches on the mirror background. I basically apply enough pressure to keep the qtip in contact with the coin and spead the chemical evenly on the coin and make sure it gets in by the words and other areas by date and other recessed areas. The coins are very slippery after applying the MS70 so have to have steady hands. Hope this is enough info. Thanks, Has anyone else used this product and turned in coins to PCGS to be graded?

Mark · February 2, 2009 6:56AM

There was a HUGE and contentious dispute about the effect of MS70 on red Indian head proof cents. Here is a link that will quickly lead you into the entire morass: link As you will see, some assert that lacquer is necessary and others claim otherwise. I don't think anything was ever really settled--not that anything is ever really settled--but I know that I formed my opinion.

LindeDad · February 2, 2009 7:36AM

Any form of rubbing on a proof is risky.
Acetone dipping for haze has been going on for quit awhile. Added this is for silver or clads but not copper.

VAUSAThermographer · February 2, 2009 9:39AM

I did not find any of my copper proofs to have any color change. They were RD but had fog that made them look unattractive. On a 1943 circulated nickel it did turn the areas around the raised areas to turn a blue color. Well I guess I will try to find quality coins 1950-1964 68+/DCAM that don't have fog/hazy from sealed proof envelopes, getting to be like work.

I am designing a new hovering (wind/attic heat generator) to sell, all so I can have BS $ to buy some DCAM lincolns and up. My wife is a real sweetheart to put up with my constant creating CHEAP alt. energy prototypes to sell for my collections $, (most have fallen short of reasonable results, but still tend to hang around).

How about a bumper sticker. "What would you do for a 69 DCAM?" "Coin collectors love 69 DCAMs" "Working so I can buy more 69 DCAMS" My wife would kill me BUT it is racy enough to catch people's attention and maybe they will look up what it means and get into CC. I have thought about it for advertising a web based coin site.
Thanks for the link. That was helpful information. I will report how they come back/ the few that were MS70ed from PCGS.

ProofCents · February 2, 2009 11:15AM

What ever happen to sending a coin in and it is what it is?

lusterlover · February 2, 2009 11:33AM

<< <i>What ever happen to sending a coin in and it is what it is? >>

Please put the doctoring away. Original coins are what people want.

Steve27 · February 2, 2009 9:20PM

<< <i>Original coins are what people want. >>

I wish that was true.

VAUSAThermographer · February 2, 2009 10:14PM

I have read several coin books. The story that sticks in my mind is a dealer bought a morgan for 35k, could not sell it over a year so sold it for 30k to another dealer. That dealer "cleaned" up the morgan and sold it 3 weeks later for 120k. So IS ORIGINAL REALLY BETTER? Not from that example. I know which condition I would want the coin in the one that gets the most $. Capitalism @ its best. If the coin is not scratched or "damaged" why would making a coins's appearance as good as possible be a neg. I bet the new owner of that 125K morgan did not care.

REALLY what are the chances that I would find a pre1970s proofs that are 68+ dcam and no fogging from sealed proof envelopes. I can tell you NOT easy 4 years of buying sealed envelopes. I have found DCAMs that had a haze or fog that would take away from the coin's attractiveness. Pointless to send in if it looks like cr-p/ grade or no grade, but a spotless pre 70's 68+dcam will get decent $. Most 60+DCAM lincolns pre 1976 get more $ on ebay than PCGS says they should, those that are spotless.

I purchased a 1K worth (according to PCGS) of coins for less than 100.00 from a dealer. Why, the coins graded high BUT they looked like Cr-P. Ugly toning. Now would you clean those coins to realize the "true" value or closer to it or leave the ugly coins as is and never realize the higher coin value. How do you know if you bought a PCGS coin that was graded that was not "cleaned" somehow. From the responses here from fellow collectors who have given info. on how they "clean" coins to be graded I would say you wouldn't. Don't loose sleep. If you like the coin in the slab then that is all that matters. If you have a source who has uncleaned near perfect coins at a decent price you had better keep to yourself or I and everyone else will be there.

Silverstate · February 5, 2009 1:41AM

<< <i>What ever happen to sending a coin in and it is what it is? >>

drwstr123 · February 6, 2009 6:19AM

If you want to see what a slight tune-up does to a coin, check this S-VDB on Treletrade:LINK

scottgardener · February 6, 2009 11:08AM

Wah-ha-wow! Yes, it's "genuine" only, but that's still a lot of star power there.

prepping coins to be graded

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