Questions on Wax Packs, Re-Sealers, & Addictions

thedutymon

Good day,
So lets start by getting our cards on the Table: Hi. My name is Neil and I am an Addict!! Yes that's right! An Addict! And it really is all of your faults! I mainly collect Non Sport Vintage (1930-1970). But have had to branch out and now collect some 70-80's Football as well, and it is all your faults! Because of the cost of Non Sport unopened Vintage, I was never into buying unopened and Ripping, just to expensive.
Then about 3-4 years ago I discovered these boards and right about the same time there was a group rip being put together and just for fun I decided to hop in. So I did and got my stuff from Steve and started Ripping. And haven't been able to stop since!!!! (So if you are all feeling guilty enough, I have a suggestion to help make amends. PM me and I will give you my address and you can send me some wax to Rip. This will make you feel better)
So anyway my question is at what point, IE: price point do you not worry about being scammed by some Re-Sealer. Is it at $2 bucks a pack or $20 bucks a pack or higher? And before somebody chimes in with the Company line of only buy from Steve, that is fine and I do a lot of that, but there are real deals on E-bay sometimes and I to my knowledge have never gotten any Re-Sealed stuff. But I buy low dollar stuff mostly so maybe that is why.
As an example I just bought 3 packs recently for all of $4 bucks for all three. A 1980 Topps Football, 1988/89 Fleer Basketball, and a 1987 Topps Football. I pulled a nice Payton out of the 80, a Super Jordan out of the 88/89, and Super Elway out of the 87. So there is good stuff out there.
So any opinions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Neil

Leiascards

I would recommend only buying from Gary Daggett.

tombo

I would recommend only buying from Gary Daggett

That should definitely help with your addiction. A couple of his packs and you many never rip again!!!

Leiascards

<< <i>I would recommend only buying from Gary Daggett

That should definitely help with your addiction. A couple of his packs and you many never rip again!!! >>



Aside from wanting to rip his head off.

Post25

Hey Neil,
For me it is not a question of what price point to I don't worry about getting ripped off at. Whether I am spending $3 or $300 I want to make sure I am getting a good deal. That is why I only buy wax from people with a solid reputation. If I am unsure I usually will ask around to see if anyone has bought of the seller before. The seller's reputation means everything. And I agree - there still is good wax out there. Just recently bought a box of '83 fleer and had multiple 10's (Goose Gossage, Reggie jackson, Rickey Henderson, Nolan Ryan) and pulled 2 Gwynn's and a Sandberg (all 3 were 9's).

Jeff

11235813

I think that you generally have very little to worry about if you avoid years with high value RC's and anything pre-1976.

For baseball 1981 and 1984 are good years, for football 1980 is a good year, and for basketball 77-78, 78-79, and 79-80 are all nice.

Also, buy racks instead of wax/cellos, since they are harder to fake.

Lastly, if you are just ripping for fun and not looking to pull high-value card, look at some of the test issues from the 80's (Topps Super, Topps Big Baseball, Donruss Action All-Stars, Donruss Pop-Ups, Fleer Star Stickers). Most can be found for $5-10 per box on Ebay, have lots of superstars, and nice designs.

I have bought and ripped everything mentioned in this post within the last year and had a great time doing so.

Late 70's basketball is nice, because with 132 card sets, you get at least 2 full sets from each box.

summerof68

11235813 is absolutely correct. Stick with rak paks for two reasons: they are obviously much more difficult to reseal and or counterfeit; plus rak paks (in sharp condition) will produce higher grade cards than wax or cellos. The tightly wrapped wax and cello wrappers frequently damage the corners of the cards.

grote15

Rack definitely yields higher grade cards than wax or cello or vending (the worst option), but Topps produced cards in patterns during throughout the 70s, so savvy dealers have an idea who may be lurking inside (or not). The best "unsearched" option is wax, and the packs are wrapped loosely enough so that damage is not a factor as long as the packs have been properly stored. Unfortunately, wax is also the easiest of all options to reseal so it's paramount that the packs be truly unopened. I've pulled a couple of PSA 10s from 1975 wax packs that way. Cellos, as summer68 says, are the worst option, as the cellos throughout the 70s were very tightly wrapped around the cards, and you are lucky to find a couple unaffected cards, usually in the middle of the pack.

lsutigers1973

I agree with grote. Unless you are buying a sealed rack case, wax is still the way to go due to sequencing in racks and cellos.

Blackborder

Here ya go.

ebay link

summerof68

As usual a very thorough, informative & accurate response from Grote15!!

thedutymon

Blackborder,
I am assuming you included the link, to show Gary the infamous re-sealer's stuff. Is anybody actually stupid enough to buy his stuff???
Neil

VitoCo1972

holy @%$#! Way before I joined this board I bought a box of 82 Donruss from that seller ID. I was miffed at no Ripken's. I had no idea that was the infamous Gary's ebay ID. Wow, I know it was like 2 years ago, but that stinks. Wound up having to buy a raw Ripken for my set. Could someone really open a $60 box worth of packs just for one card? Is that possible? Does anyone have that much time on their hands?