1953 Topps Collectors.... A little help please.

PROMETHIUS88

After much time and thought, I have finally decided to do a 53 Topps set. I had a tough time chosing between 55 and 53, but there's just something about the 53's that I've always liked. Besides, it is relatively small and the cards seem to be fairly plentiful. Now, where I need some help..... The budget that I'm working with will keep me at the PSA 6 range. From what I've seen in my short time of searching for these, it appears that the 6's look pretty nice but most have some centering issues. The 5's on the other hand don't look as sharp, but don't seem to have as many centering issues. Is this the norm for this set or is it just coincidence on the cards I've seen? Also, I'm guessing as is the case with most sets, there are some certain cards that are commons that are tough to find and a little more pricey than others??
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm anxious to start my new quest after years of working on a 70 Topps basketball set in all 8/9. (I need to shift my focus!!!) Besides, I must have caught my wife at a weak moment cause she agreed to let me do this one .... even after driving her nuts talking about basketball cards for the last year as I was getting close to completion. Thanks much!

Tim

acowa

<<From what I've seen in my short time of searching for these, it appears that the 6's look pretty nice but most have some centering issues. The 5's on the other hand don't look as sharp, but don't seem to have as many centering issues.>>

Probably just coincidental. I am a collector of this set as well and I don't think there is a norm for this set other than the chipping issues on the black or red nameplate border at the bottom of the cards. I think what you're probably running into is that most people don't submit trying to get a PSA 5 or 6. The money spent on grading doesn't pay off for 5's and 6's. These cards were probably submitted hoping for a more investor grade result. Centered PSA 6 cards probably get resubmitted more as well. There have been some instances where these have regraded to 7's and 8's.

I think that looking for centered cards will pay off in the long run when/if you decide to sell.


Regards,


Alan

Downtown1974

Tim, I have a nice set of 1955s that I did in all PSA 6. The thing with 6s is if you are finding PSA 6 cards with nice sharp corners, nice color and gloss, but the they are OC, it could just be the case of the submitter requesting no qualifiers at the time it was submitted. A card that is graded PSA 8 OC will grade PSA 6 if no qualifiers are requested. This is common for all sets. Stick with nice centering and you will be happier in the long run. A true PSA 6 is a nice looking card. To be honest, I recently started a 56 set in PSA 7 and 8. I cannot see a difference between alot of my PSA 6s from my 55 set, and the PSA 7s in my 56 set.

WinPitcher

Yup, true Ex/MNT cards are the best buy IMO.


Steve

PROMETHIUS88

Thanks for the responses. It might be a bit more difficult than I thought doing the set in 6... at least centered 6's, but what the heck. I have the time and no kids leaving for college for another 6 years. Unfortunately, child support for one and private school for another one keeps me from doing it in 7. I'll post my progress from time to time and reserve the right to ask more questions periodically!

Thanks again!
Tim

WinPitcher

Nicely centered PSA 5's are nice too. Just make sure to stay away from net graded cards.

Good luck!


Steve

vintagechris

Great set. One of my all time faves. Like a poor man's '52, and honestly I think the '53's have better eye appeal. This thread is making me want to jump in too.

Lothar52

i prefer bowman color myself

PROMETHIUS88

Chris, join in, but only if you are going for something other than 6's!
Ryan, the Bowman color are some exceptional looking cards, but I have never been able to get into Bowman.


Tim