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Help me grade this 1922 No D weak reverse cent. Lrg pics

These are scans of my 1922 no D weak reverse cent. I have no idea how this would grade, since the reverse is so weakly struck. I'm pretty sure that no details where ever in the wheat. the rim is pretty intact so I I don't think it's wear that made this cent look this bad. However I don't think is higher then F or above.
I will be sending this in eventually just for the authentication aspect of grading, but I am curious what people think it would grade. Me, I have no idea due to the heavy weakness on the reverse and weakness on the obverse.
thanks.

I will be sending this in eventually just for the authentication aspect of grading, but I am curious what people think it would grade. Me, I have no idea due to the heavy weakness on the reverse and weakness on the obverse.
thanks.


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Also looking for VF-EF Seated halves.
Sell me your old auction catalogs...
<< <i>VG8, maybe a 10. Nothing distracting though.......... >>
My first thought was a 15, but I have seen 20's that were close to this one. I dunno, they are hard to grade!
To bad it wasn't a strong reverse, but it's still nice. My grandmother found it in change in the late '50's.
<< <i>This will be a good one for a GTG after I get it slabbed. If it gets anything over a 10 I'd be mighty surprised, but I could see it getting a 15 if the strike is as weak as I think it is. The coin in hand has a pretty good rim still, which I think points to a pretty weak strike which might help this coin out.
To bad it wasn't a strong reverse, but it's still nice. My grandmother found it in change in the late '50's. >>
Yea, I retract my 20 after looking at it more. I can see it more as a 15.
i would say vg10.
60 years into this hobby and I'm still working on my Lincoln set!
Nice coin !!
<< <i>VG8, maybe a 10. Nothing distracting though.......... >>
I agree with this, I don't see the separation between the cheek and jaw that would warrant a grade of Fine.
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
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<< <i>VG8, maybe a 10. Nothing distracting though.......... >>
I agree with this, I don't see the separation between the cheek and jaw that would warrant a grade of Fine.
Sean Reynolds >>
I would generally agree, but look at this slabbed one in VG 10 Heritage VG 10 . It's a complete dog, and there are many more like it. Maybe it has something to do with die they are which affects the grade, because IMO my coin is definitely better then this one.
is the rev rim complete?
I have a similiar coin from boyhood G6 is mine
very hard to grade due to weakness in strike
good find by your grandmother
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>VG8, maybe a 10. Nothing distracting though.......... >>
I agree with this, I don't see the separation between the cheek and jaw that would warrant a grade of Fine.
Sean Reynolds >>
I would generally agree, but look at this slabbed one in VG 10 Heritage VG 10 . It's a complete dog, and there are many more like it. Maybe it has something to do with die they are which affects the grade, because IMO my coin is definitely better then this one. >>
that slab, based on the era of it, was some rather inconsistent grading. sometimes strict, sometimes widly inaccurate. i would not
judge based on that how pcgs will grade now. if you can find a more
recently graded example i might be more understanding of your
point.
<< <i>i believe the rim has to be complete to get VG
is the rev rim complete? >>
The reverse rim may not need to be complete on a "weak reverse" example.
Just as you may not need a separation on the cheek and jaw on a VF example of the "weak obverse" (aka "strong reverse").
60 years into this hobby and I'm still working on my Lincoln set!
Heritage PCGS VF25
My obverse isn't as good, but the reverses are about the same. So I would say mine should fall in the F range.