Grading vintage commons for resale

123Slider

Just curious about what the cut-off for you is on grading a card for resale or selling raw. I've got several vintage cards I'm sorting through trying to figure out whether to grade or sell raw. With a $6.00 grading fee, is a minimum of a $12.00 - $15.00 dollar selling price of the graded card seem about right? I've got mainly 1952-1957 cards that I'm figuring commons are worth grading if:

1952 Topps - PSA 5's
1952 Bowman - PSA 6's
1953 Bowman Color - PSA 5's
1953 Topps - PSA 5's
1954 Topps - PSA 6's
1954 Bowman - PSA 6's
1955 Topps - PSA 6's
1955 Bowman - PSA 7's
1956 Topps - PSA 7's
1957 Topps - PSA 7's

With high numbers being an exception of course.

Any input is appreciated.

Chad

lsutigers1973

My only reply would be that you have to grade the 52's if they are at least in the 5 range. Thanks to a lot of reprint sets that, excuse the eBay line, do not say reprint on the back, intelligent set collectors usually avoid the raw cards on this set.

mickeymantle24

<< <i>My only reply would be that you have to grade the 52's if they are at least in the 5 range. Thanks to a lot of reprint sets that, excuse the eBay line, do not say reprint on the back, intelligent set collectors usually avoid the raw cards on this set. >>



Yeah, there are many reprints for the 52's, You can look on ebay now and probaly find some Mantles 52 Topps cards that people are selling and saying it does not say reprint on the back. You would probaly make a profit off the 52's if you get them graded. Good Luck. Mike

msassin

My only input is with the '52 Bowman. I wouldn't bother unless it has a chance at a 7 or better (a lot of 8's haven't even been bringing $40 lately)

WinPitcher

Also make sure the 52 Bowmans are clean on the backs.


Higher number commons I'd go 6 and better.

Bosox1976

Pretty good list for ROI. Raw is doing pretty well with good scans - so it makes good sense to use a little more restraint in grading.

stevek

I don't think 52 Topps commons are worth grading for a 5. Maybe a 6 for common black backs or common numbers in the high 200's, low 300's. Don't forget you've got to factor in postage and insurance costs sending to PSA as well as your time for processing the PSA order, and there are extra mailing costs when sending out slabbed cards after an ebay sale. All that just to maybe, maybe, make a few extra bucks?...Not worth it to me.

RonBurgundy

I wouldn't grade any of that stuff right now. For commons, I'll send in pre-56 material if I think it will go 7, but other than that nothing goes to Newport Beach unless I think it will go 8. Exceptions are low pop commons that carry a premium in 7 as well as 8.




RB

RipublicaninMass

<< <i>I wouldn't grade any of that stuff right now. For commons, I'll send in pre-56 material if I think it will go 7, but other than that nothing goes to Newport Beach unless I think it will go 8. Exceptions are low pop commons that carry a premium in 7 as well as 8.




RB >>




ditto, check out VCP for your year and type and put PSA 7 or 6 and search the last 100 or so sales as to which cards consitently sell for a premium

Mickey71

Monday July 14, 2008 9:36 AM (NEW!)

Exactly RB.

I wouldn't grade any of that stuff right now. For commons, I'll send in pre-56 material if I think it will go 7, but other than that nothing goes to Newport Beach unless I think it will go 8. Exceptions are low pop commons that carry a premium in 7 as well as 8.

123Slider

Thanks for your thoughts. I guess I'll try an order of ones I think are 7 or higher and go from there.

Chad

Estil

<< <i>My only reply would be that you have to grade the 52's if they are at least in the 5 range. Thanks to a lot of reprint sets that, excuse the eBay line, do not say reprint on the back, intelligent set collectors usually avoid the raw cards on this set. >>



Indeed. I mean, I'm only doing 70s sets, yet for any cards worth $8 or more (or $25+ for non-HOF high numbers) and pretty much all HOFers from 1972 on back, I insist on getting in PSA 7. Especially for 1971's where people have been known to recolor/doctor them. Basically I'm taking no chances. If you're going to invest good money in cards, be sure you're getting the real deal, and getting them in reputable graded form is the way to go (as you can easily find a grade that's within your price range for the most part; there's no law saying you must get 9's and 10's).