I want to start on 1971 Topps later this year; should I do an EXMT set or NRMT set (w/ key cards gra

Estil

As you guys know, 1975 Topps is my all time favorite 1970s set, but now that I've got that all but wrapped up (the Fred Lynn RC in PSA 7 is the key missing link), I want to perhaps get started later this year on my second favorite 1970s set, 1971 Topps. I thought I'd ask for some advice here where there are no doubt some people who are very experienced in 1971's; both graded and raw.

My main question is this, should I do a NRMT set w/ key cards graded PSA 7 or an EXMT set w/ key cards graded PSA 6? I also want to know what will be an estimated price difference b/t the two, as that will be the key deciding factor. By key cards I mean any that book for at least $25-$30 in the Beckett Almanac (for my 1974-79 sets I get all the $10+ cards in PSA 7). Obviously it'll be especially essential to get the key 1971's in graded form seeing as how retouching/recoloring the borders is a big problem with this set, thus making buying key cards in raw form much too risky.

This would be quite a fun and challenging project, and my wife is on board with this as well. Once I get a few more holes plugged in my other collecting projects, I should probably be able to focus on this more or less exclusively.

PS: Obviously trying to get ALL the cards in graded form or the keys in anything higher than a 7 is entirely out of the question.

NickM

There are big price differences between PSA 6 and PSA 7 on many key 1971 cards. How much money are you willing to spend on your set?
BTW, there are a lot of recolored raw commons floating around, so you need to be careful on those too.

Nick

augustaman

As Nick stated, recoloring is a big problem with the '71s.
You really need to do you homework on these. Personally,
I would never buy a raw '71 on-line without being able
to inspect the card first. There's just too many altered cards
out there in the market.

Estil

All the more reason to get the keys in graded form. After all, if you're going to get burned on a recolored card, wouldn't you rather it be a cheap common instead of a HOF rookie or something? Isn't it true you can use a blacklamp to detect most recoloring?

As for "how much I'm willing to spend"; it depends on the price difference b/t a EXMT set w/ PSA 6 keys versus a NRMT set w/ PSA 7 keys.

Cincykid8123

I've been working on this set for nearly 2 years, buying both raw and graded cards. I've bought both locally and on Ebay. In the 1,200 plus cards that I've purchased, I've gotton 3 touched-up cards. One was a Garvey rookie which the seller allowed me to return for a full refund.

It's very tough and very expensive..especially the hi# sp's. Slow process to say the least in NM or better.

sbtrailrider

So I found a guy w/ a nearly complete set of 71's - $500 - in VG to VGEX condition. Assuming the top 20 best cards are not there, how does this price look?

Estil

A bit too high; on Ebay EX-EXMT sets typically go for no around $800-$1000. A complete set in VGEX condition would probably be about right at $500. It's when you start getting up to NRMT/MT territory or higher that the price starts to really jump.

Can anyone show me from the SMR the PSA 6 vs PSA 7 prices for the key cards in this set? Then I should have an idea of which one I should go for later this year. A NRMT set w/ PSA 7 keys would be nice but I'm afraid it too will probably be out of my price range.

Cincykid8123

I've found that the pursuit of this set in nm/mint has been as enjoyable as anything. You really do start to develope on eye for the stuff that you want for your set and the filler type stuff.

Bosox1976

SMR for 6's is roughly half that of 7's for 71's. Some rookies are a little higher, minor stars a little lower.

Estil

<< <i>SMR for 6's is roughly half that of 7's for 71's. Some rookies are a little higher, minor stars a little lower. >>



So more than likely I'll have to do an EXMT set w/ key 6's than a NRMT set w/ key 7's it seems. But does an EXMT set still look at least fairly nice with those black borders, or does the set really have to be NRMT/MT to really do it justice in terms of appearance?

FB

You may want to consider doing and EXMT TO NRMT set with keys in PSA 6 or INEXPENSIVE 7. Sticking within one small grade range could cost you more in the long run. Just pick a price for the 7's that you'd consider bidding on and stick with it. Prices fluctuate and some 7's go lower than you'd expect from time to time. Also - centeringis a big deal to a lot of people. So - if you're looking to sell down the road - a mostly well centered set will have more eye appeal than one where the centering is all over the place.

Frank

imafishinnut

I completed my PSA 7+ set in March 2005. At the time, I completed it at about 70% of the SMR value. I think 60% to 80% of SMR value is a realistic goal for the set in PSA 7 if you are patient and willing to wait for your price. There has been an influx of graded 1971 cards in the past few years as evidence by the registry leader board. When completed, my set was ranked in the top 10; however, it is now barely in the top 25.

My suggestions would be as follows:

1. Buy large graded lots. Large graded lots can generally be picked up for well below SMR. Duplicates can be sold to fund purchases of new cards.

2. Work with the other set registry members for the set. Frequently, they have extras that they are willing to sell without going through the hassle of Ebay.

3. Definitely do a completely graded set, but do it at your own pace. Expect for it to take you 2 to 3 years to complete on a budget. It is very satisfying when you have completed your set.

4. Don't preclude yourself from buying higher grade cards (e.g., PSA 8s). Sometimes you can pick them up cheaply as well during slower Ebay periods.

5. Avoid the tough cards until the end. The last 5% will take nearly as long as the first 95% to collect on a budget.

6. Learn the tough cards and watch for lots with the tough cards. Frequently the tough cards can be picked up in large lots at much cheaper prices.

Here is a link to my set with scans of every card:

My Set

Good Luck with Your Set!
Mike

Estil

You do realize I only want the key cards in PSA 6 or 7, right? There's no way I could do ALL the set graded.

Cincykid8123

Frustrations for me in putting together this set can be summed up in two words:

Qualls
Maye

Estil

BTW Mike, I've seen your set and it truely looks fantastic. You must be very proud of it.

Other than Mike, who are the other big time 1971 collectors around here?

imafishinnut

Thanks for the compliment on my set. I really enjoyed putting the set together as it is my favorite set of all time. Not sure, if or when, I will put another complete set together like it. I started the 1972 set, but ended up giving up on it because I had too many other project (2002 Studio Private Signings set, Wade Boggs player sets, Jim Palmer basic set, etc.) Think the 1971 set is condition sensitive, check out the 2002 Studio Private Signings pop report... LOL PSA 8s for a 2002 card is the norm. At this point, I am just trying to add as many PSA/DNA autographed cards to my 1971 set as I can find. Eventually, I would like to add a PSA graded wax pack from each series.

Regards,
Mike

Buccaneer

Estil, I'm glad to see you wanting to take up this journey. My set, Ex-NmMT, is just about done but I only have kept 3 cards graded. The main reason is that I built 90% of this set in the 1980s. I have upgraded many of the lower-mid grade raws from once impeccable source but I am happy with the set as is. It's really great to not have to worry about what PSA thinks about my set, except for the few key cards, so I would build it the fun way, but picking up lots and individuals and watching your sheets get filled in.

Estil

I have done some comparisions on Ebay on how PSA 6's look versus PSA 7's and I must say there are still some awfully good looking 6's out there. I figure if I choose carefully I can still get 6's that look just as nice as 7's in terms of border/corner quality, if you're willing to sacrifice a bit on centering. These are the cards I know I should most definetly get as PSA 6's (included is the Beckett Almanac book value):

All these have at least a $40 BV and MUST be graded:
--------------------------------------------------------------------
005 Thurman Munson solo RC $120
020 Reggie Jackson $50
100 Pete Rose $50
250 Johnny Bench $50
341 Steve Garvey RC $40
400 Hank Aaron $60
513 Nolan Ryan $150
525 Ernie Banks $50
600 Willie Mays $100
630 Roberto Clemente $150
709 Don Baylor/Dusty Baker RC $80

All these have a $25-$30 BV and are optional:
-----------------------------------------------------------
160 Tom Seaver $30
530 Carl Yastrzemski $30
550 Harmon Killebrew $25
570 Jim Palmer $30
648 Ted Martinez $25 (who???)
650 Rich Allen $30
688 Sparky Anderson $30
700 Boog Powell $25
740 Luis Aparico $30
750 Denny McClain $25

So if I'm going for 6's instead of 7's, should I use half these BV's as a barometer for how much 6's should go for (remember I'm not in that PSA club so I don't have access to that SMR thing)? Also, should I start with getting the raw cards first or the graded ones first?

nam812

<< <i>648 Ted Martinez $25 (who???) >>



That is Jon Matlack's rookie card, and it is a short printed high number.

Estil

<< <i>

<< <i>648 Ted Martinez $25 (who???) >>



That is Jon Matlack's rookie card, and it is a short printed high number. >>



I know, this will be my first time dealing with those evil high numbers.