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1968 Experts Should I grade these?

easydoesiteasydoesit Posts: 547
in Trading Cards & Memorabilia Forum
About three years ago I bought a deal at a show of nrmt or better 68 topps. Then last week I picked up some more. I have sat down with my loop, such as it is, and looked closely at these. The wierd dot patterns make it hard to see what is wear and what is dot. Anyway I have narrowed 500 cards down to these 18. I know the Ryan is at best a 7 but I want it slabbed. What do you think on the others? After checking ebay it doesn't seem to pay to grade if you get 8s, you really need 9s on 68s to make some money. What I want to do is grade these 18, sell all but the Ryan and hopefully do well enough to buy what I need to finish the set. What do you think?

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"I put my pants on just like you... One leg at a time. The differences is when I put them on, I make gold records."

Comments

  • ElectricPruneElectricPrune Posts: 376 ✭
    The 68s are impossible to grade via a scan. The Pascual and Allen are very nice cards in 9. Most of the others are decent to have in 9. 8s for most of those would only get you 4-8 bucks probably. They Ryan has great centering. How does it measure?
    #10 PSA Set for Topps Baseball currently on eBay under seller deeppurple1.
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    Go for it.




    Steve
    Good for you.
  • easydoesiteasydoesit Posts: 547
    The Ryan has three great corners and one with a little fuzz under magnification. I think 6 for sure and maybe 7. If I got 7 I would probably sell, rebuy the 6 and use the extra money for more highs.

    Chris
    "I put my pants on just like you... One leg at a time. The differences is when I put them on, I make gold records."
  • easydoesiteasydoesit Posts: 547
    Anyother thoughts from 1968 experts?
    "I put my pants on just like you... One leg at a time. The differences is when I put them on, I make gold records."
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    To be honest I have no idea regarding this issue. IMO I'd grade just the Ryan.

    Are you grading for resale? If so then I'd check the pop report and
    ebay completed auctions.

    Sorry I have no idea.


    Steve
    Good for you.
  • lilmulelilmule Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭✭
    I would guess all 7's and 8's possible couple little higher I would have to have a close pic of the back to really tell.
    Knotty Hobby Woodworks
    Vintage Rookies
  • easydoesiteasydoesit Posts: 547
    If they are all 7s and 8s then it is a waste of money. My feeling is 9s seem to do well. 1 psa 9 of anyone would about pay for the group and 2 9s could make me some money. I am not selling the Ryan that is for me. If you don't think I have at least two 9s then I would say it is a waste of money and time to grade. Agree/ disagree discuss.
    "I put my pants on just like you... One leg at a time. The differences is when I put them on, I make gold records."
  • stownstown Posts: 11,321 ✭✭✭
    Save your money on the Buzhardt and send it to me, please.

    image
    So basically my kid won't be able to go to college, but at least I'll have a set where the three most expensive cards are of a player I despise ~ CDsNuts
  • SportsItUpCardsSportsItUpCards Posts: 2,547
    First card is a PSA 7.5 IMO or a PRO 10 image

    Nice card!

    Giovanni
  • stevekstevek Posts: 29,226 ✭✭✭✭✭
    <<< I have sat down with my loop, such as it is, and looked closely at these. The wierd dot patterns make it hard to see what is wear and what is dot. >>>

    Learn the way I first learned about basic grading - buy some PSA 68 Topps cards off ebay - some 7's, 8's and 9's and then you'll understand better what corner wear looks like which is a major factor in high grade cards. Then you'll basically know what cards to send in to PSA that are "worth it" - Frankly, many times a newbie to grading will initially "think" their cards are 8's and 9's when in reality usually their cards are 7's at best and sometimes even 6's or lower. In any event...Good luck with the grades!



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  • stevekstevek Posts: 29,226 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i><<< I have sat down with my loop, such as it is, and looked closely at these. The wierd dot patterns make it hard to see what is wear and what is dot. >>>

    Learn the way I first learned about basic grading - buy some PSA 68 Topps cards off ebay - some 7's, 8's and 9's and then you'll understand better what corner wear looks like which is a major factor in high grade cards. Then you'll basically know what cards to send in to PSA that are "worth it" - Frankly, many times a newbie to grading will initially "think" their cards are 8's and 9's when in reality usually their cards are 7's at best and sometimes even 6's or lower. In any event...Good luck with the grades! >>



    Also - If you choose to do this but want to save money, just buy OC (off center) cards which can be bought relatively cheap. For example the corner wear will be basically identical with an OC 9 to a regular 9, but the price will be considerably less.


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  • gemintgemint Posts: 6,107 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It would be good to see the back of the Ryan. The left edge looks wavey. Maybe it's the scan but make sure it isn't trimmed. Good luck!
    https://ebay.com/sch/gemint/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
  • storm888storm888 Posts: 11,701 ✭✭✭
    I would send the Ryan, AND any of the others that I want slabbed.

    It probably would not be a money-making project to slab them all,
    but if you like them better slabbed.....do it.
    Folks Who Bite Get Bitten. Folks Who Don't Bite Get Eaten.
  • leathtechleathtech Posts: 3,191 ✭
    I would send the Ryan for sure just to have it slabbed. Other than that I would suggest picking out 3-4 of the others that you think are the best and see what happens.
    image
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