Baseball Card Guy with Question #2 about silver coins (with edit)

EchoCanyon

UPDATE:

I have 37 rolls of silver dimes -- 34 say Roosevelt, 2 says Liberty and 1 is mixed (31 Liberty and 19 Roosevelt)
The Liberty dimes are from the 40s (someone asked me on yesterday's post), I saw 1942, 1943 and 1944 on a few.

And 17 rolls of quarters, which range from 1934 - 1964 (I originally said 1945, but saw a roll with dates from the 30s)
Some are all the same year (like a roll of 1964) and other are split,
one roll says:
4 1950 D, 2 1951 D, 9 1951 D, 4 1952 D, 7 1952 plain, 1 1953, 8 1953 D, 5 1954.

Yesterday, many people said I should expect 13x (or better).

Here's my questions:
Are any specific coins worth more (like a Mantle or Mays is worth $$ in cards)?
Is it worth selling this as a lot? Or individual rolls?

Thanks in advance.

SilverEagles92

There are a few coins that stick out to me that are worth more in circulated grades than melt value.

1916D Mercury Dime
1921D Mercury Dime
1942/1 Mercury Dime

1932D Washington Quarter
1932S Wahington Quarter

I'm sure there are more, but those stick out off the top of my head. You can use somewhere like www.coinfacts.com to find out more information on these coins if you need to.

Hope this helps!

Russ

Based on the date ranges you outlined, it is probably a waste of time searching for anything of value. If you're planning to sell to a dealer, most will pay higher multiples for larger quantities so you would want to sell the whole wad at once.

Russ, NCNE

jpo1965

A 1945 FB merc would be huge

EchoCanyon

What's FB?

And anything of value from the 30's (saw a roll with dates from 34-42)

droopyd

Here's some prices for circulated coins:

Mercury Dimes

Roosevelt Dimes

Washington Quarters

Should give you an idea of dates that command premiums.

Deadhorse

<< <i>Here's some prices for circulated coins:

Mercury Dimes

Roosevelt Dimes

Washington Quarters

Should give you an idea of dates that command premiums. >>





Those prices are rather inflated, some are very inflated by 200-300%.

I'd love to get some of those prices for what are basically 90% melt coins.

Is that what they are selling them for?

The OP shouldn't take that as gospel.

He'll have an impossible time getting those prices for his coins and it might leave a bad taste in his mouth thinking he was being cheated.

Just figure melt value for anything that isn't MS grade or a condition rarity.

13 X face would be a good price, doubt you can find it from most B&M shops. 12.5 to 12.7 X face would be more likely.

I buy them all the time, I'd be interested, he could PM me. The BST board might be a good place as well.

The OP could hold them as silver is going to continue to rise overall for several more years.

Just a week ago Monday the big wholesale houses issued new wider spread guidelines and so prices on 90% melt coins continue to drop in relation to the spot price.

Liberties/Mercurys have no premium anymore unless you have a rare numismatic piece.

Not trying to rain on anybodies parade, just trying to be realistic here.

lordmarcovan

<< <i>What's FB? >>



That's grading nomenclature for "Full Bands". (Usually applied only to Uncirculated coins). The horizontal bands across the fasces on the reverse were not always fully struck, so coins with full split bands demand a small premium in some cases, and a large premium in others. For some reason, the 1945 coins are very difficult to find with full split bands. Determining what and what is not FB is not easy for the uninitiated, however. Heck, even for some fully initiated folk like myself, it isn't easy. But it is a cinch for the Mercury dime specialist collectors.



<< <i>Are any specific coins worth more (like a Mantle or Mays is worth $$ in cards)? >>

While I'm not a cardboard collector (tee-hee- we poke fun at y'all sometimes, but in good spirit), we certainly have our Mantles and our Mays and our Honus Wagner equivalents. Maybe even more big ticket items than there are in the cards.



<< <i>(saw a roll with dates from 34-42) >>

This is pretty typical, since 1934 is the divide. Very generally speaking, prior to 1934, they're a little bit better to have, and from 1934 on, they tend to be more common. After 1940, they get really common, because the Mint cranked out some huge quantities in the war years.

droopyd

<< <i>Is that what they are selling them for?

The OP shouldn't take that as gospel.

He'll have an impossible time getting those prices for his coins and it might leave a bad taste in his mouth thinking he was being cheated.

Just figure melt value for anything that isn't MS grade or a condition rarity. >>




This is a "retail price guide" that is no better or worse than any of the others out there. As such it is the price one might be expected to pay at retail, not the price one might expect to obtain from selling to someone other then the end consumer/collector.

It was intended to "give [OP] an idea of dates that command premiums" so that he can dispose of those coins separately, as they have a numismatic value above melt value. Clearly, as noted in the price guide, all but a handful of dates listed in grades below AU/MS command little to no premium over melt even at the retail level.

Question for EchoCanyon -- are these coins uncirculated/mint state, or are they circulated (worn, even slightly)? To use a card grading analogy, even a common card that grades a "10" might be worth a premium, but one that grades only an "8" certainly won't be. However, a rare card that grades a "4" will still be worth money even though it is far from pristine.