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Pics with new DinoLite 411T microscope (DIALUP WARNING)
coinpictures
Posts: 5,345 ✭✭✭
[Duplicate of a thread I made on the lightside.]
Got my DinoLite 411T and stand from Mohawk Medical today ($368 shipped). After I let the equipment
thaw out, I installed the drivers, the software, and away we went. Very easy to use
on default settings, but there doesn't appear to be any manual or Help for the software.
Documentation would be helpful, as there appear to be a wide range of options, some of
which I have no clue what they do:
Also, the biggest problem I ran into was glare and overexposure, especially on slabs.
I was under the impression that you could turn individual lights on and off, but it appears
that it's an all-or-nothing proposition.
That minor complaint aside, this thing is *WAY* cool. The focus is better than any other
scope I've tried. Caveat: The farther you get away from a coin, the shallower the focus depth,
meaning a bare jiggle of the scope and you're out of focus. Granted, distance shots are
not what the scope is intended for. The fact that it can keep items that are 3-5 inches away
in focus at all is impressive.
I don't overly care for the stand I got; it jiggles too much and it is difficult to get distances
and angles exactly correct. Seems to me that a copy stand or something more rigid would result
in easier fine tuning.
Detail is the strong point... surfaces, lustre, and color accuracy are not... to be expected.
The shots below (and there are a bunch) are completely unedited in Photoshop. No cropping,
scaling, sharpening, color adjustment, or contrast, etc. Raw images right from the scope.
The only thing I did was convert them from native BMP to JPEG.
Some of the shots are slightly out of focus and not framed properly, but given that this was
a quick and dirty first use of the scope, I'm pleased with what it is capable of.
Overall, this is a keeper!
1854 1/2 dime
1843 British Half Farthing. Problematic because of the slab, for two reasons:
1. Glare
2. Cannot get close enough to the actual coin to get a true closeup (see last pic).
1885 Morgan Dollar.
1906-D German Half Mark
German New Guinea 1894 5 Marks
French Indo-China 1 Piastre
(the next two shots were taken using "low light" mode.)
U.S. Large Cent, 1838.
Got my DinoLite 411T and stand from Mohawk Medical today ($368 shipped). After I let the equipment
thaw out, I installed the drivers, the software, and away we went. Very easy to use
on default settings, but there doesn't appear to be any manual or Help for the software.
Documentation would be helpful, as there appear to be a wide range of options, some of
which I have no clue what they do:
Also, the biggest problem I ran into was glare and overexposure, especially on slabs.
I was under the impression that you could turn individual lights on and off, but it appears
that it's an all-or-nothing proposition.
That minor complaint aside, this thing is *WAY* cool. The focus is better than any other
scope I've tried. Caveat: The farther you get away from a coin, the shallower the focus depth,
meaning a bare jiggle of the scope and you're out of focus. Granted, distance shots are
not what the scope is intended for. The fact that it can keep items that are 3-5 inches away
in focus at all is impressive.
I don't overly care for the stand I got; it jiggles too much and it is difficult to get distances
and angles exactly correct. Seems to me that a copy stand or something more rigid would result
in easier fine tuning.
Detail is the strong point... surfaces, lustre, and color accuracy are not... to be expected.
The shots below (and there are a bunch) are completely unedited in Photoshop. No cropping,
scaling, sharpening, color adjustment, or contrast, etc. Raw images right from the scope.
The only thing I did was convert them from native BMP to JPEG.
Some of the shots are slightly out of focus and not framed properly, but given that this was
a quick and dirty first use of the scope, I'm pleased with what it is capable of.
Overall, this is a keeper!
1854 1/2 dime
1843 British Half Farthing. Problematic because of the slab, for two reasons:
1. Glare
2. Cannot get close enough to the actual coin to get a true closeup (see last pic).
1885 Morgan Dollar.
1906-D German Half Mark
German New Guinea 1894 5 Marks
French Indo-China 1 Piastre
(the next two shots were taken using "low light" mode.)
U.S. Large Cent, 1838.
0
Comments
Thanks for sharing your experience with this item!
John
SFC, US Army (Ret.) 1974-1994
"Ask, and it shall be given you; seek, and ye shall find; knock, and it shall be opened unto you." -Luke 11:9
"Hear, O Israel: The LORD our God is one LORD: And thou shalt love the LORD thy God with all thine heart, and with all thy soul, and with all thy might." -Deut. 6:4-5
"For the LORD is our judge, the LORD is our lawgiver, the LORD is our king; He will save us." -Isaiah 33:22
<< <i>Wow, that is incredible! It will definitely make variety attribution, such as recut dates, much easier. >>
Yup. May be an eyesight saver in the long run as well.
I have a quarter bag of wheat cents that I bought from a local source about 8 years ago, of which 90% are 1944-D. I'm assuming that someone either put these aside to look for 44 D/S overdates or this is the leftovers from such a search. Normally I'd give myself a migraine by trying to search through that many coins looking for details that small, but assuming that I can get the scope positioned and focused just right, it would be simply a matter of sliding a coin under the scope, waiting for focus (2-3 seconds to stabilize) and then on to the next coin.
1/2 Cents
U.S. Revenue Stamps
Goodluck !!
I *MUST* get one of those
now, we'll finally be able to tell die polish vs. cleaning... .you'll see the polish lines like they were mount everest above the coin surface
You can see the metal flow in some of those shots.....
try playing around with different angles and you should be able to some glare from the LED lights. I'm not a big fan of LED lighting, can you turn them off and use your own lighting?
Thanks for this post, its fantastic...