Just like 1975, I also want to do the key 1976-79 cards graded too; should I go with 7's or 8's?

Estil

Okay, as some of you in this congregation know, I just started on a 1975 Topps set that's mostly raw NRMT, but for this set I'm trying to get the key cards in PSA 7 condition. I was also thinking of doing the same with my 1976-79 sets, but the question there is, should I do 7's or 8's?

For 1978-79, I have an absoulte blazer of a 1978 Topps set (it's by far the best of the four) so I'm thinking about joining the PSA club next month and submit its five key cards (Murray/Molitor RC's, Ryan, Ryan RB, Brett) along with a 1975 Topps Schmidt that I received raw that I think has a chance at an 8 (though of course I'll be more than content with a 7 in that case). Now, if say, 4/5 of those key 1978's come back 8's, then I'll most definetly do 1978-79 keys in 8's, seeing as how there's only two (Ryan/Ozzie) in the 1979. If not, then perhaps I should do the keys in 7's.

As for 1976-77, I'm currently leaning towards doing 7's, but since 1977 doesn't have hardly any expensive cards (even the key Dawson/Murphy rookies are only worth $20 and $15 in the Beckett Almanac), then perhaps 8's might be affordable enough. For 1976's, there's five cards that book for $25-$30, and four more that book for $15, so I think I'll have to settle for 7's there as well.

I guess what it boils down to is how big a difference in price is it to do 7's vs. 8's for key late 1970s cards. Another difference is the eye appeal of 7's vs. 8's. I figured if anyone here can answer these questions, it's those of you here who are experienced in dealing with graded cards.

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1977 Topps
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450 Pete Rose
473 Andre Dawson RC
476 Dale Murphy RC
650 Nolan Ryan
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006 Nolan Ryan LDR
144 Bruce Sutter RC
234 Nolan Ryan RB
580 George Brett

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1978 Topps
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036 Eddie Murray RC
707 Paul Molitor RC
400 Nolan Ryan
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006 Nolan Ryan RB
100 George Brett

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1979 Topps
==========
116 Ozzie Smith RC
115 Nolan Ryan

WinPitcher

Estil it depends, are you simply collecting them or are you sorta investing too?

If it was me, I'd find the best 7's or if I could nice 8's for the right price. If you are into these for investment I think you need 9's and 10's for that.


Steve

perkdog

Go with 7's! This will leave you with more money to spread around on more cards for your collection.

Estil

<< <i>Estil it depends, are you simply collecting them or are you sorta investing too?

If it was me, I'd find the best 7's or if I could nice 8's for the right price. If you are into these for investment I think you need 9's and 10's for that.


Steve >>



No, just collecting. Like I said before, IMO, the only good sports card investment is in unopened material. Compare what even 9's/10's go for today (particuarly 70s/80s) now vs. five and ten years ago and you'll see what I mean.

Estil

<< <i>Go with 7's! This will leave you with more money to spread around on more cards for your collection. >>



That was my first instinct too. In fact, my rule of thumb is to "match the decade"; that is, do 7's for 70s keys and 8's for 80s keys. That seems to be the par grades, is it not?

Another reason may be that for those on here who have more "gorumet" tastes and don't want anything less than 9s/10s, and might have some 7's (from an unlucky sub) they may be willing to give free or charge very little for. So it sounds like I should definetly go for 7's for 1976-77 for sure. But let's say I do in fact get 8's for my key 1978's (though I think they also got a chance at 9's too; the set is really that good)? Would the price difference be worth it to sell the 8's and replace with 7's?