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How many points difference in PCI and PCGS?

Hi all. I'm sorry for the nieve question, but do any of you more seasoned collectors have any experience submitting PCI coins for cross-grading to PCGS. Is there a consensus numerical difference in grade of a point or two, or is every case different. I am most curious about how each one grades modern coinage. Don
Developing theory is what we are meant to do as academic researchers
and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor

Comments

  • No consistent difference, in my experience. I've had coins upgrade, downgrade, and not cross at all (questionable color).
  • PS -- If you're trying to cross an MS70 or PR70, save your money. image
  • braddickbraddick Posts: 24,116 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Tad's right! Not only will PCGS NOT cross a 70 even if it was, but PCI has been blowing it lately by slabbing a bunch of nonsense as PR70.
    They're etching away at their credibility.

    Now, circulated coinage, that's different. PCI can be dead on when it comes to coins between AG03 up to XF45. In some cases, their AU50 coins have labored into MS holders elsewhere!

    peacockcoins

  • lordmarcovanlordmarcovan Posts: 43,562 ✭✭✭✭✭
    As mentioned previously, PCI is not exactly consistent in their grading, so it is hard to say how wide a spread there is. Before going strictly PCGS, I had no problem with buying coins in PCI (green label) holders, but I doubt I will ever submit to them again after the 15-point lowballing they gave some of my old type coins. They really gave me a bloody nose on coins that even NGC graded far higher on a second attempt. I suppose they are trying to get a reputation for being strict, but in my opinion they went too far at my expense (five points, OK - ten points, maybe, but fifteen points lower than the other services, and you lose my business). I also had a cleaned coin that even SEGS noted as cleaned, but PCI did not (they gave it a green label). This time the inconsistency was in my favor, but it still didn't look good to me. Differences in the high Mint State grades are tough to spot, but anyone who can't tell the difference between EF45 and MS60 needs to quit grading.

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  • DHeathDHeath Posts: 8,472 ✭✭✭
    Thanks All. I believe your advice will save me alot of money and aggrevation. I don't have the expertise to distinguish an MS-68 from an MS-69, but I do know the difference in price. I hope to look back at my purchases 10 years from now when I do have a better eye and still like my coins.
    Developing theory is what we are meant to do as academic researchers
    and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor
  • Hi Don, not that you asked, and I don't know what coins you're talking about, but if you can't tell the difference I'd buy the cheaper one!

    Until you can determine the merits of the coin for yourself you'll be at the mercy of the seller and/or slab label and are bound to make some mistakes. Better to make the learning curve less costly.

    Slabs have a number of advantages, but you're in a much stronger position if you just use the slab label to confirm what you already believe. Even in the most prestigous holder, just because a coin is in an MS69 holder doesn't mean it's necessarily a better coin than another MS68. And whoever's slab you buy it might not be around 10 years from now to back it up.

    Finally, keep in mind that as a coin buyer, you're able to spend a lot more time studying the coin than the grading service did. With practice and specialization you can likely grade at least, if not more, consistently than a grading service.
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