submission question

Morganmanic

This is strictly a money play question and not a question concerning high dollar older coins. (which I prefer but of which I can not afford most

So here is the question What modern coin/coins would you submit for gradeing to try and maximize the selling price and turn the most profit in the next year or two?

78750Aggie

Nice question, and if I could piggy back a question:

In a personal collection, which coins would you be inclined to have graded and slabbed...key dates, older coins, perceived higher grades? I've got just over 600 coins and can't afford to have them all graded.

Swampboy

<< <i>This is strictly a money play question and not a question concerning high dollar older coins. (which I prefer but of which I can not afford most

So here is the question What modern coin/coins would you submit for gradeing to try and maximize the selling price and turn the most profit in the next year or two? >>



You know I have a lot of respect for the forum members who get moderns slabbed and know what they are doing.

I think they could tell what series they have had or hope to have success with but I don't think it's a simple as that.

You probably know that already but that's just my two cents.

Bochiman

First question: Really depends. Did you buy the modern from the mint? Are you talking ultra-modern? Did you pay a premium in the aftermarket?
I would slab the 3pc AGE/ASE sets, esp if you can get "1st Strike" on them. The AGE is doing ok, it seems, and the ASE set would be killer to get MS70 on the 2006-W. I still have 6 sets unopened but don't feel like the gamble right now (and, they aren't 1st strike)

Other moderns.....not worth playing that game as a gamble for money, right now, unless you get them at cost. Things like the smooth edge pres dollars would be good. High end moderns (if you define moderns as being 1964-present) are fine as well. But, none I would play with unless you get straight from the mint and flip right away or can afford to hold.

Second question: The keys. no doubt. If problem-free, go for PCGS. If cleaned/scratched, I would go NCS or ANACS. Some prefer one over the other. ANACS is fine for me on this. Shows authenticity and gets them protected in a slab.
After that, high dollar/high grade coins. Don't want anything happening to them and, at high grades, buyers will trust PCGS/NGC before they trust most individuals selling them raw.

For example.....if I have a MS67FB Roosevelt, from most any years, and PCGS/NGC agree, then I can sell for 3 figures, at least. If I have the same coin raw, I can likely only get 1/2, or a lot less, of that.
Same with Franklins and FBL (particularly 1952-S and some others).

Toned coins, where you know it is natural, are another thing to think of. If you go to sell, some will think "AT" no matter what. By having it slabbed (if you are successful), it is now market acceptable to most all but the most jaded among us.

Remember that "old" doesn't always mean "valuable". I am sure many of us on here have old coins but, due to the grade or some problem, the value is pretty small, whereas many also have modern, but high grade coins, that may have BILLIONS out there, but due to the slab and the high grade given, it is worth a nice amount (2006-W ASE in PCGS MS70 anyone? ).

Type2

On the 1st post you need to see what is comeing out in the next year or two and then you can grab all you can of that hot item and flip it and keep some that cost you 0$ and do it over ,over. Next post #2 if you have key dates and you know they will grade do it but some coin that are not keys may hold a premium if in high grades so you need to look at them and see if they are one or the other or bouth.