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Keep the tape for the holidays!


The most important thing is CYA. If you are selling a low value card why would you want to charge 3 or more for shipping? In my opinion the best way to ship a card that would be in your dollar box at the flea market is the following....Penny sleeve......top loader......team bag. DO NOT USE TAPE! I REPEAT DO NOT USE TAPE!!!! If you follow this method usually the card arrives in great shape- if you use tape instead of a team bag you are setting yourself up for a bad sale...i.e... card will shift and get stuck to the tape. And nobody wants to pay money for a card that arrives in the mail ruined! For " better" cards see above and use a bubble mailer which I feel a 3 dollar charge is justified considering the time and expense involved. Also unless you use delivery confirmation Paypal will not back you up (no proof of mailing) which kind of makes 1.00 shipping not cost effective. If this happens just refund the buyer his money as I feel it is not worth the hassle. Opinions?
USN 1977-1987 * ALL cards are commons unless auto'd. Buying Britneycards. NWO for life.

Comments

  • Agree completely with the tape. I've had a few cards stick to it over the years but only one with significant damage. Tape and condition sensitive foil edges don't mix. Tape is safe so long as the seller pinches the top loader tight otherwise damage is possible. When I sell cards I use new top loaders and seal them with a team bag. This leaves a good impression for the buyer. Every now and then I get a nice card in a crappy holder and I don't get that great first impression. Then again, I'm buying the card and not the holder.

    I generally agree with most of your shipping logic. Buyers of $2 cards are going to shy away from $3 shipping. I still ship everything in a bubble mailer since I can get a box of 25 at Sam's Club for under $5. You can ship one card in a bubble for the large envelop rate of 80 cents. I also skip all the extra mailing services like DC when shipping the cheap stuff. This allows me to keep shipping rates around $2 and still pocket listing and Paypal fees as well as the cost of the holders. If I sell a more expensive card requiring additional seller protection then I will charge more for shipping. Of the 5,000 or so packages I've sent out over the last decade I've only had one where the customer allegedly didn't receive. That customer left a negative before even asking for a refund. If someone does not get a $2 card then I would simply give a refund without question. Every now and then I get a $2 card in the mail with DC and I'm thinking what is the point? The seller would have been better off either pocketing that expense or passing savings to the buyer. Extra mailing services are designed to protect buyer and seller but I don't think people need to be protected from a $2 loss. If I used DC on 100 packages of cheap cards it would cost $75 for DC using the standard form or APC and $18 using Paypal shipping (but I would have to mail at the higher parcel rate and screw around with 3/4 inch thickness requirements). Since I've only experienced a net loss of $ZERO over 10 years I would be foolish to purchase the extra service. More money in my pocket or the less I need to charge for shipping resulting in more bidding action. I would definately agree fighting with a customer over $2 is not worth the hassel and in the long run not good for business.

    On a related note, I have been buying far less cards on eBay of late as shipping rates for the stuff I collect have exceeded the cost of the cards I like. I now have to be patient and wait for the cheap shipper or bite it when I really want a particular card. I'm sure many other bidders are in the same boat. I usually avoid sellers who refuse to combine shipping or have rediculous rates when they do. I never quite understood why someone needs to charge more than pocket change for each additional lower value card. Of course, any buyer should factor in shipping when placing a bid and if the combined price is cheap then you might as well jump on it.
    "One you start thinking you're the best then you might as well quit because you wont get any better" - Dale Earnhardt
  • metalmikemetalmike Posts: 2,152 ✭✭
    I tend to stay away from graded cards myself, to me cards are toys. Keep the gum and save the cards for me..(rockstar)
    USN 1977-1987 * ALL cards are commons unless auto'd. Buying Britneycards. NWO for life.
  • lostdart58lostdart58 Posts: 2,938 ✭✭✭
    Solution to the tape problem: Put card in top loader, wrap POST-IT-NOTE over open end of top loader, use small amount of tape on non-stuck end of POST-IT-NOTE attaching it to top loader...........

    Tape never gets near card as POST-IT-Note just peals off from top loader very easy.
    Collector of:Baseball
    1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better

    Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
    Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
    Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete


  • I like the team bag. I have to say I bought 6 dollar cards from a guy who combined shipping on up to six cards. I was hoping to maybe get lucky with a flip. Much to my chagrin the cards arrived paired in cardsavers, two a piece. Needless to say no flips, and he won't be getting my bussiness anymore.
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