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Considering Building a 1954 Topps Set from scratch

I am seriously contemplating putting together a 1954 topps set, mostly raw in psa4-5 range. I plan to purchase the big hitters (mays,aaron, williams,kaline, banks) in psa holders (mainly to avoid counterfeits), but hopefully the rest I will just piece together in raw format.

I am wondering if anyone else has done this recently and if they have any advice - I've never built a set prior to 1970. I plan to pick up lots as available and then sell off the dupes to help defray the costs a little. My plan is to start with the HOFs first since I can't expect they will be getting cheaper later. I fully expect that once I'm done building it I will probably lose interest in it and will probably sell it off - hopefully for a profit - although making money is not my intent here. I just enjoy building sets, and being the smallest (250 cards) it seems approachable. 52 and 53 were other candidates but far too costly. 55 does not appeal to me, and the 56 was a second choice, but its a larger set, and that mantle is pricey. I'm a much bigger Aaron fan than ever a mantle fan, so if i'm going to shell out $$ i'd much rather have an aaron rookie than a 56 mantle.

I welcome any thoughts on this project.
- jim

Comments

  • stownstown Posts: 11,321 ✭✭✭
    It's a great set. In fact, I'm putting one together as well, so props on your good taste image

    I would suggest starting by purchasing lots via eBay. You should be able to get a nice discount rather than purchasing them individually.

    Slow and steady wins the race..

    Good times and good luck image
    So basically my kid won't be able to go to college, but at least I'll have a set where the three most expensive cards are of a player I despise ~ CDsNuts
  • Jim I say go for it. When I started the 07 Heritage set this year I decided I would try to do a 1958 set, I started doing a graded set and got around 60 cards or so before I lost interest (they are all being sold now), but decided to go with a raw set instead and I am now 82 cards away from completion. I started out buying lots and setting snipes on the stars along the way, it goes pretty fast, I really thought I would have the set finished up by next years Heritage release, but I'm guessing I'll be done by next month instead. That just means I can start on another year. Have fun and good luck.
  • parkerjparkerj Posts: 1,098 ✭✭✭
    Thanks for the input, although it goes against the grain here given its a psa forum, i have no real interest in graded cards - I much prefer raw, and if I'm collecting them, they don't have to be perfect. I can't tell the diff between an 8, 9 or 10 anyhow...but I don't want to start a debate on that. To each his own. I do think they provide a level of security against the counterfeiters out there....and they help the resale value for sure.

    stown - let's not outsnipe each other - only the seller wins!

    peace.
  • perkdogperkdog Posts: 31,560 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If I can make a suggestion here, have you thought of just going after the cards you like from the set? If you think you might lose interest down the road why not try and avoid this? Personally I love the '54's but I also love the '53's, oh and the '55's and the '56's as well. What I have done and continue to do is pick up cards that I like from each set, not sure if you gave that a thought or not, but IMO it helps when you get bored of a certain set you can move on to others until the interest comes back. Again this is just my way of thinking and by no meens do I think anyone should do what I do, I just thought I would make a suggestion. That being said I wish you Luck with whatever way you chose to go!
  • A 1954 set just sold for $2,200 on Ebay. I think it was missing two commons. There were graded cards in there as well....many 7's, some 8's, and some 6's. The graded cards were mostly commons. The biggies were mostly vg to Ex(not slabbed). I was ready to bid on it, and I felt it was a pretty good deal. But I used restraint, and kept the Franklins in my wallet.
  • RipublicaninMassRipublicaninMass Posts: 10,051 ✭✭✭
    buying and selling lot on ebay can be good. I picked up a ton of lots for my 55 set. I have been selling lots of vg-ex dups, and selling the ex+ commons seperately. I ended up with a PSA 7-8 set 75% complete and a raw set 30% graded ex minus clemente. Also, I have about 35 (waiting for 50) cards to be graded mostly 6-7 range.
  • bifff257bifff257 Posts: 751 ✭✭
    Hey Jim,

    Great Choice with this set... With only 250 cards it makes it more managable than a Monster 700+ card set.

    Great Bookend Williams cards and of course the Aaron, Banks , & Kaline rookies.

    I am presently working on the set myself and slowly putting it together. I also have a 56 topps set going and I am about ready to start a 57 topps set.... Ok, I think I need to focus!!!!!!


    I have decided to go with a Mid grade set just because of expense.... I have had good luck picking up lower grade cards very cheap on Ebay.


    Good luck




    My 54 topps set
  • originalisbestoriginalisbest Posts: 5,971 ✭✭✭✭
    It's a terrific set; I prefer the '55s, but the '54s are awesome as well. Both are a good choice - since I'm well into '55s and '56s at the moment, I'd better wait to build my '54 set for a while. image
  • parkerjparkerj Posts: 1,098 ✭✭✭
    Thanks for the input guys.

    Addict: we should be doing the 59 set now so we can be ready for 08 heritage and see how closely they mimic the original.

    Perkdog: thanks for the suggestion, I am considering that approach....maybe just pickup the hall of famers, which are really the only guys I really know from the set. That might be why I have lost interest in my 70/71 sets, because prior to 74 (when I was 6) I really don't know the common guys so there's less interest. But I enjoy the challenge of building a set....once I'm done is usually the point where it has less interest for me.

    Another question: If I were to buy HOF's in psa4s and 5s and crack them free from their plastic, would I really be losing that much money when I go to sell? I could see really losing out if they were already graded 7s or 8s.



  • Jim I plan on starting on the 59 set next, the 58 at this point is all downhill from here cost wise, the only big one I have left to get is the W.S. Batting foes, then I can just upgrade as I come across better cards. I'd like to finish it up by next month and start on the 59's and have it done by the time 2008 heritage hits. Good luck with the 54's
  • stownstown Posts: 11,321 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Another question: If I were to buy HOF's in psa4s and 5s and crack them free from their plastic, would I really be losing that much money when I go to sell? I could see really losing out if they were already graded 7s or 8s. >>



    If it were me... Actually, I'm doing the same thing so image

    Don't crack them out because, in my opinion, the value will drop.

    Just as you don't want to purchase a raw one due to possible trimming/tampering/etc, the next Buyer will want the same regardless of grade.

    Personally, I would rather buy a nice '54 HOFer in a PSA 4 than raw.
    So basically my kid won't be able to go to college, but at least I'll have a set where the three most expensive cards are of a player I despise ~ CDsNuts
  • stormsurgestormsurge Posts: 858 ✭✭
    If anyone is interested in graded 59s let me know - I have some extras (all PSA 8 and a couple PSA 9s).
  • perkdogperkdog Posts: 31,560 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I agree with Stown. I think a lot of people are gun shy about buying raw on ebay due to trimming, I wont buy anything raw off of ebay.
  • bifff257bifff257 Posts: 751 ✭✭


    << <i>Personally, I would rather buy a nice '54 HOFer in a PSA 4 than raw. >>



    image


    Yep, I am out of the raw buying business with vintage HOF's.... If you buy raw you will more than likely end up paying to much for an overgraded card or it will be trimmed or better yet fake...


    Disclaimer:::: I can post the above due to my personal Experiences image

  • parkerjparkerj Posts: 1,098 ✭✭✭
    Great advice, thanks - psa-only for HOF's.
  • stownstown Posts: 11,321 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Great advice, thanks - psa-only for HOF's. >>



    Think that's the most economical and practical way of doing it.

    Good luck and don't you dare try to outbid me image
    So basically my kid won't be able to go to college, but at least I'll have a set where the three most expensive cards are of a player I despise ~ CDsNuts
  • Any updates on the set?
  • Another great set to work on is the 1963 Fleer. I love that set. Small set with not too many high priced cards...
  • parkerjparkerj Posts: 1,098 ✭✭✭
    Funny you should ask...I kind of got distracted by allen & ginter, and I never started. Then I decided i wanted to finish my 70 and 71 sets first, they are about 80% done, but I need most if not allof the high numbers.

    - jim
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