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How many times have you cracked & resubmitted a card?

OilCanDanOilCanDan Posts: 45 ✭✭
in Trading Cards & Memorabilia Forum
Just curious if there are any success stories out there (I assume there are) and if so, how many times you've resubmitted the same card in an effort to get the grade you believe it should have before finally getting it or finally giving up. I've only recently begun subbing cards so I have none, but I'm curious to know if anyone out here's had at it before.

Comments

  • mikeschmidtmikeschmidt Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭
    I sometimes will crack a group of 9s of a single card, and resubmit 4-7 of them, with the hopes that one of the example stands out as being better than the others. It works pretty often (but not all the time)

    ~ms
    I am actively buying MIKE SCHMIDT gem mint baseball cards. Also looking for any 19th century cabinets of Philadephia Nationals. Please PM with additional details.
  • GriffinsGriffins Posts: 6,076 ✭✭✭
    I've cracked a few dozen, just once each. One card I cracked 3 times before it got the grade I thought it deserved.
    I spoke with one dealer at the National a couple of years ago and he said 10-12 times wasn't unusual for him, and his record was 14. So much for the pop reports.

    Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's

  • storm888storm888 Posts: 11,701 ✭✭✭
    It is often worth the effort.
    Folks Who Bite Get Bitten. Folks Who Don't Bite Get Eaten.
  • PubliusPublius Posts: 1,306 ✭✭
    I go after certain cards alot. I buy them in Gem, Pro whatever and sub them hoping for a cross grade. 75% of the time they come back with evid trim, etc.

    There was recently a thread on here about never ever submittting a card in another slab. So I spent a saturday cracking about 80 slabs and I sent them in loose. Im waiting for the results. i saved all the old gem stickers and the psa stickers with evid trim etc. My own ittle experiment.

    joe
    My Steve Largent Master Set
  • SDavidSDavid Posts: 1,584 ✭✭
    I spoke with one dealer at the National a couple of years ago and he said 10-12 times wasn't unusual for him, and his record was 14. So much for the pop reports.

    He must deal in a lot of cards that are on the cusp of a very high return. Otherwise, I don't see the point considering the fees and the turnaround time.

    I've never resubmitted a card more than twice, but I've gotten a bump around 75% of the time on the first try. I guess I'm pretty conservative with my crackouts, but most of the cards I submit aren't worth more than a few shots (if that).
  • perkdogperkdog Posts: 31,228 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Once, a 1952 Bowman Large Sammy Baugh GLOBAL 8. It came back a PSA 8 image
  • JJinsJJins Posts: 23
  • JJinsJJins Posts: 23
    Sorry about the last post.

    I have yet to do it. I cracked a card once, and destroyed the card (it wasn't anything of value), but it was enough for me to not do it again.

    Any tips?
  • jmbkb4jmbkb4 Posts: 2,963


    << <i>It is often worth the effort. >>



    I'm on 5+ with a few cards... 9/9/9/9/9.....
  • Downtown1974Downtown1974 Posts: 6,876 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Sorry about the last post.

    I have yet to do it. I cracked a card once, and destroyed the card (it wasn't anything of value), but it was enough for me to not do it again.

    Any tips? >>



    Jjins, You should be able to find the correct way to crack one in your sig. image Seriously, I find the best way is to take a knife to the outside of each corner. Get the edge of the knife in between the front of the holder and the back of it, then twist the knife enough to seperate the two sides. Once you get to the 4th corner it should just pull right off. Some others do it different but I have never damaged a card this way.

    MY GOLD TYPE SET https://pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/complete-type-sets/gold-type-set-12-piece-circulation-strikes-1839-1933/publishedset/321940

  • Bosox1976Bosox1976 Posts: 8,564 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My record is 3 times. Got 7/7/8. I think I probably get bumps 60% of the time, but I am fairly aggressive.
    Mike
    Bosox1976
  • baseballfanbaseballfan Posts: 5,464 ✭✭✭
    i did it about 4 years ago or more with 3 1955 all americans. they were bgs which i won off of ebay, i think they were something like 6.5/5.5/6 and they came back one the same, one lower, one higher. if i recall correctly the 5.5 was a 6 the 6 was a 5 and the 6.5 came back a 7. not too bad since i got a 7 (didn't mind the 6) which was i was looking for but haven't done it since. i did want to try it to see the results.
    Fred

    collecting RAW Topps baseball cards 1952 Highs to 1972. looking for collector grade (somewhere between psa 4-7 condition). let me know what you have, I'll take it, I want to finish sets, I must have something you can use for trade.

    looking for Topps 71-72 hi's-62-53-54-55-59, I have these sets started

  • larryallen73larryallen73 Posts: 6,067 ✭✭✭
    Zero so far. I keep thinking about it with a few. One of these days....
  • Lothar52Lothar52 Posts: 2,664 ✭✭✭
    cracked a BVG 4.5 1954 Willie Mays with 9 (50/50) centering I bought in 2002 for 150 bucks...came back a freaking 7 PSA!!!
  • gemintgemint Posts: 6,130 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think three is my highest. I had a solid 1969 Lou Brock that graded 7 every time. I couldn't get it to bump. The only flaw I could see that might downgrade it was print smudges on the reverse. I also cracked a 1973 Palmer a few times and it came back 8 each time. I still think it should be a 9. I had a 1957 high grade common I bought from waverly that I submitted twice. It came back 'EVID TRIM' both times. I don't see the evidence myself but if two graders see it that way, it must be trimmed. Knowing the seller's track record, it's not a surprise. That was $60 (with grading fees) down the tubes.
    https://ebay.com/sch/gemint/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
  • SoutherncardsSoutherncards Posts: 1,384 ✭✭
    crack and resubmit = silly concept
  • GriffinsGriffins Posts: 6,076 ✭✭✭
    Southern- you think so?
    I had one grade a 6, I knew it was a 7. Next two times came back 3's both times, and then got the 7. It was definitely worth it.
    And anticipating your next comment, I've talked to people that have repeatedly (and successfully) cracked and resubmitted cards to grading companies in Santa Ana AND Paramus.

    Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's

  • gemintgemint Posts: 6,130 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>crack and resubmit = silly concept >>



    If a card looks undergraded, I don't see anything silly about resubmitting it. Especially if it is to be sold. No sense leaving money on the table. Some cards just fall on the border between grades and could go either way (up or down).
    https://ebay.com/sch/gemint/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
  • SoutherncardsSoutherncards Posts: 1,384 ✭✭


    << <i>Southern- you think so?
    I had one grade a 6, I knew it was a 7. Next two times came back 3's both times, and then got the 7. It was definitely worth it.
    And anticipating your next comment, I've talked to people that have repeatedly (and successfully) cracked and resubmitted cards to grading companies in Santa Ana AND Paramus. >>




    Actually, I do.

    If you keep fishing for opinions over and over until you get the one you want, how accurate is that opinion now? Your card went from a 6 to a 3 to a 3 to a 7? Do you really feel good about that 7? Would a potential buyer really want that card knowing the 6, 3, 3, 7, story? All that becomes is a matter of buying the flip and not the card....silly

    oh and its Parsippany, not Paramus. Paramus is in Bergen County. Parsippany is further south.
  • GriffinsGriffins Posts: 6,076 ✭✭✭
    i stand corrected. Parsippany.
    The card was a solid 7 to begin with. The grades I was not comfortable with were the 6 and 3's. It's one of the few issues I think I know quite well and feel very comfortable with its assigned grade- from where it will live out my days encapsulated as a 7.

    Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's

  • SoutherncardsSoutherncards Posts: 1,384 ✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>crack and resubmit = silly concept >>



    If a card looks undergraded, I don't see anything silly about resubmitting it. Especially if it is to be sold. No sense leaving money on the table. Some cards just fall on the border between grades and could go either way (up or down). >>



    If the card looks undergraded, crack and sell it raw. If a card falls on the border between grades, choose a grading company with smaller borders. If you are concerned with leaving money on the table more than introducing a potentially overgraded card into the market, that's on you.
  • SoutherncardsSoutherncards Posts: 1,384 ✭✭


    << <i>i stand corrected. Parsippany.
    The card was a solid 7 to begin with. The grades I was not comfortable with were the 6 and 3's. It's one of the few issues I think I know quite well and feel very comfortable with its assigned grade- from where it will live out my days encapsulated as a 7. >>



    what is it about the card that caused it to come back twice as a 3? is there a hairline crease? If 2 different graders saw it as a 3, doesnt that tell you that there is something really wrong that you arent seeing?
  • gemintgemint Posts: 6,130 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The cases where a card jumps 3-4 grades are not very common. Usually resubs are for borderline cards as I mentioned earlier. I do agree though with the 'buy the card not the holder' motto. I'd rather have a high end 7 than a low end 8, particularly for the price. Many high end 7s look like solid 8s though. I don't submit anything that looks NM, yet I get my fair share of 7s on cards with an 8 eye appeal. And who can really tell the difference between a MINT and GEM MINT card? Yet people continue to pay many multiples to upgrade from a 9 (or 96) to a 10 (or 98).
    https://ebay.com/sch/gemint/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
  • VolverVolver Posts: 753


    << <i>And who can really tell the difference between a MINT and GEM MINT card? Yet people continue to pay many multiples to upgrade from a 9 (or 96) to a 10 (or 98). >>



    This is what I want to know - what is the difference? Is there one to the human eye?
  • SoutherncardsSoutherncards Posts: 1,384 ✭✭


    << <i>

    This is what I want to know - what is the difference? Is there one to the human eye? >>




    With my grader of choice, I have often been able to tell the difference on some cards, not all
  • gemintgemint Posts: 6,130 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>

    This is what I want to know - what is the difference? Is there one to the human eye? >>




    With my grader of choice, I have often been able to tell the difference on some cards, not all >>



    The only difference is usually with the centering. A fair amount of MINT cards are outside the 55-45 centering guideline. Aside from that, I challange people to pick the GEM MINT card out of a lineup that includes a handful of solid MINT cards. I find it particularly difficult with the newer cards. How can a pack fresh refractor or chrome card be anything less than a 10?
    https://ebay.com/sch/gemint/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
  • Carew29Carew29 Posts: 4,025 ✭✭

    3 times on a 68 Topps Mantle card that i know is a 9 and keeps coming back an 8.
  • PasadenaMudSlidePasadenaMudSlide Posts: 732
    3 times on a 68 Topps Mantle card that i know is a 9 and keeps coming back an 8.

    That's because it's a Mantle, Hoss!

    Keep tryin'!
  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>crack and resubmit = silly concept >>



    If a card looks undergraded, I don't see anything silly about resubmitting it. Especially if it is to be sold. No sense leaving money on the table. Some cards just fall on the border between grades and could go either way (up or down). >>



    If the card looks undergraded, crack and sell it raw. If a card falls on the border between grades, choose a grading company with smaller borders. If you are concerned with leaving money on the table more than introducing a potentially overgraded card into the market, that's on you. >>



    Uh, who else could it possibly 'be on'?
  • hill33hill33 Posts: 116
    I needed a Hill Finest Rack Pack that was peeled in PSA 9 or better. I had two PSA9's with peel, so I cracked one, peeled it and resubmitted it. Came back a 10.
  • handymanhandyman Posts: 5,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Here is what I have cracked
    1979 PSA 8 #390 earl Campbell, 1st time PSA 9OC, 2nd time PSA 8, 3rd time PSA 9.
    1977 Steve Largent SGC 92, 1st PSA 8, Second PSA 9
    1954 Ed Mathews SGC 84, 1st Time PSA 7, Second time PSA 8
    1971-72 Jerry West SGC 92, 1st time PSA 8 Second time PSA 9
    1972 Thurman Munson Pulled from pack, 1st time PSA 8 second PSA 9
    1951 Blue Back Enos Slaughter SGC 80 1st time PSA 9
    1940 Play Ball Ted Williams ASA 7 1st time PSA 5 second time PSA 6
    And several others
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