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Who collects PSA 7 cards?

I have always considered PSA 8, PSA 9 and PSA 10 high grade cards. Everything less, I thought were low grade or mid-grade.

But in looking at some of the cards in slabs, there are actually some very nice looking cards in PSA 7 level. Are PSA 7 cards considered high grade still? Or are PSA 7 cards on the upper end of mid-grade only?

Comments

  • mikeschmidtmikeschmidt Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭
    It depends on what era you are referring to.

    PSA 7 for most pre-war cards is an elusive and beautiful beast.
    I am actively buying MIKE SCHMIDT gem mint baseball cards. Also looking for any 19th century cabinets of Philadephia Nationals. Please PM with additional details.
  • mkg809mkg809 Posts: 1,320 ✭✭
    A 7 for a modern card is toilet paper.
  • I agree with Marc. It depends on the era. Regarding modern cards, I think a PSA 7 would be considered mid-grade (e.g. 1979 Topps - low end mid-grade (or even low grade); 1960 Topps high end mid-grade). With respect to vintage cards, I think a high quality PSA 7 would be considered a high grade. One of the sets that I am working on is the T3 Turkey Red set. I consider a PSA 5 a high grade. For example the Lajoie below is the highest graded by PSA and it is "only" a 5.

    image
  • sagardsagard Posts: 1,898 ✭✭✭
    I do. I've done the '63 Topps set in Baseball in almost all PSA 7. I've found almost all commons you find tend to be high end sevens due to most only submitting in hopes of getting 8s. I've decided to upgrade my stars to 8s because low end sevens are not that pretty and I feel my money is better spent on stars.
  • detroitfan2detroitfan2 Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭✭
    I am working on a 1952 Topps set in PSA 2/3/4/5, and 1953, 1954, and 1955 Topps sets in PSA 4/5/6. For my money, these cards are bargains. I am 100% convinced that if you broke a completely graded PSA 6 set out of the slabs, the cards would be as nice or nicer than those that certain sellers, such as those whose names rhyme with "Lister Lint", would call "mint".

    Remember, no one really sends in a common from 1954 or 1955 to get a PSA 5 or PSA 6, as you'd be lucky to get your money back if you sold them. Most of these cards are what the submitter thought was a near mint or better card.

    As for PSA 7's? I have every card that I opened from 1979 until the present. Many of them went straight out of the pack or vending box into a cardboard set box and have been there ever since, and I bet over 50% of them would be PSA 7's or worse. True that a modern PSA 7 is pretty much worthless, but a PSA 7 card is still pretty darn nice.
  • RonBurgundyRonBurgundy Posts: 5,491 ✭✭✭
    Here's a rule of thumb I use in considering PSA 7 cards:

    Pre-1960: Absolutely. I consider them to be high end for this era.

    1960-69: Only if high end in appearance, particularly towards the end of the decade.

    1970-79: Only as set fillers.

    1980 +: No way.



    Ron
    Ron Burgundy

    Buying Vintage, all sports.
    Buying Woody Hayes, Les Horvath, Vic Janowicz, and Jesse Owens autographed items
  • MeferMefer Posts: 1,156 ✭✭✭
    I really consider PSA 7 cards to be PSA 8 equivalents for one set I am working on, 1971 Topps baseball. I have many 7s that look just as good, if not nicer, than some 8s. In my book, 7s are acceptable for 1971. They look just as nice (or in some case, almost just as nice) and do not cost as much as 8s. Case in point, that is my Reginald that you see at the top of the 1971 Topps PSA article that is "only" a 7:

    PSA Set Registry Article On 1971 Topps Baseball
  • markj111markj111 Posts: 2,921 ✭✭✭
    I am working on BB sets from 59-72. I collect 8s, but if a submission comes back a 7 I will live with it, unless it is a star card. Also, I do not pay a premium for low pops in 8; I look for nice 7s.

    My exception is my 61 set for which all but 7 cards are at least an 8. I am looking to upgrade the 7s.
  • RonBurgundyRonBurgundy Posts: 5,491 ✭✭✭
    Good point on 1971's....that is probably an exception to my rule.



    Ron
    Ron Burgundy

    Buying Vintage, all sports.
    Buying Woody Hayes, Les Horvath, Vic Janowicz, and Jesse Owens autographed items
  • jackstrawjackstraw Posts: 3,748 ✭✭✭
    I think this is high grade? I always on the look out for nicely centered 7's because one they are cheaper and look just as nice.

    image
    Collector Focus

    ON ITS WAY TO NEWPORT BEACH, CA 92658
  • jackstrawjackstraw Posts: 3,748 ✭✭✭
    Another 7 from my collection that was very affordable!
    image
    Collector Focus

    ON ITS WAY TO NEWPORT BEACH, CA 92658
  • RipublicaninMassRipublicaninMass Posts: 10,051 ✭✭✭
    Who buys 7's...poor people, just kidding

    I think ron hit the nail on the head
  • perkdogperkdog Posts: 29,357 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Here's a rule of thumb I use in considering PSA 7 cards:

    Pre-1960: Absolutely. I consider them to be high end for this era.

    1960-69: Only if high end in appearance, particularly towards the end of the decade.

    1970-79: Only as set fillers.

    1980 +: No way.



    Ron >>





    Well put
  • JasP24JasP24 Posts: 4,645 ✭✭✭
    For Pre-1950 football, PSA 7 is my goal..

    Jason
    I'm here to question, not to inspire or build up. To live how I want, as I see fit,
    according to my values and my needs. Nothing holds dominion over me, I stand alone as the ruler of my life.
  • 2dueces2dueces Posts: 6,231 ✭✭✭✭✭
    PSA 7's are NM. How can the be anything but high grade? I could put 50 raw
    cards on the table and 99% of you couldn't tell a 7 from a 9.

    The high and mighty of collecting all in one room.
    W.C.Fields
    "I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
  • Jackstraw those are very nice cards, i can't imagine if out of the slab without a 10x magnifying loupe you could tell the difference in those compared to a psa 8 or 9. great cards. Phil
  • GDM67GDM67 Posts: 2,523 ✭✭✭✭
    For anything 1980 and before, they're in play, for me. I have 7's of several 67 cards that are prohibitively expensive as 8's (Aaron, Perez, McCovey) and I like all of them. On the other hand, I originally bought some 7s for my 72 Football set that I'm currently upgrading, or intend to.

    My rule of thumb is that I like to try for one grade above whatever the standard is (i.e., 9's for post 1980 cards, 8s for pre 80), but for some sets (Mefer's example of 71 Baseball is a great one, the Football set from that year is, too), 8's are going to be truly tough and I am perfectly okay to go with a 7, especially one that looks really good.
  • HoofHeartedHoofHearted Posts: 2,537 ✭✭


    << <i>Here's a rule of thumb I use in considering PSA 7 cards:

    Pre-1960: Absolutely. I consider them to be high end for this era.

    1960-69: Only if high end in appearance, particularly towards the end of the decade.

    1970-79: Only as set fillers.

    1980 +: No way.



    Ron >>



    I agree with Mr. Burgundy.

    There are always exceptions to the rules, too, in addition to the '71s already noted above. Some OPCs, Venezuelas, and other oddball sets just aren't going to have a lot of cards graded much higher than a 7. Ya gotta take it "case by case"...

    As far as my '62 Topps cards go, I absolutely love how they look in a 7!!
  • I'm trying to complete Topps Master sets for 1952 - 1956 in a straight PSA 7. At a SMR of nearly $250,000, I consider these cards to be a sufficiently high grade for my collection and enough of a financial challenge to keep me busy for many years. The Charles Merkel's, Don Louchios's, Donald Spence's and Marshall Fogel's of the world may disagree but I'm not them and I am very proud of what I have been able to acquire so far. I look forward to working on this incredible run of cards no matter how long it takes. However, if anbody wants to unload some of these midgrade cards let me know.

    Another goal is to complete a 1941 Goudey master set in ANY grade. A full run of PSA 6's for this set is not possible at this time and may never be. Again, if anybody wants to unload these cards let me know and I'll be happy to remove these rags from your sight.
    Learn some history of the game. Join a vintage base ball team in your area and get out there.
    Simsbury Taverneers
    My PSA Sets
  • smallstockssmallstocks Posts: 1,581 ✭✭✭
    I am building the 1954 and 1955 Topps sets in PSA 7 or better.

    Late 60's and early to mid 70's non-sports
  • A modern PSA 7 is not completely worthless. The material they are encased in is worth something.
    Consider the money spend as money spent for a card holder.
    Jeremy
  • fiveninerfiveniner Posts: 4,109 ✭✭✭
    I collect psa 7s however my collection is mostly pre 60s.My 59 Set grades at a 6.69 on the registery at #9 and there are some very nice 7s in that group and some 6s that are as nice or nicer than some of the 7s in my eyes.I would of course like to upgrade my stars that are less than 7 to at least that.
    Tony(AN ANGEL WATCHES OVER ME)
  • bobsbbcardsbobsbbcards Posts: 3,254 ✭✭✭

    I love 7s from the 50s. Back before slabbing, cards that now grade 7 would definitely have been sitting on dealers' tables marked as NM+++++++ or MINT. From '53 through '59, I look for 7s with an occational 8 thrown in. For 1952 Topps, picking up some 6s was a necessity.
  • 262Runner262Runner Posts: 606 ✭✭✭
    I like PSA 7's. I just recently completed my 1961 topps Baseball in 7 & 8's (7.35). I also just started a 1962 Baseball set and a 1957 Baseball set both are going to be built with mostly PSA 7's. I have no problem with NM cards for my collection. Yes, I can see the difference between a 7 and 9, however, for the budget, I can build many more sets and get more enjoyment from my cards if I stick to the PSA 7 level.

    On the other hand, If I were purchasing cards as a investment, I would always be looking for the higher grades, 8 and 9 for the 50's through the 70's, 9 and 10's for the sets from about 1976 on.

    There is a big difference in collecting and investing. I believe it all depends on your goals and budget. Collecting is a great hobby, there is a place for everyone.

    Just my humble opinion.

    262

    Collecting all cards - Gus Zernial
    Post Cereal both raw and PSA Graded (1961-1963)

  • fiveninerfiveniner Posts: 4,109 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I like PSA 7's. I just recently completed my 1961 topps Baseball in 7 & 8's (7.35). I also just started a 1962 Baseball set and a 1957 Baseball set both are going to be built with mostly PSA 7's. I have no problem with NM cards for my collection. Yes, I can see the difference between a 7 and 9, however, for the budget, I can build many more sets and get more enjoyment from my cards if I stick to the PSA 7 level.

    On the other hand, If I were purchasing cards as a investment, I would always be looking for the higher grades, 8 and 9 for the 50's through the 70's, 9 and 10's for the sets from about 1976 on.

    There is a big difference in collecting and investing. I believe it all depends on your goals and budget. Collecting is a great hobby, there is a place for everyone.

    Just my humble opinion.

    262 >>



    Great Opinion,I fully agree.
    Tony(AN ANGEL WATCHES OVER ME)
  • jackstrawjackstraw Posts: 3,748 ✭✭✭
    If I was a multi millionaire I would also want the highest grades but since I am not even close to that so 6's and 7's are just fine!
    Collector Focus

    ON ITS WAY TO NEWPORT BEACH, CA 92658
  • BuccaneerBuccaneer Posts: 1,794 ✭✭


    << <i>I love 7s from the 50s. Back before slabbing, cards that now grade 7 would definitely have been sitting on dealers' tables marked as NM+++++++ or MINT. From '53 through '59, I look for 7s with an occational 8 thrown in. For 1952 Topps, picking up some 6s was a necessity. >>



    Quoted for truth.
  • Bosox1976Bosox1976 Posts: 8,528 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The 1962 set in 7 is as tough as many sets in 8. There are quite a few tough 7's in that set.
    Mike
    Bosox1976
  • paleocardspaleocards Posts: 922 ✭✭✭✭
    I collect Topps baseball HOFers from primarily 1955-1975 in "7" or better. I think that centered "7's" are beautiful and fit very nicely in my collection. Many compare favorably to "8's" with 60/40 centering. Here are a few of my favorite "7's" that I submitted raw:

    imageimage


    imageimage


    imageimage


    image
  • Now those are some nice 7's paleo
  • GDM67GDM67 Posts: 2,523 ✭✭✭✭
    Those are great looking cards. The Mays looks like an 8, to me.
  • yankeeno7yankeeno7 Posts: 9,243 ✭✭✭
    I love PSA 7s....and even some PSA 6's. I collect for enjoyment and do not require to be super high grade. I make a decent income but I have more things in my life than cards. If I made more money, maybe I would collect higher grades, who knows.

    I have both 6s and 7s that look like 8s and 9s. I am the oppitamy of "buy the card, not the holder".

    Don't get me wrong...I do drool over the 8+ stuff that is pre-70. Just not always realistic for me.


  • I must agree with those who feel that a 1971 PSA 7 is equivilant to an 8 from other years. I've received numerous 7's that I couldn't differentiate from an 8 or sometimes even a 9. The toughest set of all time in my opinion.
    There are two types of people in this world; those who like Neil Diamond, and those who don't. My ex-wife loves him!!
  • TJMACTJMAC Posts: 864 ✭✭
    Basically, I collect PSA Hofers and Superstars. I buy 5 or above in the 50's, 6 or above from the 60's-73, 7 or above from 74-79, 8 and above from 80 forward. It seems to work well for my budget. It is primarily a hobby to me, but these cards still seem to hold their value and have nice eye appeal.
  • Only as a set filler for a low pop card. Some commons in low pop can run well over 2 bills!!
  • jradke4jradke4 Posts: 3,573 ✭✭✭
    I gotta agree with Jack. I thought we were buying the card not the holder??
    Packers Fan for Life
    Collecting:
    Brett Favre Master Set
    Favre Ticket Stubs
    Favre TD Reciever Autos
    Football HOF Player/etc. Auto Set
    Football HOF Rc's
  • PSA , SGC 7's is where higher end investment grade begins. I collect minimum 7's. It doesn't pertain to all cards but the majority imo. I'm talking about vintage only.
  • I am working on my 3rd PSA 7 1952 Topps collection

    The 1st is complete in the Master Set

    The 2nd is 5 cards short of a Master Set

    The 3rd is about 90% complete in Basic Set

    If anyone has any PSA 7 1952 Topps, please email me

    David
  • alnavmanalnavman Posts: 4,129 ✭✭✭
    I know it won't be the highest registry set but I'm working on a PSA 7 1970 Topps baseball set. I have a few 8's thrown into it but will be happy collecting basically what will be a PSA 7 set from the year I graduated high school.
  • mikeschmidtmikeschmidt Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭
    David-

    I was kind of with you in 'getting' it on a second PSA 7 1952 Topps set, but what exactly is your inspiration for completing number three? That is fantastic!
    I am actively buying MIKE SCHMIDT gem mint baseball cards. Also looking for any 19th century cabinets of Philadephia Nationals. Please PM with additional details.
  • Needed a handful of cards to come close to finishing 1952 Topps PSA 7 Set #2 and knew a fellow who was giving up on his quest for completing a '52 Topps set (had alot of 7's as well as some 6's and 8's - and a couple of the cards I was seeking for set #2).

    He is an attorney who had a sideline storefront card store and was looking for raw cards to sell in his shop. I had a number of raw vintage sets that I no longer had an interest in keeping, so we traded - there were about 175 PSA 7's that I already had in sets #1 and #2 - so #3 was born...

    It takes me a while to list each new card as I continue to take the best cards and put them first in set #1, then set #2 before listing them on the set #3 registry
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