psa minimum grades..what are yours?

Jayssan

Hi folks,

I'm a constant reader to these boards but seldom post. So much information here, its a great place!

My question is this : what are you standards for minimum grades?

For instance, while a psa 6 would be a nice buy in pre 30 to mid 50's....would a psa 6 from the 60's seem shoddy?

I've been buying lower graded cards as I can simply because I cant afford to run with the big bidders but I'd still like to own decent looking cards.

I'm interested in your perspective on this, thanks !

Jay

jeffcbay

I collect only modern cards, and I won't purchase anything but 9s or 10s.

WinPitcher

Certain Psa 6's are sweet.

True ex/mnt cards are very collectable.

I do not want cards net graded to 6 though.

Steve

buddyholly

Jay,

My budget only allows 6s on most things as well, and I am always happy. Maybe I have lower expectations....

Seriously, most of my vintage 6s look the same to me as my 7s and there are many 60s era cards that I will be proud to own in a 6.

Alfonz24

If you are avoiding the higher grades because of cost, why not just collect raw cards. Then you would not be hit by the grading fees on anything you purchase.

Estil

Now, I'm not one to do professionally graded cards, but here's how I'd like my cards to look idealy (for example, when buying a set):

CORNERS: They don't always have to be perfect, but preferably vending quailty whenever possible. Obviously dinged corners are much more serious on colored borders or borderless cards than on white bordered ones.

CENTERING: I mainly want to make sure none are miscut (any part of the border is touching the edge) or have "hairline borders". Anything above about a 70/30 will be fine.

CUT: Obviously no chipped edges.

CLAIRITY: No creases, stains of any kind, no obvious smuges in the printing.

Of course, considering my permanent collection has over 50,000 cards, it makes maintaining quality control quite a bit difficult to say the least. But I want to keep it as consistent NRMT or better quality as possible.

perkdog

I try to stick with 7's But I have seen some 6's that look better than 7's yet I stay away for some reason. I should buy the card not the grade but if I decide to sell down the road the 7 might be a better investment.

stevek

<< <i>Hi folks,

I'm a constant reader to these boards but seldom post. So much information here, its a great place!

My question is this : what are you standards for minimum grades?

For instance, while a psa 6 would be a nice buy in pre 30 to mid 50's....would a psa 6 from the 60's seem shoddy?

I've been buying lower graded cards as I can simply because I cant afford to run with the big bidders but I'd still like to own decent looking cards.

I'm interested in your perspective on this, thanks !

Jay >>



You're just gonna have to get a feel for the type of card and the grades and if you like them or not. Card shows are great for checking out live all the various cards and grades. Don't be afraid to bring a loupe and if the dealer doesn't like it then F* 'em!

For example - I need my 1962 Topps to be at least PSA 7's. But 1952 Topps PSA 6's to me look great and are affordable for me.


-

Jayssan

Thanks for the input guys,interesting reading.

Recently I won a 1957 Red Sox common psa 5 for 5 bucks.

also a 1960 psa 6 for 2.00, and a 1966 psa 6 high number for a penny !

I guess maybe I like finding the bargains as they come up (which is rare, but still happens).

I dont buy raw usually because I love the look of the cards once graded, and Psa are the only graded cards I'm interested in.

One day...money wont be an object (yeah right) but until then I'll scour feebay I guess in search of off priced goodies.

Thanks again for your import !


Go Red Sox!

GDM67

Having been buying PSA cards for a little over a year, for vintage I've kept it to at least 7's, and usually 8's, and at least 8 for modern. I try to stay at, or one grade above, what's considered full book condition.

This was a conscious effort on my part, to upgrade the sort of cards that I collected. When I first seriously collected vintage singles, from @ '91 to '94, I usually went for mid grade stuff. I wasn't too concerned about corners (within reason) and centering. Focused images and a lack of creases were my two big needs. I still have a lot of stuff in that condition which looks nice to my eyes, and which I may eventually have graded. (I have higher level stuff, too, just not as much.)

So, I hear you about eye appeal. It's all about what you want and like. If you keep that as your goal, you'll always have fun.

zef204

I have many 6's and 7's for sale now and as you can see they don't particularly sell too well.

I know:

Stone193

As a general statement about the early Topps issues...

There's nothing sweeter and more affordable than a nicely centered PSA 5 or 6.

mike

bri2327

My minimum grades are all over the place.

Anything mid 70's and newer has to be PSA 9's or 10's. Going back from that point 8's when the price is right but nice 6's and 7's will do.

Now if we are talking Mantle cards than I will go just about any grade as long as they present well. Ive found some outrageously nice looking PSA 4-5 Mantle cards that appear to be high end 7's and 8's were it not for minor surface wrinkles.

I recently started collecting T206's where commons in PSA 3-4 are just fine by me and HOF'ers in PSA 1-2 will do nicely on my budget. There are some great looking PSA 1's with minor paper loss on the back but clean fronts that present great.