In light of the recent pack/box tampering case, how can I be sure MY personal packs are legit?

Estil

Okay, in light of the recent case regarding the allegedly tampered vintage wax rips, I have found a renewed sense of concern regarding MY personal pack collection (which BTW, I last bought for a few years ago in my college days so it has nothing to do with the recent case). Now, I have one of each of nearly all major 1980s wax packs/rack packs/cello packs. And thus far, about the only way I know of for checking the pack's autenticity is to check the corners and make sure they are NEATLY packaged like a Christmas present, and if the corners look cracked or crooked or whatnot, that's a bad sign (I learned that from thebbckid's pack price guide). I can't imagine how a rack pack could be tampered with but what about cello packs? I take great pride in my 1980s (and some 1990s) pack collection and I want to know how I can be sure once and for all they're all the real deal? What should I look for?

EDIT: As per our resident Bill Ripken ERR collector's request, here's my collection:

WAX:
Topps 1981-1999
Donruss 1981-1998
Fleer 1981-1999
Score 1988-1992
Upper Deck 1989-93
Collector's Choice: 1994-98

CELLO/JUMBO:
Topps 1981-1990
Fleer 1982-1989, 1992

RACK:
Topps 1981-92 (standard)
Topps 1981-86 (grocery)
Topps 1987-91 (jumbo racks)
Donruss 1982-1989 (standard)
Fleer 1981-1984, 1989 (standard)
Fleer 1984-88 (three pack wax packs; the 1984 and 1985 wax pack racks are among the rarest in terms of finding them on Ebay)
Fleer 1983 (jumbo rack)

I would absoultely LOVE to get my hands on one of each of the other kinds of 1993 and 1994 Topps packs (rack, jumbo, jumbo rack; one of each series). And no, none of these have blue chips on the front/back; just standard issue packs to go with my complete sets (well, up to 1992 on the non-Topps ones anyway).

blindflyer

Dude, send them to PSA for authentication.

That's the best way to know what you've got.

-t

Estil

I have somewhere b/t 50-75 wax/cello packs; do you really think I could afford to pay all those grading fees?

What I want to know is what the graders at PSA look for when they authenticate the packs. I want to learn how to do it myself. I mean, you know when they grade cards they look for things like corners, centering, creases, print marks, stains, all under a 10x jewelers' magnifier (at least). But what do they look for in packs?

jmbkb4

Burn marks? Redundant/Excessive folds?

Pack grading must be more of an art, if grading is more of a "science."

storm888

"I have somewhere b/t 50-75 wax/cello packs; do you really think I could afford to pay all those grading fees?"

///////////////////////////////////////////

There will be more specials offered for bulk submissions, as time passes.

Learning to do it yourself is a noble and ambitious idea. I would
suggest that the value-added by the PSA slab will more than pay
for itself in years out.

blindflyer

<< <i>I have somewhere b/t 50-75 wax/cello packs; do you really think I could afford to pay all those grading fees?
>>



Rome wasn't built in a day --- do it bit, by bit ....

trying to become an "expert" in what the graders do just isn't very realistic without the ability to see hundreds of packs --- both legit and tampered.

The only way for real piece of mind is to get them professionally authenticated.

-t

Stone193

Estil

I wouldn't know a good pack from bad unless it was very obvious but for the sake of discussion.

To add to what jm said - the heat roller marks only in one specific area - a sloppy resealer may not pay attention to that and heat the entire back - that will change the "sheen" of the pack.



Plus, as was said - the factory seals the packs in an extremely neat and tight fashion - when someone repacks them? They may not get it as good.



Good luck
mike

Estil

As for the grading, if I was gonna get anything graded, it'd be the top 20 or so of my 1980s rookie/key cards, because I bet many of them have a good shot at 10s (and then I could sell them, buy them back as 8s, and use the profit for my other collecting projects), but with my luck I'll spend all that grading money and get only 7s and 8s

As for where I got the packs, mostly Ebay, I'm sorry to say. But at that time I didn't really have a choice, though I REALLY lucked out with this one online dealer (forget the name...) that actually sold single packs of just about every major set you could think of in 1990s stuff; if I only I could find him again, then I could get my run of Topps wax packs past 1999.

Estil

So it looks like I have nothing to worry about as far as the rack and cello packs go. Which is good because some of those racks I have are quite interesting.

1989FleerBillRipkencollector

On ebay groups theres one named Wax Packs etc. In their topics they probally have your question answered already. Alot of good info there.

Yes racks can be resealed and I think the older ones would be easier to do. (W/O print on them, just the header card)

Your interesting racks ?? Im curious, please do tell.

Estil

<< <i>On ebay groups theres one named Wax Packs etc. In their topics they probally have your question answered already. Alot of good info there.

Yes racks can be resealed and I think the older ones would be easier to do. (W/O print on them, just the header card)

Your interesting racks ?? Im curious, please do tell. >>



Done.

1989FleerBillRipkencollector

Whats the difference in grocery vs. rack? I always thought grocery was the jumbo ones.

tennesseebanker

I started another thread about this somewhere, search pack aucthentication, and it should so up.

tennesseebanker

Here ya go, Maybe this will help some.

How to tell if you packs are legit thread