<< <i>It (PCGS slabbing) does mean a thing, I'm pretty certain PCGS wouldn't slab a 1916-D dime that was made from two dimes planed and glued together. >>
I agree that most fakes would not make it to the slabbing stage..... However, I still believe that you should know your coins and not just take everything that is printed on the label as gospel.......... Such as attributions, varieties, etc......
<< <i>It (PCGS slabbing) does mean a thing, I'm pretty certain PCGS wouldn't slab a 1916-D dime that was made from two dimes planed and glued together. >>
I agree that most fakes would not make it to the slabbing stage..... However, I still believe that you should know your coins and not just take everything that is printed on the label as gospel.......... Such attributions, varieties, etc...... >>
I agree with you. Just pointing out that this particular coin wouldn't have gotten past the eagle eyes at PCGS.
An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.
<< <i>It (PCGS slabbing) does mean a thing, I'm pretty certain PCGS wouldn't slab a 1916-D dime that was made from two dimes planed and glued together. >>
I agree that most fakes would not make it to the slabbing stage..... However, I still believe that you should know your coins and not just take everything that is printed on the label as gospel.......... Such as attributions, varieties, etc...... >>
I agree with you. Just pointing out that this particular coin wouldn't have gotten past the eagle eyes at PCGS. >>
It very likely would not have gotten past a knowledgeable and astute collector, under DIRECT examination.... A picture can hide a multitude of sins.... This coin probably would not even ring properly since it was created from 2 pieces.....
My 1916-D, 1893-S, etc... are all lower grade.. I felt they past the diagnostics, but I still felt better with a RELIABLE TPG corroborating my assessment.... But had I been in doubt, I probably never would have even purchased them originally....
I had, in another thread, mentioned an 1866-S dime with a missing mintmark, that was slabbed as an 1866..... It did not pass the diagnostics of an 1866 dime.... but it was called a "Clerical Error" by the TPG....
ONCE AGAIN, ALWAYS TRY TO KNOW YOUR COINS... and BUY THE BOOK BEFORE THE COIN!!!!!
Doesn't mean a thing..... I just recently purchased and returned a PCGS mis-attributed DarkSide coin....... They had a $300 coin attributed as a $3000 coin....... a HUGE difference for someone who could not tell the difference.....
It does mean a thing.
If and when it was discovered that the coin was mis-attributed (or fake etc), I would expect and believe that PCGS would make me whole. I am not an expert and I could never spend the amount of time and effort that it would require for me to become as expert as the greders at PCGS.
This doesn't mean that I don't know anything about the coins that I buy, it just means that I recognize my shortcoming and rely on PCGS for back-up just as I would rely on an expert in other endeavors.
<< <i>Doesn't mean a thing..... I just recently purchased and returned a PCGS mis-attributed DarkSide coin....... They had a $300 coin attributed as a $3000 coin....... a HUGE difference for someone who could not tell the difference.....
It does mean a thing.
If and when it was discovered that the coin was mis-attributed (or fake etc), I would expect and believe that PCGS would make me whole. I am not an expert and I could never spend the amount of time and effort that it would require for me to become as expert as the greders at PCGS.
This doesn't mean that I don't know anything about the coins that I buy, it just means that I recognize my shortcoming and rely on PCGS for back-up just as I would rely on an expert in other endeavors.
Joe. >>
Fortunately,I COULD tell the difference and returned the coin to the seller...... A reputable dealer..... I'm waiting to hear from them what the outcome was after a re-evaluation of the coin.... Whether it will also be called a "clerical error" or what... I've no dispute with the condition.... It was the attribution, which was also difficult to see due to the design of the slab....
<< <i>I had, in another thread, mentioned an 1866-S dime with a missing mintmark, that was slabbed as an 1866..... It did not pass the diagnostics of an 1866 dime.... but it was called a "Clerical Error" by the TPG.... >>
That stinks. I suppose if that same TPG (I think you said it was ANACS?) slabbed a 1909-S VDB cent and the S fell off in the slab, that they would claim they meant to say 1909 VDB on the slab instead of 1909-S VDB? What BS. They were trying to save themselves a few bucks instead of treating their customer right.
An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.
<< <i>I had, in another thread, mentioned an 1866-S dime with a missing mintmark, that was slabbed as an 1866..... It did not pass the diagnostics of an 1866 dime.... but it was called a "Clerical Error" by the TPG.... >>
That stinks. I suppose if that same TPG (I think you said it was ANACS?) slabbed a 1909-S VDB cent and the S fell off in the slab, that they would claim they meant to say 1909 VDB on the slab instead of 1909-S VDB? What BS. They were trying to save themselves a few bucks instead of treating their customer right. >>
Exactly.... Which is also the point I was trying to make with the issue of Mis-attribution.,.. Granted that it was a Great Britain farthing.... but if a TPG is going to certify a coin as a certain variety, then you would expect it to be that variety... THAT is the importance of KNOWING what you are buying... No one can know everything about everything... which is why these forums are an EXCELLENT source of information.... and we have all seen errors in labeling.....
Which, once again, is why I said that you can't take what is wriiten on the label as GOSPEL, you need to have a little knowlege too...... (I'm not referring to the issue of grading which we all know is subjective, but rather to the issue of attribution, which should be more objective and absolute....)
It is interesting that someone would only ask about 1/2 the retail or less. I know it is easy to arm chair quarterback, but why would anyone sell a coin listed for 10k for 4k. My guess is for a quick "greed" sale. I am glad I learned early on a $25.00 coin not to buy raw on ebay.
There are four reverse dies for the 1916-D. I would suggest anyone who wants to purchase one learn the four different mint marks.
President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay
Comments
<< <i>It (PCGS slabbing) does mean a thing, I'm pretty certain PCGS wouldn't slab a 1916-D dime that was made from two dimes planed and glued together. >>
I agree that most fakes would not make it to the slabbing stage..... However, I still believe that you should know your coins and not just take everything that is printed on the label as gospel.......... Such as attributions, varieties, etc......
<< <i>
<< <i>It (PCGS slabbing) does mean a thing, I'm pretty certain PCGS wouldn't slab a 1916-D dime that was made from two dimes planed and glued together. >>
I agree that most fakes would not make it to the slabbing stage..... However, I still believe that you should know your coins and not just take everything that is printed on the label as gospel.......... Such attributions, varieties, etc...... >>
I agree with you. Just pointing out that this particular coin wouldn't have gotten past the eagle eyes at PCGS.
An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>It (PCGS slabbing) does mean a thing, I'm pretty certain PCGS wouldn't slab a 1916-D dime that was made from two dimes planed and glued together. >>
I agree that most fakes would not make it to the slabbing stage..... However, I still believe that you should know your coins and not just take everything that is printed on the label as gospel.......... Such as attributions, varieties, etc...... >>
I agree with you. Just pointing out that this particular coin wouldn't have gotten past the eagle eyes at PCGS. >>
It very likely would not have gotten past a knowledgeable and astute collector, under DIRECT examination.... A picture can hide a multitude of sins.... This coin probably would not even ring properly since it was created from 2 pieces.....
My 1916-D, 1893-S, etc... are all lower grade.. I felt they past the diagnostics, but I still felt better with a RELIABLE TPG corroborating my assessment.... But had I been in doubt, I probably never would have even purchased them originally....
I had, in another thread, mentioned an 1866-S dime with a missing mintmark, that was slabbed as an 1866..... It did not pass the diagnostics of an 1866 dime.... but it was called a "Clerical Error" by the TPG....
ONCE AGAIN, ALWAYS TRY TO KNOW YOUR COINS... and BUY THE BOOK BEFORE THE COIN!!!!!
KNOWLEGE is KEY....
It does mean a thing.
If and when it was discovered that the coin was mis-attributed (or fake etc), I would expect and believe that PCGS would make me whole. I am not an expert and I could never spend the amount of time and effort that it would require for me to become as expert as the greders at PCGS.
This doesn't mean that I don't know anything about the coins that I buy, it just means that I recognize my shortcoming and rely on PCGS for back-up just as I would rely on an expert in other endeavors.
Joe.
<< <i>Doesn't mean a thing..... I just recently purchased and returned a PCGS mis-attributed DarkSide coin....... They had a $300 coin attributed as a $3000 coin....... a HUGE difference for someone who could not tell the difference.....
It does mean a thing.
If and when it was discovered that the coin was mis-attributed (or fake etc), I would expect and believe that PCGS would make me whole. I am not an expert and I could never spend the amount of time and effort that it would require for me to become as expert as the greders at PCGS.
This doesn't mean that I don't know anything about the coins that I buy, it just means that I recognize my shortcoming and rely on PCGS for back-up just as I would rely on an expert in other endeavors.
Joe. >>
Fortunately,I COULD tell the difference and returned the coin to the seller...... A reputable dealer..... I'm waiting to hear from them what the outcome was after a re-evaluation of the coin.... Whether it will also be called a "clerical error" or what... I've no dispute with the condition.... It was the attribution, which was also difficult to see due to the design of the slab....
<< <i>I had, in another thread, mentioned an 1866-S dime with a missing mintmark, that was slabbed as an 1866..... It did not pass the diagnostics of an 1866 dime.... but it was called a "Clerical Error" by the TPG.... >>
That stinks. I suppose if that same TPG (I think you said it was ANACS?) slabbed a 1909-S VDB cent and the S fell off in the slab, that they would claim they meant to say 1909 VDB on the slab instead of 1909-S VDB? What BS. They were trying to save themselves a few bucks instead of treating their customer right.
An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.
<< <i>
<< <i>I had, in another thread, mentioned an 1866-S dime with a missing mintmark, that was slabbed as an 1866..... It did not pass the diagnostics of an 1866 dime.... but it was called a "Clerical Error" by the TPG.... >>
That stinks. I suppose if that same TPG (I think you said it was ANACS?) slabbed a 1909-S VDB cent and the S fell off in the slab, that they would claim they meant to say 1909 VDB on the slab instead of 1909-S VDB? What BS. They were trying to save themselves a few bucks instead of treating their customer right.
Exactly.... Which is also the point I was trying to make with the issue of Mis-attribution.,.. Granted that it was a Great Britain farthing.... but if a TPG is going to certify a coin as a certain variety, then you would expect it to be that variety... THAT is the importance of KNOWING what you are buying... No one can know everything about everything... which is why these forums are an EXCELLENT source of information.... and we have all seen errors in labeling.....
Which, once again, is why I said that you can't take what is wriiten on the label as GOSPEL, you need to have a little knowlege too...... (I'm not referring to the issue of grading which we all know is subjective, but rather to the issue of attribution, which should be more objective and absolute....)
There are four reverse dies for the 1916-D. I would suggest anyone who wants to purchase one learn the four different mint marks.
President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay