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vintage ryans...grade or raw

would you grade these or sell raw? i'm selling for a friend. i normally sell cards from the 80s and 90s and haven't researched much of the late 60s and 70s. just looking for a few opinions. there are no creases and backs appear clean with centering that matches the front.

imageimage


Thanks,

David (LD_Ferg)



1985 Topps Football (starting in psa 8) - #9 - started 05/21/06

Comments

  • grote15grote15 Posts: 29,761 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd grade the '70 for sure, absolutely. Looks like a high grade 7, maybe an 8 to me. The '69 is OC with some corner wear, not sure if it's worth sending that one in.


    Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
  • Bosox1976Bosox1976 Posts: 8,564 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Raw on the 1970. Don't know much about 69's.
    Mike
    Bosox1976
  • I'd grade both... simply because there's so much counterfeiting and trimming going on with vintage Ryans that it scares a lot of folks off from buying raw.
    Nolan Ryan & Edgar Martinez are my favorite players...
    image
    mosaic's Nolan Ryan Basic Topps registry set
    mosaic's Big 3 Nolan Ryan Run Showcase
  • grade both, they will look gorgeous in SGC slabs
  • storm888storm888 Posts: 11,701 ✭✭✭
    I would grade both.

    They will look nice and sell easily in PSA slabs.

    Folks Who Bite Get Bitten. Folks Who Don't Bite Get Eaten.
  • One could go either way on these. The 69 looks like a very low end 5 to me and the 70 looks like a mid 6 as all corners show at least a little wear. The 70 looks nice enough where it might actually sell for more raw than in a 6 slab. The average buyer of the 69 will note the obvious corner wear and centering and know it is likely not altered. I don't see much profit slabbing these but still may be wise to cover your tail. Hard to argue with the opinion of PSA when a customer complains about stated condition.
    "One you start thinking you're the best then you might as well quit because you wont get any better" - Dale Earnhardt
  • zef204zef204 Posts: 4,742 ✭✭


    << <i>Hard to argue with the opinion of PSA when a customer complains about stated condition. >>


    I agree with this point, but... disagree here:



    << <i>70 looks like a mid 6 as all corners show at least a little wear >>



    From the scan I think the 70 is a lock 7 and would be MUCH better off graded.
    EAMUS CATULI!

    My Auctions
  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭
    I wouldn't grade either of them if they aren't PSA 8 quality. You'd be amazed what raw NM vintage will sell for. Anyone who doesn't believe me needs to do a quick search and compare, say, PSA 7 prices on pre-1972 cards and what those same cards sell for raw. It's almost identical. With a large scan you'll do just fine selling these as is, and you won't have your money tied up for 2 months while they languish on a shelf in Newport Beach.

    There are really only two reasons to grade a card. Either a) it's a card that has set registry appeal, but not much appeal outside of that context, so getting it holdered will raise its value considerably, or b) It's in nice enough condition such that a buyer might seriously wonder if the card has been altered. If it doesn't meet one of those criteria there isn't much point in it. Ebay does a very nice job of making sure that most collectibles, if presented by a seller with excellent feedback and good pictures/scans, will sell for what they are actually worth. Let the system work for you.

    Edit to add: Some cards, for whatever reason, don't present well in a scan. If this card is one of those then I'd get it graded. But I'll bet if you sold that card raw, with that particular scan, you'd get $125 for it.
  • grote15grote15 Posts: 29,761 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd agree that the '69 may be better off sold raw, but the '70 is defintely worth grading, IMO.


    Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
  • Wouldn't grade the 69 and the 70 would be a 7 at best. I'd save my grading money on something else.


  • << <i>grade both, they will look gorgeous in SGC slabs >>



    they may look gorgeous, but the value takes a hit as soon as it goes in the green slab....

    search SGC on ebay....not much going on (excpet for a 1914CJ)....and the prices are usually low, and the bids few....

    but southerncards, to each his own...i can say 1 good thing about southerncards....he doesnt like BGS


  • << <i>

    << <i>grade both, they will look gorgeous in SGC slabs >>



    they may look gorgeous, but the value takes a hit as soon as it goes in the green slab....

    search SGC on ebay....not much going on (excpet for a 1914CJ)....and the prices are usually low, and the bids few....

    but southerncards, to each his own...i can say 1 good thing about southerncards....he doesnt like BGS >>



    We can start this argument over and over again. Anyone can find examples of who outsells who and vice versa. I doubt seriously though that the value "takes a hit" in an SGC slab, although some of us who encapsulate do not do it for the value. You are correct about one thing, I despise anything Beckett
  • bri2327bri2327 Posts: 3,178 ✭✭
    Sell both raw.

    There are two parts to my reasoning, both of which involve what people perceive the grade to be compared to what PSA would actually grade the card as.

    Generally, people around these boards are knowledgeable folks with a great deal of experience in the graded card game. Yet, more often than not when someone presents a raw card and asks for opinions the replies come in too high for what the actually grade would end up being. Proof of this lies in all the unhappy posts when grades pop. There are 10 or 20 posts with people scratching their heads in amazement for every 1 post where someone was pleasantly surprised, graded accurately beforehand, and so on.

    Now factor in the less inexperienced collector who doesnt have nearly the knowledge of those here, or the stringent grading standards at PSA and its easy to see how cards that present well will more often than not be perceived as at least 1 or 2 grades higher than they would actually receive.

    To me its a no brainer.

    The '70 Ryan wouldnt grade higher than a 6 at PSA eight out of ten times. Selling raw that card will bring close a PSA 7 price eight out of ten times.

    The '69 could very easily end up in a PSA 4 holder, and certainly no better than a PSA 5 on its best day. Sell it raw and chances are it will bring $50 or so which is far more than a PSA 4 would bring when you factor time, grading, insuring and shipping costs.
    "The other teams could make trouble for us if they win."
    -- Yogi Berra

    image
  • <<<To me its a no brainer.

    The '70 Ryan wouldnt grade higher than a 6 at PSA eight out of ten times. Selling raw that card will bring close a PSA 7 price eight out of ten times.

    The '69 could very easily end up in a PSA 4 holder, and certainly no better than a PSA 5 on its best day. Sell it raw and chances are it will bring $50 or so which is far more than a PSA 4 would bring when you factor time, grading, insuring and shipping costs. >>>>



    image
    Mark B.

    Seeking primarily PSA graded pre-war "type" cards

    My PSA Registry Sets

    34 Goudey, 75 Topps Mini, Hall of Fame Complete Set, 1985 Topps Tiffany, Hall of Fame Players Complete Set
  • The 69 ryan would be a waste of time to get graded. Its obviously a low grade card.

    The key to the 1970 Ryan is its centering. Your example is centered close to perfect. centering can be tough for 1970 ryan's. The last 3 PSA 7 Ryan's sold for right around $125. I just sold a off centered NRMT (Raw) Ryan for $75. I think that selling raw will not hurt the bottom line if you mention centering in the auction title

    1970 Topps High #712 Nolan Ryan Mets NRMT - CENTERED!!

    Link to my current Ebay auctions

    "If I ever decided to do a book, I've already got the title-The Bases Were Loaded and So Was I"-Jim Fregosi
  • spending $2 or $3 for a buy it now listing at the price you want can many times save you the $20-25psa grading fees/shipping to/from psa.

    i'd start with $150 for the 70' and $60 for the 69'. no takers in a few days lower each by $10.
  • -for the '69, i say trim about 1/16" off the left border and get a purple pen to fill in that pesky little pink dot.

    -for the '70, you can trim about 1/24" inch off the bottom.

    sell both of them raw on ebay as 'pack fresh' and say they're both locks for at least 9's......


    these two pics side by side look like they were taken within seconds of each other.....

    seriously tho, i'd sell them raw. but i'd leave off the fact that yr selling them for a friend- just sounds fishy, like you found them cleaning grandpa's attic.
  • ldfergldferg Posts: 6,747 ✭✭✭
    i decided to get them graded:

    1 31843030 1970 TOPPS 712 NOLAN RYAN N/A 6 (i was hoping for a 7)
    2 31843031 1969 TOPPS 533 NOLAN RYAN N/A 5

    can't complain about a 2nd and 3rd year ryan. i think these are keepers for now.


    Thanks,

    David (LD_Ferg)



    1985 Topps Football (starting in psa 8) - #9 - started 05/21/06
  • GootGoot Posts: 3,496
    Nice grades for those cards. Sorry you didn't get a 7 but Congrats!
  • AhmanfanAhmanfan Posts: 4,398 ✭✭✭✭
    so you bought them from your friend?
    Collecting
    HOF SIGNED FOOTBALL RCS
  • ldfergldferg Posts: 6,747 ✭✭✭
    yes. i bought the 2 ryans and sold some of his other cards for him. i've still got a few raw rookies from the 80s (ie. sandberg, gwynn, mattingly, etc...) that i think would grade nm 7. i don't think i'll bother with grading those.


    Thanks,

    David (LD_Ferg)



    1985 Topps Football (starting in psa 8) - #9 - started 05/21/06
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