Most sought after BB set from 1948-56??

I'm visiting a gentleman this weekend who has all the baseball sets from 1948-56. Specifically, he has 48 Bowman, 49 Bowman, 50 Bowman, 51 Bowman, 51 Red Backs & Blue Backs, 52 Bowman, 53 Topps, 54 Topps & Bowman, 55 Topps & Bowman, and 56 Topps. He also has some 50s football sets also. They are in decent shape also as I have purchased 4 1954 Topps BB singles from him. Any ideas on what I should focus on? He also has several non-sportscard sets from the 50s. I know he mentioned Davey Crockett but not sure what else.
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http://sportsfansnews.com/author/andy-fischer/
http://sportsfansnews.com/author/andy-fischer/
http://sportsfansnews.com/author/andy-fischer/
Have a beer with him; several, preferably.
Then check the sets for condition. If they're all the same condition, skip this step.
Make sure the sets are complete. Often times, people represent complete sets that have already been slightly cherry picked.
If he has Crockett cards, check to see if they are the green backs. Much harder to find than the orange backs.
Make sure he's drunker than you before negotiating.
"All evil needs to triumph is for good men to do nothing."
<< <i>I'm visiting a gentleman this weekend who has all the baseball sets from 1948-56. Specifically, he has 48 Bowman, 49 Bowman, 50 Bowman, 51 Bowman, 51 Red Backs & Blue Backs, 52 Bowman, 53 Topps, 54 Topps & Bowman, 55 Topps & Bowman, and 56 Topps. He also has some 50s football sets also. They are in decent shape also as I have purchased 4 1954 Topps BB singles from him. Any ideas on what I should focus on? He also has several non-sportscard sets from the 50s. I know he mentioned Davey Crockett but not sure what else. >>
PM me if he has some 55 Topps All Americans, please
Try to get the seller to bid against himself.
"Once we agree on values, I always pay cash right away."
"So, have you decided approximately what kind of money you
would like to have for the whole collection?"
Do whatever is necessary to rope the seller into making the
first dollar-quote.
When a seller simply will not give-up his bottom line, you
can shift to a discussion of "book values" and try to force
him to tell you what percent of that number he "would like
to have."
Then, move the discussion to grade-levels of the cards.
"Good" condition means something other than "good"
to most one-time sellers. Use that to your advantage
in using the price guides. Show the seller what the
guides say "good" cards retail for.
Cash is king. If you cannot at least double or triple your
money on large buys, they are seldom worth making. Most
one-time sellers need the cash alot more than you need the
cards; it is expesnive to run ads to buy cards, and it is
expensive to run ads to sell cards. Always concentrate on
making LOTS of money to compensate for the expense and
the effort.
Non-sports heats up almost daily.
All of your profits must be made on the buy-side, not the sell-side.
<< <i>Make sure he's drunker than you before negotiating. >>