My Graf Zeppelin plate blocks
fry46
Posts: 35
in Stamps Forum
I started a thread asking about grading of blocks and posted photos of my Zep plate blocks. We decided that I should open
another thread so that others might notice the blocks. The best is the $2.60, which is OG, nh, but the gum has creases (or
bends on two stamps). I cut the plate number off the scan of the $2.60, so the file was small enough to be uploaded here,
since there is a 50 kb limit per image. The flange (or whatever it is properly called) on the $2.60 is very much like the other two.
The flange on the $2.60 has almost no gum.
Oh, the tape on the $1.30 is on the guard, not the stamp.
Anyway here they are:
another thread so that others might notice the blocks. The best is the $2.60, which is OG, nh, but the gum has creases (or
bends on two stamps). I cut the plate number off the scan of the $2.60, so the file was small enough to be uploaded here,
since there is a 50 kb limit per image. The flange (or whatever it is properly called) on the $2.60 is very much like the other two.
The flange on the $2.60 has almost no gum.
Oh, the tape on the $1.30 is on the guard, not the stamp.
Anyway here they are:
0
Comments
Very nice!
KJ
Jerry
The other two, the 65 cents and the $1.30, are also original gum, but not quite as nice as the $2.60
By the way, I have had them for more than 20 years and the guy that I got them from bought them in the 1950s (I think), so he had them for 30 years. They have only changed hands once in the last 50 years.
Jerry
I have a block of 4 with a plate number of the baby Zep, but did not post it for two reasons. One, it is not a Graf. Two, a block of four with a plate number is not a plate block.
No, I agree with you that this is a distinct set of three stamps, C13 to C15. C18 does not make it.
As far as liking the baby Zep, it is OK, but I do not think that it is anywhere near as attractive as the Graf Zeps.
Obviously the newest, latest and greatest in stamps is expertizing and grading.
As I understand it, neither PSE nor PF (the Philatelic Foundation) will grade my Graf Zeps, since they are plate blocks and I surely will not break up these blocks so that single stamps can be graded.
Is there any point in getting them expertized, if they can't be graded? Why should I spend $1,000 or so to pay someone to say that yes the three blocks are real and have real original gum?
If I auctioned these, shouldn't the stamp auction house be able to say that the stamps are real and the gum is original and NH, or is that something special?
Do the expertizers evaluate the gum and say whether the $2.60 has a gum crease or a bend, or is that part of grading?
I really do know the answers to this. It just seems that the real advantage is to get nice stamps like these graded, but it appears that I can not do that.
As I said in the other thread, though I have had stamps for nearly 50 years (and had these and my other better stamps for 25 years), I just found out about expertizing, grading, etc., during the past month.
This is the first time in years that I have come back to my stamps, so I am a novice regarding these issues.
hurt the value if and when you sell it, especially on such a high dollar item(except to someone who is inexperienced) Otherwise certs will probably help the value some, especially in confirming that they are never-hinged. Auction houses will say anything to sell your stuff but if it isn't described correctly that doesn't mean the buyer will not return the item(s)
By the way a single C15 MNH is valued in the SMQ at $2,800 as a 95 and $5,700 as a 98. Probably more at auction.
By the way, I certainly appreciate you help.
"A gum bend is justthat, the paper and gum have troughlike bend, usually in a diagonal rather than verticle horizontal direction."(just as appears on your block) When the stamp is immersed in lighter or watermark fluid there will be no dark line along the length of the bend ,and there may or may not be a slight white flashing as the fluid dries more quickly along the bend. While collectors prefer stamps without gum bends, if they are minor the value will not be significantly affected.Pse calls gum bends only if there are two or more or one is at the borderline between a bend and a crease"
"A gum crease will dip as a dark line in the fluid and will flash white as the fluid dries..." "If a gum crease dips dark and flashes (white) over a significant length PSE will call it and lower the stamps soundness grade."(if graded that is but even if it isn't graded it will probably be mentioned in the description on the cert )
There is also info on gum wrinkles but I would say from your photo it is probably not a wrinkle on your block.
You need a watermark tray or other flat bottom black colored tray(it's safer bet to get a watermark tray from a stanp dealer or online as some plastics will react to dissolve with lighter fluid, I know that sounds scary so buy a watermark tray designed for this purpose. They're generally cheap)Use stamp tongs to put the block in the tray with the design facing down. Add enough fluid to just saturate the stamp(lighter fluid is better than watermark fluid in my opinion and many experts have recommended it also it's perfectly safe) Leaving it in the tray, examine the areas where the bends or creases are and see if you see a "dark line" if there is one down the whole length of the bend then it is most likely a crease if not it is probably a bend(if you happen to notice any dark areas anywhere else on the stamp this may be an indication of tears, creases, creased corner perfs or separated perfs). If there is only a partial dark line then it might be still classified as a bend. Once again with the block still in the tray watch the area of the bends as the fluid evaporates. If you see the area turn white along the bend then it may be an indication of a crease or heavy bend and you will proably have already seen a significant dark line previous to the drying. If there is just a little or no white flashing this is indicative of a bend. If you see any other areas drying (turning whiter) such as on corner perfs this may be an indication of bent perfs or tiny tears that are very difficult to see when the stamp is dry. You should check the stamps at least two or three times to make sure you haven't missed anything. Leave the block in the tray until it dries, just to be safe I would leave the block out of any mount etc. for at least half an hour.
Hope this helps. Any questions?
As far as a watermark tray, all of the one that I see on Ebay or on-line look small - too small for a large PB, such as these. There are no dimensions given, but they lok big enough for only one or two stamps.
Do you know if anyone makes trays big enough to hold the Zep PBs?
It would be a shame to break them up -- I suspect the number of Graf Zepp plate blocks existing like that could be in the single digits or at least low double digits. If PSE were to grade (or even encapsulate) blocks like these, this might keep such treasures from being broken up. On the cert, perhaps they could assign a grade to each stamp, like NGC assigns a grade to each individual coin in an NGC multi-holder.
The stamps really are a more vivid color in real life than in my scan. They are just very pretty.
The 65 cent and $1.30 blocks aren't bad either.
If I could get this graded and even encapsulated, I gladly would - even if it cost $1,000 or more just for the one $2.60 block.
The centering is not great, so even 80 might be tough, though the gum is good and the color is nice.
One more thing, the plate number for this block is the same as the plate block. Is there any premium in keeping them as a set.
I do not know if I am going to auction this stuff or not, but appreciate your help in understanding the stamp market today.
Jerry
BTW, you have some nice zepps.
Doug, thanks. I agree that for this block even getting 80s might be hard. From that you are probably right that leaving the block in tact probably makes sense.
It also looks neat with the other $2.60 Zep with the same plate number.
Jerry
<< <i>I wouldn't get any of these actually graded. But if you are going to break it up you could get regular certificates(i.e. "genuine unused, original gum, never hinged") for each stamp and leaving the one plate number on the stamp connected to it, that might add a little value to someone. I wouldn't get any grade lower than a 90 on any of the Zep issues if you want to get any significant value from an actual grade on the certificate(an 80 might hurt the value more than no grade). And by the way on the comment that extant blocks are in the one or two digits, I doubt that. These aren't especially rare stamps but they are VERY popular(a higher demand than supply) On the block of 4 you might get as low as a 75 on the ones with the very small bottom border. >>
I am guessing that the comment regarding quantity related to the fact that the $2.60 PB is really very nice looking. None of the stamps are poorly centered and a couple are really quite nice. While it does not show on the scan, the colors really are quite vivid in real life.
I have not yet had the chance to check out the gum with the watermark tray (since I do not have a tray as of yet), but that is really the only possible major flaw on any of the stamps.
In any event, there are probably not a whole lot of PBs with nicer looking $2.60 Zeps. Whether that is 10 or 20, obviously no one knows.
Anyway, that block will either be the highlight of my collection, or should get a pretty nice bid at auction. I still do not know which way that will go.
"Keep your malarkey filter in good operating order" -Walter Breen