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Question to all buffalo nickel collectors...

drddmdrddm Posts: 5,464 ✭✭✭✭✭
I'm thinking about buying a nice example of a buffalo nickel and was wondering what specific key areas (obverse and reverse) I need to focus on when looking for one with a strong strike and nice overall eye appeal.

Thanks for all your responses and opinions.

Dave

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    JulioJulio Posts: 2,501
    I'm a neophyte. This a somewhat hard series to define. Strike can vary along with almost all attributes from coin to coin.
    Strike, luster, eye appeal, horn, and the list goes on.
    A most intriguing series to me. jws
    image
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    << <i>I'm thinking about buying a nice example of a buffalo nickel and was wondering what specific key areas (obverse and reverse) I need to focus on when looking for one with a strong strike and nice overall eye appeal.

    Thanks for all your responses and opinions.

    Dave >>



    Well, check out this thread for the answer to the "eye appeal" portion of your question.

    A Buffalo with "Eye Appeal"
    Collecting eye-appealing Proof and MS Indian Head Cents, 1858 Flying Eagle and IHC patterns and beautiful toned coins.

    “It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so.” Mark Twain
    Newmismatist
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    gyocomgdgyocomgd Posts: 2,582 ✭✭✭
    If I were you, I'd go after a 1913 Type 1, 1915, 1916, 1936 or 1937--Philly mint. 1937-S and 1938-D are lustrous and well struck, too.
    obverse: Look for a full, sharp date and lettering, and excellent definition in the Indian's hair, the creases of which should extend almost into the hair knot. The knot itself should sharp horizontal/diagonal creases.

    Reverse: full definition on the bison's head and hide. A full, sharp horn that stands out clearly. The tail should be split at the tip, and should stand out very sharply atop the animal's rump.

    That's sort of a 101 course. Maybe 100. image
    image
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    You might want to go with a 1921 cause they have more detail in the hair area like the proofs . Other than that I would go with a 1913 type one or 36 , 37 , 38 . Stay away from the 20's branch mint coins and the 34-d is a hard coin to find with a nice strike also. 1913 Type two's are normally weaker struck than their type 1 counterparts. The hubs were reworked in 1916 to make the LIBERTY stronger and other details , so this may be a good choice also. Have fun.
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    Cam40Cam40 Posts: 8,146
    image
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    capecape Posts: 1,621
    dave, each date has different striking characteristics. you really should scour past auction images and learn the series. also buy the david lange book on buffalo nickels as you can really learn alot from reading this book. hope this helps!
    ed rodrigues
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    JJMJJM Posts: 8,129 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I was in the same boat as you and wanted 1 nice example,....as another poster responded above a 37-S is a good choice,....thats what I got this past weekend with a great strike, overall golden tone, with blue rim toning on rev....went with a MS65 in a PCGS OGH....I am very please for the money....($60)
    👍BST's erickso1,cone10,MICHAELDIXON,TennesseeDave,p8nt,jmdm1194,RWW,robkool,Ahrensdad,Timbuk3,Downtown1974,bigjpst,mustanggt,Yorkshireman,idratherbgardening,SurfinxHI,derryb,masscrew,Walkerguy21D,MJ1927,sniocsu,Coll3tor,doubleeagle07,luciobar1980,PerryHall,SNMAM,mbcoin,liefgold,keyman64,maprince230,TorinoCobra71,RB1026,Weiss,LukeMarshall,Wingsrule,Silveryfire, pointfivezero,IKE1964,AL410, Tdec1000, AnkurJ,guitarwes,Type2,Bp777,jfoot113,JWP,mattniss,dantheman984,jclovescoins,Collectorcoins,Weather11am,Namvet69,kansasman,Bruce7789,ADG,Larrob37,Waverly, justindan
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    koynekwestkoynekwest Posts: 10,048 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Dave-

    If you'd like to send me a PM with your email address I'll attach and send a few pages from my Buffalo nickel abraded die book that thoroughly covers the issue of the strike.

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    I'd go 1913 T1, or 1915. Such good strikes there. Look for eye appeal then! Buy what you really like to look at! A little original honey brown patina is nice, perhaps even a hint of blue... watch for dings on the devices and look for smooth fields.
    That is my rookie approach to buying decent coins.
    Oh, did I mention to not spend big money on non holdered coins until you really, really know how to identify problem coins????
    Too many whizzed and cleaned buffs out there...image

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