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The self sustaining hobby...

Has anyone here (who's not a full time card dealer) managed to get you collection to the point where it kind of pays for itself, through the "buy raw, sell graded" route or through buying sets and selling off everything, etc)?

It seems to me like this would be possible w/o turning the hobby into a job.
My Giants collection want list

WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
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Comments

  • Interesting point, digicat ....

    I've also thought about this --- has anyone done it:
    Set up an LLC or dba/sole prop as a "dealer" --- but don't really deal much ... use the tax advantage (e..g. buy everything tax free like dealers do) to buy stuff you like --- sell some of it via ebay or stores -- but mostly your "business" is your own collection.

    You would also be able to write-off your grading fees, ebay costs, etc.

    Is that way too big of hassle for the realized savings in taxes?

    -Tom
    - Building these sets:
    ------- 1960 Topps Baseball PSA 8+
    ------- 1985 Topps Hockey PSA 9+
  • I think that you would need the right mix of hobby experience, knowledge, and luck to make it work. And I think that it would be very difficult to do it successfully without investing a certain amount of time to the point where it would almost be a job. Unless you have been sitting a stash of high-grade raw cards, your best bet would be to scope out eBay and the auction houses for lots to break up or find poorly listed auctions to win low and flip high. As someone who spends a considerable amount of free time surfing eBay and auction sites as well as buying and selling on eBay, I would classify it as a part time job if I wanted to make the whole thing self-sustaining. That's just my opinion though.
  • BigDaddyBowmanBigDaddyBowman Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭
    I tell my wife that I do this all the time. "No honey I am not spending thousands a year...I just sell a few of my lower graded or ungraded cards as I upgrade with better. I'm breaking even!" I doubt she believes me..I think she just humors me, she must know better!

    Actually, I usually try this during the summer months when I am off of work. I will start with a cushion of $300-500 in paypal. I then sell off my extras or my lower grades to add to the pot, as I buy up. This tends to work out. Basically I upgraded about 50-75 cards this summer for a little 500 bucks.
  • JasP24JasP24 Posts: 4,645 ✭✭✭
    I'm in the process of simply upgrading my sets now, since I am currently at 100% on them all...So when I do make a new purchase, I get the proceeds of selling off the old card...Obviously doesn't pay for my new buys 100%, but it does pay 30-50%...

    I also know my niche market (NFL HOF RCs) well, and sometimes purchase graded cards to re-sell them at a small profit.

    Jason
    I'm here to question, not to inspire or build up. To live how I want, as I see fit,
    according to my values and my needs. Nothing holds dominion over me, I stand alone as the ruler of my life.
  • Finally, this topic comes up. I wanted to post it but didn't get around to it. So, can anyone answer whether it's worth it to try as a part-time business or not with the tax breaks/advantages or not? I would settle for even making $100-$200 a month or every other month since I enjoy it so much. I'm not quitting my full-time job by any means. I do have 3 day weekends every week due to working 4 ten hour days so I have every Fri, Sat & Sun off(have to watch the 18 month old on Fridays). I probably have a legit $2,000-$3000 worth of material, mostly 60s and 70s baseball HOFers that are graded. No huge high $$ cards. My most expensive are 2 '64 Mantles that are EX and EX-MT, 2 '58 Pee Wee Reese PSA 8, 60 Clemente PSA 7 and 2 '70 Rose PSA 8. Again, great topic and looking forward to the comments. I love reading this board!!!


  • << <i>Has anyone here (who's not a full time card dealer) managed to get you collection to the point where it kind of pays for itself, through the "buy raw, sell graded" route or through buying sets and selling off everything, etc)?

    It seems to me like this would be possible w/o turning the hobby into a job. >>


    Definitely. I pay for all the cards I want and have been fortunate enough to be able to set a substantial amount aside.
  • What's your method jmbkb4? I had thought about buying complete sets raw and trying to resell. Since the $$ amount comes out more if you sell them as singles it looks like that may be the best route for a little profit. Is that the best idea or is buying raw and then getting them graded the only and best way to do it? I've had a hard time doing that since you basically get mostly 1/2 SMR for 60s HOFers in 7s or 8s or at least that's my experience with the exception of certain issues such as 62 and 71 Topps baseball. It's just so hard to find good raw stuff these days, at least in 50s-70s stuff. I think I'm putting a want ad in the paper next week to see how that works.
  • My income is limited (whose isnt ??) but I dont use any "family" money. Minus the occasional pack from Target. Used to be terrible at it but now I usually focus on 10 or so areas so my pricing is accurate/up to date. I usually make $1-40 on a transaction. Rarely $40, Probally twice but thats how I afford my FF collection. I only look for sure things. But its my second job when Im at work and used to cut into family time too much. Lots of money to be made and without doing it I couldnt afford the few cards I have.
    imageimageimage
  • If you created a dba and got a tax id number --- you could essentially get tax-free "dealer price" on new product, as well as those re-sellers who will sell to other dealers tax free. You could also write-off everything related to the expenses (grading fees, ebay/paypal fees, etc). They'll be the initial pain in getting it set up, plus the ongoing extra paperwork/bookkeeping --- but it seems like a no-brainer to me.

    Am I crazy?

    -t
    - Building these sets:
    ------- 1960 Topps Baseball PSA 8+
    ------- 1985 Topps Hockey PSA 9+
  • The grading fees would add to the basis of the inventory, would not be an expense.

    Peace

    Doug
    Trying to complete 1970 psa set.
    45% complete.


  • << <i>I think that you would need the right mix of hobby experience, knowledge, and luck to make it work. And I think that it would be very difficult to do it successfully without investing a certain amount of time to the point where it would almost be a job. >>



    Exactly. You really need to have good raw finds at card shows and on ebay. And that takes a lot of work because 1.) People usually overestimate the price of their cards 2.) A good percentage (didnt say all) of high grade cards are slabbed and 3.) there is too much variance in the grading of raw cards...so, it's very difficult to detect a ex from a nm in a lot of cases (especially when you are not handling the card, as in the case of ebay). Add #4 into the mix, which are the cautions of buying raw on ebay (trimmed, reprint, sellers who underestimate grade), and you get quite a challenging task on your hand.

    Now, if your collection is modest...i can probably see this happening. For instance, if im trying to sell 50's and 60's cards...and my collection comprises of 1988 donruss and 1991 topps....then, sure....one good stroke of luck, and youve got your collection paid for. Otherwise, good luck....because you'll need to invest a good amount of time, leg work and even initial cash (not to mention thick skin and some good luck) to get a sizable enough profit to pay for vintage collections.
  • DeutscherGeistDeutscherGeist Posts: 2,990 ✭✭✭✭
    I don't fully comprehend the discussion, but it sounds like how does one become a part-time dealer. A self-sustaining collection? That is hard to do. One has to be sitting on a gold mine to start off with.

    However, I have been thinking about an LLC. I would then rent storage space and contact topps chewing gum company to sell me cases of baseball, movie and garbage pail kids cards and sell them on ebay along with things I no longer want in my collection. Then I can right off storage space, ebay fees, postage, etc. I need storage space anyway for a few of my belongings even though it will mostly house the cases. I wonder if it can work the way I am imaging it. I think in a 5 year span, the LLC must make a profit at least 3 of those years in order for losses to be tax deductable. Well, how about running the business at only a slight profit. The advantage is that you can right off the cards and cases you want for your own personal collection.

    I have such a small collection that it is far from sustainable. I always buy.....
    "So many of our DREAMS at first seem impossible, then they seem improbable, and then, when we SUMMON THE WILL they soon become INEVITABLE "- Christopher Reeve

    BST: Tennessebanker, Downtown1974, LarkinCollector, nendee
  • GriffinsGriffins Posts: 6,076 ✭✭✭
    I think it would be possible, but it would be easier to do with a lot of working capitol.
    I see large lots in auction houses all the time that sell and then show up in pieces on ebay. Tracking some of them, I can see the sellers make a pretty decent profit. Once you get over 15-20K in a big auction it shakes out a lot of people, and the lot is often worth more than the sum of its parts. The biggest competition in these type of auctions are on the smaller lots- <5K. I think it's a lot tougher to flip those.
    I'm pretty much as the same point as Jason, I'm mostly upgrading, so even when I buy something I get something back, just about always more than I paid for it (due to rising prices and holding it a while). I've just never been able to sell a card I didn't have a better one of, and I think that is the problem with being a dealer- you have to not be attached to this stuff, so you can sell when 2 guys get into it for registry bragging rights.

    Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's

  • BigDaddyBowmanBigDaddyBowman Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I I've just never been able to sell a card I didn't have a better one of, and I think that is the problem with being a dealer- you have to not be attached to this stuff, so you can sell when 2 guys get into it for registry bragging rights. >>





    That's one of my biggest problems...I tried to deal at shows about 15 years ago..but I simply could not sell my collection. I felt like I was losing a family member! What I do though, is look for "deals" and resell them as I progress up the ladder of upgrading. If I have a PSA 6, I search for a PSA 7 for as much or little more than what I paid for the 6..then I resell the 6. Sometimes I can do it quickly...sometimes it might take a year or two. I have been able to upgrade and only spend slightly more. Sometimes I can resell the lesser grade card for more than the higher grade. Supply/demand and luck plays a part obviously.
  • It can work. However, the key, as stated above, is you need to spend in the $15,000+ range to make it work. I built a 1933 Goudey set and a 1941 Play Ball set this way. I bought large lots from Mastro and other auction houses and then sold enough to recoup my investment. I would end up retaining around 20% of the lot for no cost. I would then buy another lot until I built a set for minimal cost. You need to know the set and be very certain on your profit margin. After doing this by trial and error, I came up with a % formula to base my bid on. In addition, I would avoid raw card purchases and focus on PSA graded sets/lots. With some homework and around $15,000, it will work.

    David
  • The key is that you have to build an advantage for yourself.

    Alot of working capital is a definite advantage. I see posts on net 54 or other boards all the time about the latest Mastro auction or whatever it is, and they're looking for a partner or someone only needs a few cards. Very few people have $10-15-20 k that they can spend just like that. The higher the lot value, I would think the higher the break value.

    If you know the set well and build a network of buyers, there's not much downside.

    Unless you've got great sources, playing the raw/graded game is extremely hit or miss. And it's a diminishing game as more and more cards get graded.

    An advantage here would be knowing the seller personally. If your friends/co workers know you collect cards you could offer them a percentage of the deal if they know of someones old time collection. It's remote, but you might find something good.

    I belonged to an online business networking site, and as a hobby, listed collecting cards. Someone messaged me out of the blue about a card collection (it was 88-92 stuff), but hey....you never know.
  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,438 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Good question/discussion.

    To accomplish this goal - since no one has discovered/invented perpetual motion to satisfy a "self-sustaining hobby" - one has to create a steady state between one's selling inventory and collecting inventory.

    KEY: just look at all of the threads that have been started about - "I sold this on ebay and.........."
    Many times it involves a sale that's gone south for the winter...

    So, no matter how you slice or dice it, this looks like work - i.e. - a part-time job.

    And I have a terrible aversion to additional work.

    One can definitely set up an "arrangement" to help defray the cost of their hobby - but some work and time will accompany it - along with some stress and annoyance.

    If anyone does this...

    I would like to hear how it goes and I wish them the best.

    mike

    Mike


  • << <i>What's your method jmbkb4? I had thought about buying complete sets raw and trying to resell. Since the $$ amount comes out more if you sell them as singles it looks like that may be the best route for a little profit. Is that the best idea or is buying raw and then getting them graded the only and best way to do it? I've had a hard time doing that since you basically get mostly 1/2 SMR for 60s HOFers in 7s or 8s or at least that's my experience with the exception of certain issues such as 62 and 71 Topps baseball. It's just so hard to find good raw stuff these days, at least in 50s-70s stuff. I think I'm putting a want ad in the paper next week to see how that works. >>


    In short, I've been extremely fortunate to have been given the opportunity to buy numerous 1993 Refractors at insanely low prices, have them grade insanely high, and be able to sell them to members of the registry/elsewhere who are willing to pay 'really' good prices for the cards.
  • sagardsagard Posts: 1,901 ✭✭✭
    Deep knowledge of the issues you are collecting/buying/selling is the key. You should know the issue better than SMR if possible. You also have to be willing to part with some cherries that you'd often really like to keep.
  • I've had a heck of a time maintaining a collection in the past due to tuition bills and a couple short periods of unemployment were I ended up selling a lot of cards to pay the bills. I did a lot of buying and selling during those times to the point where it was a part time job. I made money to pay some bills but never enough to cover all of life's expenses. Over the last six months I've managed to start accumulting a collection again with most of the funds comming from either flipping raw or slabbing. Last month I managed to sell enough slabs to pay the six month car insurance premium. I think I've got the slab and flip game figured out but lack the capital to really get it to take off. To get the most bang for your buck you need bulk hi-grade subs which requires money for the cards and money for the slabs. You need to become an expert in certain issues. If you are too broad in scope you will have a difficult time finding the creme of the crop. There are a few cards I always search for on eBay and there are certain sets I complely avoid. Cards I buy for potential grading are usually cards that will sell good raw if the card doen't meet my grading criteria. In fact I have resold many with profitable results. Thus far I've dealt almost exclusively with newer cards but have recently dabbled with some of the older Topps cards since I'm building the entire line of Topps Minnesota Twins team sets. I'm a little picky about condition and only buy the cards that look solid in scans which has resulted in some beauties arriving in my mailbox. While many of you talk about upgrading I might actually consider downgrading if I can accumulate enough of these to make a sub worthwhile. The slabbing game should be good for many years to come but I expect that market to cool down slowly but surely as more material hits the market.

    I've also made some money buying cards of a player just as the player is getting hot. If you get in early enough you can make some monster profit. Since I lack the funds to buy in bulk I havn't made a ton doing this. If I had a spare grand or two I would have been all over Cowboy's QB Romo like feas on cow dung several weeks ago and wouldn't need to worry about the downpayment on a house this summer. When I get board I'll browse eBay for certain players and scoop up the occaisional bargain for flipping later. The new hot trend is to nail those underpriced BINs. Of course, don't forget to browse the local and regional card shows where bargains always seem to show up in one form or another. I recently purchased a perfectly centered 1985 Topps Clemens rookie that I'm certain will grade a 9 or better for a whopping $12. Even with a 9 I should easily triple my initial investment. I've got a few other untested ideas that I'll play with in the comming months. I'm a relatively small fish that realizes the bigger fish have more money to play with. Hopefully when I'm completely caught up with everything I can step it up a notch.

    To summarize: You can sustain your card hobby or even profit from it. This takes both focus and time. The more focus you have, the less time you'll need.
    "One you start thinking you're the best then you might as well quit because you wont get any better" - Dale Earnhardt
  • larryallen73larryallen73 Posts: 6,067 ✭✭✭
    I am not a tax expert or business formation expert but some random thoughts in response to above:
    - If you are in a state like California (like Digicat is) think twice before you form a business entity (like LLC) as it will cost you a MINIMUM of $1,000 a year. I advise a lot of clients to go the sole prop route for business formation. Especially when then there is no liability risk to their business. Tax deductions work the same for entity or sole prop.
    - Tax ID numbers are easy to obtain on IRS website in about 5 minutes. You can get one for a business entity or for a sole prop. However, a tax ID is NOT the same as a re-sale license which is a state issued permit (not sure of cost) and thus does not cause you to avoid sales tax.
    - Hobby loss rules are the IRS rules related to the kind of business it sounds like people are mentioning in this thread. That is, they want to take the loss but what about paying tax on gains? I think you can take a loss for 2 years but then the IRS deems it is a hobby and not a business. Additionally, I think the losses can only be offset against your gains in your new "business." Probably easier to do what most people on Ebay do... be very very quiet with the tax authorities! Put another way, how many of you tell the IRS when you sell your Tony Romo rookie card for $1,100 but you only spent $5 for it?
    - To the card side of it... I find it difficult to be fully self sustaining. However, I personally try not to make it "cost" too much new money. Of course one of the easiest ways to do this is keep getting old cards graded that I already own. I personally don't have time to make it into another job.

    Good luck to all.
  • GriffinsGriffins Posts: 6,076 ✭✭✭


    << <i>However, a tax ID is NOT the same as a re-sale license which is a state issued permit (not sure of cost) and thus does not cause you to avoid sales tax. >>



    Can only answer for CA. but any business selling retail is required to have a sellers permit, and must charge and turnover sales tax to the state. This is also the same as a resale license, and is free. It takes all of 10 minutes to get. Filing a resale card (with your sellers permit number) with an instate seller exempts you from being charged sales tax from that seller, based on your intention of reselling the item.
    A tax id number is similar to a SS# in use and function, and is like this: 95-xxxxxxxx A sellers permit is typically SRASxx-xxxxxx
    If you do anything under the radar, like not charging sales tax on in state sales, or even worse, collecting sales tax and not reporting it, they will find you. And the SBofE (the sales tax board) makes the IRS seem ultra pleasant. I had a friend who was charging tax but not reporting it and they showed up with guys in windbreakers and started carrying out everything that wasn't nailed down.
    If you are calling it a business just to avoid paying taxes on your hobby, you really need to talk to a reputable CPA. A couple of hundred dollars can save you a lot of hassle.
    Bottom line- if you're going to run a business, do it professionally. It's not hard once you have a system in place. And it saves you a lot of headache.
    edited to say- I"m am not a CPA or attorney, just someone who has had a sole proprietorship business for 25 years. Anything read here should be verified by a tax professional. And I concur about the cost of a LLC. IMO unless you have partners or a huge about of potential liability exposure (that can't be covered by the insurance you should have anyway) I would stick with sole proprietor status. Just a 2 page Schedule C to file instead of a whole extra return.

    Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's

  • DeutscherGeistDeutscherGeist Posts: 2,990 ✭✭✭✭
    I know an LLC costs money. That's what many well versed people tell me, but who cares, right? It is part of the costs that you deduct from the profits so that your taxable amount is not so high. That is the goal, right?

    The vision I have is that I would need to rent a storage space, get a resale permit, Tax ID, maybe a small pickup truck (oh wait, business vehicles have to weigh 6000lbs in order for it to be written off), etc. An LLC would be added to the expenses and also getting the cards from Topps Chewing Gum Company. I can make thousands selling the stuff on ebay. With all those expenses, I may be just above red. This is fine because of all the perks that come with this business namely having my own personal collection beefed up and paid for. Also, some storage space and maybe even a pick up truck.....stuff I need anyway but its nice to write off everything.

    As it is now, my income is so low and itemization does not make sense at this point, so I cannot write off ANYTHING even though I do buy stuff for the sole reason of my employment. I am a teacher so I buy books and videos out of my own pocket just to make the lessons interesting for my students. I cannot write off any of it bcause then I would have to have over $5000 in tax deductable write offs to lump them into. My income is not so high where I can be spending and donating to charity all that much even though I want to be able to donate to the Chris Reeve Foundation big time.
    "So many of our DREAMS at first seem impossible, then they seem improbable, and then, when we SUMMON THE WILL they soon become INEVITABLE "- Christopher Reeve

    BST: Tennessebanker, Downtown1974, LarkinCollector, nendee
  • Ironic, You need money to make money.


  • << <i>
    The vision I have is that I would need to rent a storage space, get a resale permit, Tax ID, maybe a small pickup truck (oh wait, business vehicles have to weigh 6000lbs in order for it to be written off), etc. An LLC would be added to the expenses and also getting the cards from Topps Chewing Gum Company. I can make thousands selling the stuff on ebay. With all those expenses, I may be just above red. This is fine because of all the perks that come with this business namely having my own personal collection beefed up and paid for. Also, some storage space and maybe even a pick up truck.....stuff I need anyway but its nice to write off everything.
    >>




    I live in California, own a general partnership (based in CA) and an LLC -- filed in North Carolina. Depending on the state the LLC does not cost $1000. Completely agree with Griffins --- you'll want a reputable CPA and probably an attorney to help set up the business. All that said, I agree with this above quote --- and that was sort of my original idea. IF you take the time to set up the business right (whether you go LLC or dba route), you can essentially "beef up" your collection "within" your business. Your business can still make a profit, but it's marginal really. In essence, you only operate the business to enjoy your hobby at a higher level --- not to use it to replace your other job.

    That's my thought.

    -Tom
    - Building these sets:
    ------- 1960 Topps Baseball PSA 8+
    ------- 1985 Topps Hockey PSA 9+
  • GriffinsGriffins Posts: 6,076 ✭✭✭
    Deutscher-
    Please, consult someone before going down this path. My sister thought in a similar vein, and did it for 3 years. And then the IRS explained to her their thoughts, and it cost here the equivalent of a years gross salary. You may be fine, but wouldnt you sleep better knowing that for sure?
    I've got a great accountant very near you, and he's not expensive. PM me if you need the number, but in any case please consider talking to someone.

    Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's

  • Is anyone else thoroughly entertained by folks who have "sure-fire" ways to make money in the sportscard business?

    LOL. I love it.

    Arthur
  • Arthur,

    I don't think anyone here said anything about a "sure-fire" way to make money.

    .... I'm an entrepreneur ... and I seem to only be able to look at things as "opportunities" ---- I think what I've been describing is a way to "pay less" for your hobby ....but buy "paying less" there's little doubt that you'll be "paying more" of your time. Time being money --- I doubt I'll end up doing any of what has been discussed.

    -t
    - Building these sets:
    ------- 1960 Topps Baseball PSA 8+
    ------- 1985 Topps Hockey PSA 9+
  • My wife and I are both fortunate to have great jobs but we have a great deal in our home. I am essentially free to buy anything sports related as long as I am staying away from the money in the bank account. I'm not talking about an occasional pack of cards at the store, more along the lines of high end cards. I buy and sell using the stuff I have collected for years and have learned to consolidate. I take the time to sell the cards and accumulate the money in a seperate account. When I see something I want, I buy it with that money and my wife doesn't worry that I'm either spending her check or spending the savings account. It might seem difficult, but I've had what I would call the greatest collecting year of my life without spending the money in the bank.
  • DeutscherGeistDeutscherGeist Posts: 2,990 ✭✭✭✭
    Griffins,

    I entirely agree with you. I would not go forward unless I talked to experts first. I am sure that I have some things not quite right and there must be good ideas that I have not thought about that a tax advisor can surely show me the path.
    "So many of our DREAMS at first seem impossible, then they seem improbable, and then, when we SUMMON THE WILL they soon become INEVITABLE "- Christopher Reeve

    BST: Tennessebanker, Downtown1974, LarkinCollector, nendee
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    Andre,

    I'm not sure but at one time Topps would only sell wholesale to those that had a storefront.

    Steve
    Good for you.
  • I am a tax attorney. I agree that you need to consult with a corporate attorney and/or accountant before you start your business venture. In addition, you need to create a detailed business plan before laying out the cash. For example, in order to buy from Topps you need a store front (not a storage unit). In addition, you cannot cherry pick the product. You need to but the crap in order to get the good. The failure of a detailed business plan will result in a failed business. After you formulate the plan, run it by the tax experts to see how you need to revise it. Spending a little money up front in setting up the business will save you thousands cleaning it up.

    Another question you need to ask yourself is why do you want to use a LLC. Will you be the only owner? What is the asset protection benefits of a single member LLC in CA? If you form the LLC in another state, will you need to register the LLC in CA as a foreign business. Do you plan on leaving assets titled in the name of LLC? What will be your Federal tax election?

    David
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    packman is correct, in order to get the good I also had to buy the bad. not sure exactly how much one has to, as i have not bought directly from Topps/Donruss/Fleer/Upperdeck etc for 15 years. Your best bet would to become friendly with a candy wholesaler, they have the clout to buy from topps direct and you can get product wholesale from them. (they get it sub wholesale) you will need a tax id number though.

    You may want to speak to kuhlman, he had an inside tract to topps recently and could possibly shed some light on this.


    Steve
    Good for you.
  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>Has anyone here (who's not a full time card dealer) managed to get you collection to the point where it kind of pays for itself, through the "buy raw, sell graded" route or through buying sets and selling off everything, etc)?

    It seems to me like this would be possible w/o turning the hobby into a job. >>


    Definitely. I pay for all the cards I want and have been fortunate enough to be able to set a substantial amount aside. >>




    I don't doubt this. Shady auctions notwithstanding, I would think that if you've committed yourself to buying PSA 9 '93 Refractors, then simply cracking them and resubmitting them, then you've likely done quite well for yourself. If someone was looking for a set that they could eventually complete without spending much money simply by taking advantage of third party grading inefficiencies I think this is the one I would direct them to.

    Along the same lines, I think a guy could probably turn a decent profit simply by buying and cracking high end PSA/BGS 9's of modern RC's (I'm thinking here of the $300 and up post-2000 RC's, the ones with autos, jersey swatches and so on) and resubmitting those as well.
  • lostdart58lostdart58 Posts: 2,938 ✭✭✭


    << <i>The grading fees would add to the basis of the inventory, would not be an expense.

    Peace

    Doug >>



    Nah.....I am an accountant.....you could expense it, IF you so desired. In other words you could go both ways here.
    Collector of:Baseball
    1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better

    Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
    Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
    Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete


  • DeutscherGeistDeutscherGeist Posts: 2,990 ✭✭✭✭
    Expense:

    PSA grading
    archival materials from UltraPro
    storage space
    shrink wrap machine
    small pick up truck like a Toyota Tacoma?? Perhaps mileage from your own vehicle I suppose
    Maestro Auction win (keep 5% of the stuff for yourself and rest will be sold on ebay)
    Purchases off ebay, especially large lot and cases
    Packaging supplies
    postage
    Storage Shelves (Ikea here I come)
    Topps merchandise (if they will even sell to a non-brick and mortar entity).
    The occasional lunch business meetings
    Baseball card show fees
    "So many of our DREAMS at first seem impossible, then they seem improbable, and then, when we SUMMON THE WILL they soon become INEVITABLE "- Christopher Reeve

    BST: Tennessebanker, Downtown1974, LarkinCollector, nendee


  • << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>Has anyone here (who's not a full time card dealer) managed to get you collection to the point where it kind of pays for itself, through the "buy raw, sell graded" route or through buying sets and selling off everything, etc)?

    It seems to me like this would be possible w/o turning the hobby into a job. >>


    Definitely. I pay for all the cards I want and have been fortunate enough to be able to set a substantial amount aside. >>




    I don't doubt this. Shady auctions notwithstanding, I would think that if you've committed yourself to buying PSA 9 '93 Refractors, then simply cracking them and resubmitting them, then you've likely done quite well for yourself. If someone was looking for a set that they could eventually complete without spending much money simply by taking advantage of third party grading inefficiencies I think this is the one I would direct them to.

    Along the same lines, I think a guy could probably turn a decent profit simply by buying and cracking high end PSA/BGS 9's of modern RC's (I'm thinking here of the $300 and up post-2000 RC's, the ones with autos, jersey swatches and so on) and resubmitting those as well. >>



    Oh, so you're still jealously whining about my "shady auctions?"

    Did you know that fight-fraud's "trimmed" Willie Greene was graded PSA 9?

    And fight-fraud took more than $100 from eBay?

    Before you make an ass out of yourself, you should check your facts.

    And if you knew, bottom line, what I've made on 1993 Refractors in the past year, you'd probably be even nastier to me. image

  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭
  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>Has anyone here (who's not a full time card dealer) managed to get you collection to the point where it kind of pays for itself, through the "buy raw, sell graded" route or through buying sets and selling off everything, etc)?

    It seems to me like this would be possible w/o turning the hobby into a job. >>


    Definitely. I pay for all the cards I want and have been fortunate enough to be able to set a substantial amount aside. >>




    I don't doubt this. Shady auctions notwithstanding, I would think that if you've committed yourself to buying PSA 9 '93 Refractors, then simply cracking them and resubmitting them, then you've likely done quite well for yourself. If someone was looking for a set that they could eventually complete without spending much money simply by taking advantage of third party grading inefficiencies I think this is the one I would direct them to.

    Along the same lines, I think a guy could probably turn a decent profit simply by buying and cracking high end PSA/BGS 9's of modern RC's (I'm thinking here of the $300 and up post-2000 RC's, the ones with autos, jersey swatches and so on) and resubmitting those as well. >>



    Oh, so you're still jealously whining about my "shady auctions?"

    Did you know that fight-fraud's "trimmed" Willie Greene was graded PSA 9?

    And fight-fraud took more than $100 from eBay?

    Before you make an ass out of yourself, you should check your facts.

    And if you knew, bottom line, what I've made on 1993 Refractors in the past year, you'd probably be even nastier to me. image >>





    Did fight fraud ever give you that card back? Because if he didn't then that is seriously bush league.

    Also, it wouldn't hurt YOU to do a cursory fact check. I've never been 'nasty' to you-- all I did was point out the obvious. Put it this way; if you bought a 1962 Mantle off Ebay that was advertised as 'Mint' and 'Perfect in Every Way'-- phrases that you used in the Greene auction, might I remind you--would you feel like you were deceived if the card you received in the mail was 1/16" short? I would. And I bet you would too, as would everyone else here. So, insofar as 'deceitful' relates to 'shady', it's time for you to step up and take your medicine. I'm sure that the idea of reaping what you sow is just utter anathema to a little punk like you, but hey-- at some point we all need to ascend to adulthood, even if that means being shamed into doing so by strangers on the Internet.

    And the second thing I pointed out was that I never believed for one instant that the reason you didn't grade the Greene was because, as you put it, 'you're poor, and PSA grading fees are expensive', but I would hope that even you would lose all respect for someone if they bought that line of crap. Which brings me to another piece of sage counsel which I'm going to offer you free of charge- If you can't think up a good excuse, then just don't offer one at all.

    I don't care what sort of post-production enhancements you apply to your '93 refractors, and to be honest I don't really care. If you can buzz 'em through the old rotatrimmer and still get them slabbed then more power to you. I wouldn't hold that kind of behavior against you for a minute-- and I'm not being facecious when I say that. But when you misrepresent a card in an auction then you should offer the buyer a refund if they catch you on it. That was my only point at the time, and that's my only point now. Whatever happened later-- whether fight fraud screwed Ebay for a C-Note, or called your employer, or tried to get the Today show to do an expose on your sketchy selling habits-- doesn't relate in any way to the central point I tried to convey in the earlier thread on this topic. >>



    Oh-- and before I forget-- you may just be proud as punch at having netted 15 grand or whatever by brokering in refractors, and that's great. I'm glad you're pleased with yourself. But you should reconcile yourself to the fact that a) nobody here really cares if you've made any money or not with these cards, least of all me, and b) any feelings I have about your business practices are not informed by any jealousy I feel towards your profit margin. Any monkey can make money in the crack and submit game if they just apply a little time and energy to the project. The fact that you've done this is fine, but you're a fool if you think the success of this little endeavor of yours is a reflection of some kind of rare business acumen that only you are lucky enough to possess.
  • First, I highly recommend a fistful of high interest credit cards (Chase has a great 22% APR card, of which I am very proud carrier) to purchase inventory, cover grading costs (PSA, of course), and any other "hobby" expenses incurred.

    Next, hopefully your "beauties" will land in the lap of some grader whose dog was just flattened on the interstate, or struck by some other major, life-altering dilemma. (See the ever-popular G.O.D. thread, and, of course, PSA's subjectivity disclaimer).

    Finally, take your mid-1980s' PSA 7s and 8s, list on eBay for $.99 and let 'er rip!

    I've found this cutting-edge business model to be very lucrative!

    Lawyers, shmoyers.

    Accountants? Who needs 'em!









  • << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>Has anyone here (who's not a full time card dealer) managed to get you collection to the point where it kind of pays for itself, through the "buy raw, sell graded" route or through buying sets and selling off everything, etc)?

    It seems to me like this would be possible w/o turning the hobby into a job. >>


    Definitely. I pay for all the cards I want and have been fortunate enough to be able to set a substantial amount aside. >>




    I don't doubt this. Shady auctions notwithstanding, I would think that if you've committed yourself to buying PSA 9 '93 Refractors, then simply cracking them and resubmitting them, then you've likely done quite well for yourself. If someone was looking for a set that they could eventually complete without spending much money simply by taking advantage of third party grading inefficiencies I think this is the one I would direct them to.

    Along the same lines, I think a guy could probably turn a decent profit simply by buying and cracking high end PSA/BGS 9's of modern RC's (I'm thinking here of the $300 and up post-2000 RC's, the ones with autos, jersey swatches and so on) and resubmitting those as well. >>



    Oh, so you're still jealously whining about my "shady auctions?"

    Did you know that fight-fraud's "trimmed" Willie Greene was graded PSA 9?

    And fight-fraud took more than $100 from eBay?

    Before you make an ass out of yourself, you should check your facts.

    And if you knew, bottom line, what I've made on 1993 Refractors in the past year, you'd probably be even nastier to me. image >>





    Did fight fraud ever give you that card back? Because if he didn't then that is seriously bush league.

    Also, it wouldn't hurt YOU to do a cursory fact check. I've never been 'nasty' to you-- all I did was point out the obvious. Put it this way; if you bought a 1962 Mantle off Ebay that was advertised as 'Mint' and 'Perfect in Every Way'-- phrases that you used in the Greene auction, might I remind you--would you feel like you were deceived if the card you received in the mail was 1/16" short? I would. And I bet you would too, as would everyone else here. So, insofar as 'deceitful' relates to 'shady', it's time for you to step up and take your medicine. I'm sure that the idea of reaping what you sow is just utter anathema to a little punk like you, but hey-- at some point we all need to ascend to adulthood, even if that means being shamed into doing so by strangers on the Internet.

    And the second thing I pointed out was that I never believed for one instant that the reason you didn't grade the Greene was because, as you put it, 'you're poor, and PSA grading fees are expensive', but I would hope that even you would lose all respect for someone if they bought that line of crap. Which brings me to another piece of sage counsel which I'm going to offer you free of charge- If you can't think up a good excuse, then just don't offer one at all.

    I don't care what sort of post-production enhancements you apply to your '93 refractors, and to be honest I don't really care. If you can buzz 'em through the old rotatrimmer and still get them slabbed then more power to you. I wouldn't hold that kind of behavior against you for a minute-- and I'm not being facecious when I say that. But when you misrepresent a card in an auction then you should offer the buyer a refund if they catch you on it. That was my only point at the time, and that's my only point now. Whatever happened later-- whether fight fraud screwed Ebay for a C-Note, or called your employer, or tried to get the Today show to do an expose on your sketchy selling habits-- doesn't relate in any way to the central point I tried to convey in the earlier thread on this topic.
    >>



    Oh-- and before I forget-- you may just be proud as punch at having netted 15 grand or whatever by brokering in refractors, and that's great. I'm glad you're pleased with yourself. But you should reconcile yourself to the fact that a) nobody here really cares if you've made any money or not with these cards, least of all me, and b) any feelings I have about your business practices are not informed by any jealousy I feel towards your profit margin. Any monkey can make money in the crack and submit game if they just apply a little time and energy to the project. The fact that you've done this is fine, but you're a fool if you think the success of this little endeavor of yours is a reflection of some kind of rare business acumen that only you are lucky enough to possess. >>


    Dude.......See why I thought you were a woman? image

    All kidding aside, I still don't understand why a situation that never involved you in ANY way still evoked & evokes such emotion in you. This is why I, in good faith, have no other recourse but to believe that you are jealous. Reread your post -- do you feel the emotion, the rage, in your words? You are the one who passive-aggressively inserted yourself into this thread on my behalf. Again, I have no clue why you feel the need to do so. Because PSA graded the Willie Greene, I feel that I need to defend this card no more. That is the point in utilizing independent/third party grading. I was never worried.

    In any case, if you want to think that I've only made $15,000 net in these 1993 Refractors, that is your perogative. image

    At this point I also must concede that you attack me not out of jealousy but because of your life, which must be a sad, bitter, angry place.

    I am not mad at you; I am sorry if I projected that. In the end, I guess I pity you.



  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭


    << <i>First, I highly recommend a fistful of high interest credit cards (Chase has a great 22% APR card, of which I am very proud carrier) to purchase inventory, cover grading costs (PSA, of course), and any other "hobby" expenses incurred.

    Next, hopefully your "beauties" will land in the lap of some grader whose dog was just flattened on the interstate, or struck by some other major, life-altering dilemma. (See the ever-popular G.O.D. thread, and, of course, PSA's subjectivity disclaimer).

    Finally, take your mid-1980s' PSA 7s and 8s, list on eBay for $.99 and let 'er rip!

    I've found this cutting-edge business model to be very lucrative!

    Lawyers, shmoyers.

    Accountants? Who needs 'em! >>



    And now, ladies and gentlemen, you can understand why NJM is my favorite poster on these boards. Preach it from the pulpit, brother!

    Let's not forget here that it's also imperative that you understand that you could actually do quite well for yourself by just buying cards like the 2001 Bowman Chrome Pujols in PSA /BGS 9 holders, then sending them back again and again until you finally get the 10, at which point you clear a cool 4 grand for your trouble. This business model, while almost surely lucrative, has two fatal flaws: First, it doesn't allow you 'crack boxes from your youth', and second, it does not give you the opportunity to find your study/den/computer room awash in $3 slabs six months after you kick your financial plan for world dominance into high gear.

  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>Has anyone here (who's not a full time card dealer) managed to get you collection to the point where it kind of pays for itself, through the "buy raw, sell graded" route or through buying sets and selling off everything, etc)?

    It seems to me like this would be possible w/o turning the hobby into a job. >>


    Definitely. I pay for all the cards I want and have been fortunate enough to be able to set a substantial amount aside. >>




    I don't doubt this. Shady auctions notwithstanding, I would think that if you've committed yourself to buying PSA 9 '93 Refractors, then simply cracking them and resubmitting them, then you've likely done quite well for yourself. If someone was looking for a set that they could eventually complete without spending much money simply by taking advantage of third party grading inefficiencies I think this is the one I would direct them to.

    Along the same lines, I think a guy could probably turn a decent profit simply by buying and cracking high end PSA/BGS 9's of modern RC's (I'm thinking here of the $300 and up post-2000 RC's, the ones with autos, jersey swatches and so on) and resubmitting those as well. >>



    Oh, so you're still jealously whining about my "shady auctions?"

    Did you know that fight-fraud's "trimmed" Willie Greene was graded PSA 9?

    And fight-fraud took more than $100 from eBay?

    Before you make an ass out of yourself, you should check your facts.

    And if you knew, bottom line, what I've made on 1993 Refractors in the past year, you'd probably be even nastier to me. image >>





    Did fight fraud ever give you that card back? Because if he didn't then that is seriously bush league.

    Also, it wouldn't hurt YOU to do a cursory fact check. I've never been 'nasty' to you-- all I did was point out the obvious. Put it this way; if you bought a 1962 Mantle off Ebay that was advertised as 'Mint' and 'Perfect in Every Way'-- phrases that you used in the Greene auction, might I remind you--would you feel like you were deceived if the card you received in the mail was 1/16" short? I would. And I bet you would too, as would everyone else here. So, insofar as 'deceitful' relates to 'shady', it's time for you to step up and take your medicine. I'm sure that the idea of reaping what you sow is just utter anathema to a little punk like you, but hey-- at some point we all need to ascend to adulthood, even if that means being shamed into doing so by strangers on the Internet.

    And the second thing I pointed out was that I never believed for one instant that the reason you didn't grade the Greene was because, as you put it, 'you're poor, and PSA grading fees are expensive', but I would hope that even you would lose all respect for someone if they bought that line of crap. Which brings me to another piece of sage counsel which I'm going to offer you free of charge- If you can't think up a good excuse, then just don't offer one at all.

    I don't care what sort of post-production enhancements you apply to your '93 refractors, and to be honest I don't really care. If you can buzz 'em through the old rotatrimmer and still get them slabbed then more power to you. I wouldn't hold that kind of behavior against you for a minute-- and I'm not being facecious when I say that. But when you misrepresent a card in an auction then you should offer the buyer a refund if they catch you on it. That was my only point at the time, and that's my only point now. Whatever happened later-- whether fight fraud screwed Ebay for a C-Note, or called your employer, or tried to get the Today show to do an expose on your sketchy selling habits-- doesn't relate in any way to the central point I tried to convey in the earlier thread on this topic. >>



    Oh-- and before I forget-- you may just be proud as punch at having netted 15 grand or whatever by brokering in refractors, and that's great. I'm glad you're pleased with yourself. But you should reconcile yourself to the fact that a) nobody here really cares if you've made any money or not with these cards, least of all me, and b) any feelings I have about your business practices are not informed by any jealousy I feel towards your profit margin. Any monkey can make money in the crack and submit game if they just apply a little time and energy to the project. The fact that you've done this is fine, but you're a fool if you think the success of this little endeavor of yours is a reflection of some kind of rare business acumen that only you are lucky enough to possess. >>


    Dude.......See why I thought you were a woman? image

    All kidding aside, I still don't understand why a situation that never involved you in ANY way still evoked & evokes such emotion in you. This is why I, in good faith, have no other recourse but to believe that you are jealous. Reread your post -- do you feel the emotion, the rage, in your words? You are the one who passive-aggressively inserted yourself into this thread on my behalf. Again, I have no clue why you feel the need to do so. Because PSA graded the Willie Greene, I feel that I need to defend this card no more. That is the point in utilizing independent/third party grading. I was never worried.

    In any case, if you want to think that I've only made $15,000 net in these 1993 Refractors, that is your perogative. image

    At this point I also must concede that you attack me not out of jealousy but because of your life, which must be a sad, bitter, angry place.

    I am not mad at you; I am sorry if I projected that. In the end, I guess I pity you. >>



    I have no idea how much you've made screwing around with refractors, and as I've said before it is of no interest to me. You made $50K? 100K? Good for you.

    I find the fact that you assumed- and, indeed, continue to assume-- a stance of righteous indignation after having been outed for running a questionable auction to be irritating, and that vein of irritation runs through my responses to you. If you just can't see what all the hoopla is about then what can I say, other then I thank Christ that you aren't my doctor.

    And thanks for opening your resevoir of pity the unlearned and unwashed amongst us. Who needs shelter on a cold night when I have your sympathies to warm me?

    Lastly, I wish you the best of luck going forward on your 1993 refractor dealings. This may seem hard to believe, but I actually do mean that.

  • DeutscherGeistDeutscherGeist Posts: 2,990 ✭✭✭✭
    Making a lot of money with 1993 Refractors..lots of money, ehh?.....OK

    not having enough money to submit the Willie Greene card because short on money .....OK


    It all adds up to BS and this why not only Boopotts but so many others here are enormously irritated for having our intelligence insulted in such a nonsensical way. This is just pointing out the obvious.
    _________________________________________


    Now back to a business discussion. People use to buy AGS graded cards and cracked those out and submitted them to PSA so they will sell higher. AGS has very good standards of grading but is not so well known. I try and search for those cards on ebay whenever I can because its the cheapest way to get the cards I want in perfect condition. Raw cards cannot be trusted---lets be realistic.

    I don't see many AGS cards on ebay anymore, so I think that lucrative business has dried out.
    "So many of our DREAMS at first seem impossible, then they seem improbable, and then, when we SUMMON THE WILL they soon become INEVITABLE "- Christopher Reeve

    BST: Tennessebanker, Downtown1974, LarkinCollector, nendee


  • << <i>not having enough money to submit the Willie Greene card because short on money .....OK >>



    fa·ce·tious /fəˈsiʃəs/ Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[fuh-see-shuhs] -
    –adjective
    1. not meant to be taken seriously or literally: a facetious remark.
    2. amusing; humorous.
    3. lacking serious intent; concerned with something nonessential, amusing, or frivolous: a facetious person.

  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>not having enough money to submit the Willie Greene card because short on money .....OK >>



    fa·ce·tious /fəˈsiʃəs/ Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[fuh-see-shuhs] -
    –adjective
    1. not meant to be taken seriously or literally: a facetious remark.
    2. amusing; humorous.
    3. lacking serious intent; concerned with something nonessential, amusing, or frivolous: a facetious person. >>




    Let the record show that I don't, for one minute, believe you were making a subtle stab at humor when you offered up that reason for not grading the card.

    But I am happy to humor you, and so I'll ask it again (is this the fourth time? I've lost count). If the Greene was 'perfect in every way', and 'mint', then why didn't you submit it yourself?
  • SDavidSDavid Posts: 1,584 ✭✭
    First, I highly recommend a fistful of high interest credit cards (Chase has a great 22% APR card, of which I am very proud carrier) to purchase inventory, cover grading costs (PSA, of course), and any other "hobby" expenses incurred.

    Next, hopefully your "beauties" will land in the lap of some grader whose dog was just flattened on the interstate, or struck by some other major, life-altering dilemma. (See the ever-popular G.O.D. thread, and, of course, PSA's subjectivity disclaimer).

    Finally, take your mid-1980s' PSA 7s and 8s, list on eBay for $.99 and let 'er rip!

    I've found this cutting-edge business model to be very lucrative!

    Lawyers, shmoyers.

    Accountants? Who needs 'em!





    Hey Meathook -

    Is this your user id?
  • julen23julen23 Posts: 4,558 ✭✭
    we are all gluttons for punishment in 1 way or another...

    julen
    image
    RIP GURU
  • First, I am not sure why you would want to become a "business". Tax reasons? My guess is 99.9% of the people fail to report hobby related income from eBay sales. Do you currently pay taxes on the profits from your sales?

    Over the long run, opening new product will not generate profits....even if you are direct. I think the best way to reduce your hobby costs (not make money) is to buy and flip.....or buy, grade and flip modern cards on eBay. At any given time, I bid on 300+ auctions hoping for a steal. Good customer service on eBay is not an everyday occurrence which makes easy to win over people with quality cards and quick shipping. I have a very, very small "customer base" that will buy cards without having to list them on eBay.

    Am I going to be rich, no. However, I do pocket $200ish a month to spend on more cards!
    My collection is under construction at 27outs.net


  • << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>not having enough money to submit the Willie Greene card because short on money .....OK >>



    fa·ce·tious /fəˈsiʃəs/ Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[fuh-see-shuhs] -
    –adjective
    1. not meant to be taken seriously or literally: a facetious remark.
    2. amusing; humorous.
    3. lacking serious intent; concerned with something nonessential, amusing, or frivolous: a facetious person. >>




    Let the record show that I don't, for one minute, believe you were making a subtle stab at humor when you offered up that reason for not grading the card.

    But I am happy to humor you, and so I'll ask it again (is this the fourth time? I've lost count). If the Greene was 'perfect in every way', and 'mint', then why didn't you submit it yourself? >>


    PSA 9s were selling for $150 on eBay. I had 3 PSA 10s and 6 PSA 9s at that time, all from my personal submissions.

    The card was/is being hoarded in RAW condition by a particular eBay user that was bidding $130 or so on the card. It wasn't worth my time or effort to have them graded, as it costs around $11/card for me with shipping both ways. So I set my reserve for $129, made $110/card after eBay fees, and called it a day. To avoid eBay fees, I sold the remaining copies off eBay for a substantial amount. If this is confusing, please ask the question again, and I will do my best to elucidate.

    Thanks for asking. As always, I appreciate your interest/concern. image
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