Unopened Packs
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If you had a unopened cello or rack pack and the top card was a very well centered (only an example) Rickey Henderson Rookie that might grade a 9 or possibly a 10 on a good day with a grader who just got some from his wife on his birthday during a full moon of a leap year and one baby zebra (Daffy Duck reference
) Would you grade the pack or rip it and grade the card?
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Comments
I am a non-ripper...................a pack COLLECTOR as oppossed to a pack ripper.
At one point I might get some of my vast pack collection graded.
1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better
Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete
That being said, I would inspect that Henderson until my spleen bled. Loupe, binoculars, telescope, the Force ... everything I had at my disposal. If I still couldn't find ANY imperfections than I would scan the rack and measure the centering with pixels. If you still feel it's a legit 10 shot then I would rip.
Unopened material is one of the few things that more than likely won't lose its value. They're not making any more of it and the supply can only go down. That being said, unopened material with a star/HOFer/RC showing seems to have a ceiling on it that won't meet the ceiling of a PSA 10 graded example of the same card.
If you feel it's got a legit shot at a 10 I'd rip. Anything less than a legit shot and I'd wait. It's a nice item and you can always change your mind later on.
Actually, and more importantly, which is it -- a cello or a rack? I wouldn't chance opening a cello, everything I wrote above was assuming it's a rack.
Either way, nice find!
Arthur
Also to answer another question, I don't think anyone grades racks so I guess it would have to be a cello.
Buying racks is a good idea because all you can do with them is rip!
<< <i>Sorry, if I led you to believe that I have this pack. I was just using it as an example. I do have many packs with great cards on the front and just wanted to get everyone's opinion on what I should do with them...in general.
Also to answer another question, I don't think anyone grades racks so I guess it would have to be a cello.
Buying racks is a good idea because all you can do with them is rip! >>
Racks can indeed be graded.....
1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better
Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete
<< <i>Racks can indeed be graded..... >>
Thanks for raining on my parade
1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better
Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete
1975 Topps wax tray; literally worth its weight in gold
D's: 50P,49S,45D+S,43D,41S,40D,39D+S,38D+S,37D+S,36S,35D+S,all 16-34's
Q's: 52S,47S,46S,40S,39S,38S,37D+S,36D+S,35D,34D,32D+S
74T: 241,435,610,654 97 Finest silver: 115,135,139,145,310
73T:31,55,61,62,63,64,65,66,67,68,80,152,165,189,213,235,237,257,341,344,377,379,390,422,433,453,480,497,545,554,563,580,606,613,630
95 Ultra GM Sets: Golden Prospects,HR Kings,On-Base Leaders,Power Plus,RBI Kings,Rising Stars
that is an awesome Tom Hume!
<< <i>lostdart,
that is an awesome Tom Hume! >>
Bob Bonner Rookie card......
1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better
Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete
<< <i>How is that rack only graded a 7? The Ripken card looks to be centered very well. >>
I dont think GAI takes into acct. the condition of the cards inside. I have a rare FF version on a rack with the price tag and some color loss and it got a 9 !! Dont get me wrong I'm not complaining, just confused.
<< <i>The only aspect of pack grading that has any worth is authenticating the seal integrity. If you are a card collector first then set the card free as it was intended >>
Well said!!
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<< <i>ripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripitripit >>
what are you trying to say?
D's: 50P,49S,45D+S,43D,41S,40D,39D+S,38D+S,37D+S,36S,35D+S,all 16-34's
Q's: 52S,47S,46S,40S,39S,38S,37D+S,36D+S,35D,34D,32D+S
74T: 241,435,610,654 97 Finest silver: 115,135,139,145,310
73T:31,55,61,62,63,64,65,66,67,68,80,152,165,189,213,235,237,257,341,344,377,379,390,422,433,453,480,497,545,554,563,580,606,613,630
95 Ultra GM Sets: Golden Prospects,HR Kings,On-Base Leaders,Power Plus,RBI Kings,Rising Stars
<< <i>The only aspect of pack grading that has any worth is authenticating the seal integrity. >>
Beezer, I see where you're coming from but I respectfully disagree. Packs, much like cards, are collected for their individual characteristics. While I don't collect unopened material I would have to imagine that there are some out there who would much rather have a pristine copy of a particular pack as opposed to one that is ripped, dinger, soiled or torn. Single cards themselves are the same way. Sure, it's nice to know that the card you have is the real deal and not some counterfeit but most collectors also want the best possible conditioned example of the card, not just a mangled authentic example of it.
There are those that don't care what grade a pack gets as long as it is authenticated just like there are those that want to make sure their T206 is authentic and untrimmed. But there are also those who want the best possible example of the card/pack.
The wrapper might not have originally been intended to be graded and encapsulated but neither were the cards.
Arthur