I can't see it being worth any more than $250. I wouldn't pay through the nose for this one. It's a tough card because of centering, but it does show up from time to time.
"My father would womanize, he would drink. He would make outrageous claims like he invented the question mark. Sometimes he would accuse chestnuts of being lazy. The sort of general malaise that only the genius possess and the insane lament. Our childhood was typical. Summers in Rangoon, luge lessons. In the spring we'd make meat helmets. When we were insolent we were placed in a burlap bag and beaten with reeds - pretty standard really."
Rarely does this card go for less than $400. I've sold two for that price privately. Some time ago a Carter/Toronto fan was buying every 10 auctioned. By my estimates he purchased around ten psa 10's.
If HE shows up I can guarantee it won't go for less than $400...................
Well, the annual Beckett says "The Joe Carter RC is almost never found well centered" and they don't say that about any other cards I know, so there has to be a reason. And since 1984 Donruss was probably the shortest print run ever, maybe you had better go for this one. I personally wouldn't spend that much on one card just for a label/number, but in your case, I'd say go for it.
The thing the scares me about paying a price like this is watching how much many other 80's issues have devalued substantially in the last 2 years. I remember when I could sell 81 Donruss Raines PSA 10's for $100 a pop no problem. Now they are $50... and one sold recently for $25. That's just an example and I realize 81 Donruss and 84 Donruss have nothing in common except the name Donruss. However, my point is the overproduction did still exist in '84 (nothing like '81 of course) and I worry about how many unopened boxes are still out there!? What's the long term value of a very good, but NOT hof, player like Joe Carter? I personally would not buy it for that price. Rather, I would sit back and wait a couple years and buy it for $150. Just my thoughts and they are a very uneducated thought so take for what they cost.
I've opened several factory sets since last year and a box of 84 Donruss and can tell you that the Carter is hard to find centered. Also "Bug" opinions are worth listening to....he's the expert for this set if you ask me .........and as Arny says trying to find this card under $400 is like trying to find the Mattingly PSA 10 cheap....I don't think it will happen
I am a bit torn whther to buy it. I can afford it; although I would not be buying it for investment, I would still want my money's worth.... jeez, my favorite set since my childhood...
<< <i>The thing the scares me about paying a price like this is watching how much many other 80's issues have devalued substantially in the last 2 years. >>
Maybe so, and perhaps the 1984 Donruss set is not worth what it used to be, but it will always be a classic (and the 1985 Donruss black beauties to a lesser extent).
very nice example of one of the toughest cards to find worthy of having graded within the 84 donruss set. you cant go wrong picking these up when they become available. however i think this looks like arny's
Yes, real odd amount to bid like that. Probably looking to see what the reserve was, though I can't say I agree with using such a method as that to find that out.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
Bidder Action / Explanation Date of Bid and Retraction munchjs( 217) Retracted: US $25,111.00 Explanation: Entered wrong amount Bid: Oct-31-06 08:16:24 PST Retracted: Oct-31-06 08:17:25 PST
Finger slip, muncher? >>
Indeed a finger slip. I meant to bid 251.11. I retracted and rebid the correct amount temporarily become the high bidder. >>
I don't buy that. You have to confirm your bid after you hit enter. Then you retracted within one minute!
I have been on eBay for 7 years and it would take me much longer than 1 minute to find where to retract my bid. Then, you bid $255.55. WTF!? If you meant to bid $251.11, why the hell would you change your tune so fast and bid a different amount?
Yep...sorry but I dont buy the slip either. Ive bid on thousands of items and didnt have anywhere near 8 retractions, nevermind 8 in 6 months.
It is fairly obvious if you sell on ebay, or are very observant, to see who the retractors are. Way too many people pulling that crap just to see what the reserve or high bid amount is.
Anytime someone has done that on my auctions I check out their retraction record ASAP. If I notice a pattern they will get blocked from my auctions forever.
"The other teams could make trouble for us if they win." -- Yogi Berra
I know there are a couple good reasons to use a reserve price including getting a feel for value/interest while protecting the investment and having the option to accept a lesser offer... but, if the item was simply listed at that price then this type of bid retraction would go extinct. I can see how this type of retraction could leave the bidder with a mild advantage since some folks are squeemish about reserve price auctions. In the end it still boils down to having the highest bid which is definately not assured simply knowing the minimum asking price.
"One you start thinking you're the best then you might as well quit because you wont get any better" - Dale Earnhardt
If I was the seller I would block you from bidding. Until the day I become disgustingly wealthy, I'll always double-check a bid when it's at $250. Low.
Bidder Action / Explanation Date of Bid and Retraction munchjs( 217) Retracted: US $25,111.00 Explanation: Entered wrong amount Bid: Oct-31-06 08:16:24 PST Retracted: Oct-31-06 08:17:25 PST
Finger slip, muncher? >>
Indeed a finger slip. I meant to bid 251.11. I retracted and rebid the correct amount temporarily become the high bidder. >>
I don't buy that. You have to confirm your bid after you hit enter. Then you retracted within one minute!
I have been on eBay for 7 years and it would take me much longer than 1 minute to find where to retract my bid. Then, you bid $255.55. WTF!? If you meant to bid $251.11, why the hell would you change your tune so fast and bid a different amount?
Uhm, yes it was. I bid in odd amounts and I type on a laptop. I hit the comma by mistake and the bid amount jumps into the thousands. I enter through everything so quick and then realize I went too fast when I see my bid confirmation emails. So I rebid at .55 instead of .11? So what? I still rebid. And I have also bought my fair share (of what I can afford) of cards on ebay all of which have positive feedback and in which I have paid promptly on my winnings.
<< <i>I know munch doesn't do basketball cards, but just in case I blocked him.
It took me 6 minutes to find the link. >>
Thanks for the block. You do not know me and I am a paying bidder on my winnings. Perhaps you have judged to wuickly on a a board member that you do not know very well? When I was a lurker here for several months when I used to chat on the non sports I have always respected your posts. However, you have judged me very fast.
<< <i>Well don't hold out on us. What was the reserve? >>
I honestly don't know. I simply retracted, rebid, and I eventually did a high bid at 355 that still didn't make the reserve. If I retracted as a game, then why would I bid into the mid 300's in the last day of the auction?
I've been on eby for 7 years or so too and I knew where to find the bid retraction long before I ever had to use it back in my Magic the Gathering days. Under any item's bid history it tells you about retracting bids. It's not hard to discover ebay features.
Few of my bids have ended in any consistant dollar amout... .23cents, .66cents ...etc I have no particular pattern. 11cents is just abother number.
I've been on eby for 7 years or so too and I knew where to find the bid retraction long before I ever had to use it back in my Magic the Gathering days. Under any item's bid history it tells you about retracting bids. It's not hard to discover ebay features.
Few of my bids have ended in any consistant dollar amout... .23cents, .66cents ...etc I have no particular pattern. 11cents is just abother number. >>
If I misjudged, I appologize. However, if you are taking advantage of the system, think about what you are doing and try to control yourself next time. Please don't take offense to that as if you really are on the level, that should not affect you in any way.
I appreciate that you liked my posts in the past and you may have even read the one where I got screwed by a finger slipping incident. I am just a little suspect of that claim because it has affected me personally in the past and I may have misjudged that incident as well, nobodys perfect.
Thank you Zef. I am aware that a bid retraction can be a loophole in the reserve system, but in this case it really was an honest mistake. That's all. May I ask what happened in one of your auctions in regards to a retraction?
I am actually a friendly person who works too many hours in the week.
I don't really use reserves on my auctions, but I am curious about something. The reserve is used to make sure you get a certain price...correct? Why don't people just list the reserve price in the auction description to avoid this? If someone wants that card for that price they know exactly what to bid to get it. Is there something I'm missing? Why are the reserve prices so mysterious?
<< <i>I don't really use reserves on my auctions, but I am curious about something. The reserve is used to make sure you get a certain price...correct? Why don't people just list the reserve price in the auction description to avoid this? If someone wants that card for that price they know exactly what to bid to get it. Is there something I'm missing? Why are the reserve prices so mysterious? >>
I agree. I may have run 10 or so auctions with a reserve in the last 2 years and I ALWAYS list what the reserve is in the description.
<< <i>I don't really use reserves on my auctions, but I am curious about something. The reserve is used to make sure you get a certain price...correct? Why don't people just list the reserve price in the auction description to avoid this? If someone wants that card for that price they know exactly what to bid to get it. Is there something I'm missing? Why are the reserve prices so mysterious? >>
Great point. I think in auction houses if there is a reserve on an item, it is always disclosed. I don't know why eBay is different.
I always thought that the reason they don't post the reserve is because they have a price in mind, but they are not sure what the market may bear. If this seller would have disclosed that his reserve was say $500.00, Munch and Arny may not have bid. Maybe no one would have and he wouldn’t have a feel for what it is worth.
It is kinda of like the "Best Offer" feature but different.
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<< <i> I agree. I may have run 10 or so auctions with a reserve in the last 2 years and I ALWAYS list what the reserve is in the description. >>
By listing your reserve price in the description, why not make it your start bid price and not have a reserve? Your listing fee is based on your start bid or reserve.
The only advantage to the seller is that buyers do not know your "take it" price and may bid it up past that price.
For the buyers, it really should not make any difference. The buyers should already have their "buy it" price. If it is below the reserve, they would not have bought/bid on the item in the first place.
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I've wondered about that myself. I just don't see the point of having a reserve price; wouldn't it be easier to just make your starting bid whatever your reserve would've been rather than waste everyone's time bidding when they know their bid might not do any good? I mean, you're not really fooling anyone by having say, a PSA 1 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle with a $1 starting bid and a secret $2,500 reserve. Why not just make the starting bid $2,500 if you're not going to settle for less than that anyway?
I've wondered about that myself. I just don't see the point of having a reserve price; wouldn't it be easier to just make your starting bid whatever your reserve would've been rather than waste everyone's time bidding when they know their bid might not do any good? I mean, you're not really fooling anyone by having say, a PSA 1 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle with a $1 starting bid and a secret $2,500 reserve. Why not just make the starting bid $2,500 if you're not going to settle for less than that anyway?
That is true to an extent, but a reserve auction that starts off at a dollar will also generate alot of bidding action, since buyers don't know what the reserve price is, and they try to outbid one another. An auction that starts off at a higher price, on the other hand, will not usually generate much bidding action. Ebay used to indicate when the reserve "was met" in an auction listing once the reserve was reached, but they don't anymore, so bidders are probably more likely to keep bidding after the reserve is met, too. In the past, I think some bidders were a little less likely to keep bidding once the auction stated that the reserve was met, thinking that the reserve somehow equated to full price.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
Hidden reserves are annoying. I bid up to $355 for that card and the smr is 250 I believe. I offered to buy the Carter after the auction for my 355 high bid and he declined it. I would've paypaled him instantly.
Hidden reserves are annoying. I bid up to $355 for that card and the smr is 250 I believe. I offered to buy the Carter after the auction for my 355 high bid and he declined it. I would've paypaled him instantly.
That scenario is exactly what the reserve auction is intended for, however. The seller was not willing to simply sell the card to the high bidder, but wanted to see where the bidding action would lead. If you (as the high bidder) did not reach the reserve with your "high" bid, then it wasn't enough for this particular seller to part with the card. SMR is simply a guide. The worth and value of a card is relative to what the buyer (or in this case, the seller) determines it to be.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
...Man, I really need to see somebody about this typing thing. I MEANT to type in,"To each, his own. Love one another." How does one retract a post on here?
Reserve auctions are just gay...did I type that out loud?
For anything under a couple hundred bucks, yes, I agree with you there, but for higher grade stuff, reserve auctions do serve a purpose. Wouldn't be surprised if that Carter card wound up being sold off ebay as a result.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
Comments
If HE shows up I can guarantee it won't go for less than $400...................
matt
1994 Pro Line Live
TheDallasCowboyBackfieldProject
* C. PASCUAL BASIC #3
* T. PEREZ BASIC #4 100%
* L. TIANT BASIC #1
* DRYSDALE BASIC #4 100%
* MAGIC MASTER #4/BASIC #3
* PALMEIRO MASTER/BASIC #1
* '65 DISNEYLAND #2
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* '78 THREE'S COMPANY #1
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I would pay up to $450 for a really nicely centered psa 10, such as this card.
Julen
RIP GURU
Dimes: 54S, 53P, 50P, 49S, 45D+S, 44S, 43D, 41S, 40D+S, 39D+S, 38D+S, 37D+S, 36S, 35D+S, all 16-34's
Quarters: 52S, 47S, 46S, 40S, 39S, 38S, 37D+S, 36D+S, 35D, 34D, 32D+S
74 Topps: 37,38,46,47,48,138,151,193,210,214,223,241,256,264,268,277,289,316,435,552,570,577,592,602,610,654,655
1997 Finest silver: 115, 135, 139, 145, 310
1995 Ultra Gold Medallion Sets: Golden Prospects, HR Kings, On-Base Leaders, Power Plus, RBI Kings, Rising Stars
this card has already risen in smr value, but is still undervalued (all things considered) IMHO.
there are '84 donruss collectors like ArnyVee & other board members that would pay a premium (justifiably so) for this particular card.
this is also a card that would NOT lose its value, rather only increase over time.
Julen
RIP GURU
I'm going to try and pick it up cheaper than $400 at some point, but it's going to be a tough task for sure.
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<< <i>
this is also a card that would NOT lose its value, rather only increase over time.
>>
This flys in the face of EVERY other tough card from the mid to late seventies to the eighties doesn't it?
Unopened 1975 material
UL Magic the Gathering
<< <i>gotta say that the 1984 donruss is one of the nicest modern sets out there for sure. >>
I agree cohocorp!
* C. PASCUAL BASIC #3
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* L. TIANT BASIC #1
* DRYSDALE BASIC #4 100%
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<< <i>The thing the scares me about paying a price like this is watching how much many other 80's issues have devalued substantially in the last 2 years. >>
Maybe so, and perhaps the 1984 Donruss set is not worth what it used to be, but it will always be a classic (and the 1985 Donruss black beauties to a lesser extent).
Dimes: 54S, 53P, 50P, 49S, 45D+S, 44S, 43D, 41S, 40D+S, 39D+S, 38D+S, 37D+S, 36S, 35D+S, all 16-34's
Quarters: 52S, 47S, 46S, 40S, 39S, 38S, 37D+S, 36D+S, 35D, 34D, 32D+S
74 Topps: 37,38,46,47,48,138,151,193,210,214,223,241,256,264,268,277,289,316,435,552,570,577,592,602,610,654,655
1997 Finest silver: 115, 135, 139, 145, 310
1995 Ultra Gold Medallion Sets: Golden Prospects, HR Kings, On-Base Leaders, Power Plus, RBI Kings, Rising Stars
Bidder Action / Explanation Date of Bid and Retraction
munchjs( 217) Retracted: US $25,111.00
Explanation: Entered wrong amount Bid: Oct-31-06 08:16:24 PST
Retracted: Oct-31-06 08:17:25 PST
Finger slip, muncher?
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>Bid retraction and cancellation history
Bidder Action / Explanation Date of Bid and Retraction
munchjs( 217) Retracted: US $25,111.00
Explanation: Entered wrong amount Bid: Oct-31-06 08:16:24 PST
Retracted: Oct-31-06 08:17:25 PST
Finger slip, muncher? >>
Indeed a finger slip. I meant to bid 251.11. I retracted and rebid the correct amount temporarily become the high bidder.
Unopened 1975 material
UL Magic the Gathering
<< <i>
<< <i>Bid retraction and cancellation history
Bidder Action / Explanation Date of Bid and Retraction
munchjs( 217) Retracted: US $25,111.00
Explanation: Entered wrong amount Bid: Oct-31-06 08:16:24 PST
Retracted: Oct-31-06 08:17:25 PST
Finger slip, muncher? >>
Indeed a finger slip. I meant to bid 251.11. I retracted and rebid the correct amount temporarily become the high bidder. >>
I don't buy that. You have to confirm your bid after you hit enter. Then you retracted within one minute!
I have been on eBay for 7 years and it would take me much longer than 1 minute to find where to retract my bid. Then, you bid $255.55. WTF!? If you meant to bid $251.11, why the hell would you change your tune so fast and bid a different amount?
You surely knew what you were doing. You have 8 bid retractions in the last 6 months. That's WAY too many. Plus, none of your 47 bids in the last 30 days have ended in 11cents. That's a cheap trick you pulled.
My Auctions
It is fairly obvious if you sell on ebay, or are very observant, to see who the retractors are. Way too many people pulling that crap just to see what the reserve or high bid amount is.
Anytime someone has done that on my auctions I check out their retraction record ASAP. If I notice a pattern they will get blocked from my auctions forever.
-- Yogi Berra
It took me 6 minutes to find the link.
My Auctions
<< <i>I used to know where to find a user's retraction record, but I've forgotten where it is??? >>
IM PROUD TO SAY OVER 500 EBAY SCORE (MOST PURCHASES) AND ZERO BID RETRACTIONS.....THAT TAKES THE FUN OUT OF IT. KNOWING THE RESERVE PRICE!
Arthur
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>Bid retraction and cancellation history
Bidder Action / Explanation Date of Bid and Retraction
munchjs( 217) Retracted: US $25,111.00
Explanation: Entered wrong amount Bid: Oct-31-06 08:16:24 PST
Retracted: Oct-31-06 08:17:25 PST
Finger slip, muncher? >>
Indeed a finger slip. I meant to bid 251.11. I retracted and rebid the correct amount temporarily become the high bidder. >>
I don't buy that. You have to confirm your bid after you hit enter. Then you retracted within one minute!
I have been on eBay for 7 years and it would take me much longer than 1 minute to find where to retract my bid. Then, you bid $255.55. WTF!? If you meant to bid $251.11, why the hell would you change your tune so fast and bid a different amount?
You surely knew what you were doing. You have 8 bid retractions in the last 6 months. That's WAY too many. Plus, none of your 47 bids in the last 30 days have ended in 11cents. That's a cheap trick you pulled. >>
Uhm, yes it was. I bid in odd amounts and I type on a laptop. I hit the comma by mistake and the bid amount jumps into the thousands. I enter through everything so quick and then realize I went too fast when I see my bid confirmation emails. So I rebid at .55 instead of .11? So what? I still rebid. And I have also bought my fair share (of what I can afford) of cards on ebay all of which have positive feedback and in which I have paid promptly on my winnings.
Jason
Unopened 1975 material
UL Magic the Gathering
<< <i>I know munch doesn't do basketball cards, but just in case I blocked him.
It took me 6 minutes to find the link. >>
Thanks for the block. You do not know me and I am a paying bidder on my winnings. Perhaps you have judged to wuickly on a a board member that you do not know very well? When I was a lurker here for several months when I used to chat on the non sports I have always respected your posts. However, you have judged me very fast.
Jason
Unopened 1975 material
UL Magic the Gathering
and I agree Great set.
I remember when everyone had to have his RC card.
mike
<< <i>Well don't hold out on us. What was the reserve? >>
I honestly don't know. I simply retracted, rebid, and I eventually did a high bid at 355 that still didn't make the reserve. If I retracted as a game, then why would I bid into the mid 300's in the last day of the auction?
Jason
Unopened 1975 material
UL Magic the Gathering
I have been on eBay for 7 years and it would take me much longer than 1 minute to find where to retract my bid.
Plus, none of your 47 bids in the last 30 days have ended in 11cents. That's a cheap trick you pulled. >>
I've been on eby for 7 years or so too and I knew where to find the bid retraction long before I ever had to use it back in my Magic the Gathering days. Under any item's bid history it tells you about retracting bids. It's not hard to discover ebay features.
Few of my bids have ended in any consistant dollar amout... .23cents, .66cents ...etc I have no particular pattern. 11cents is just abother number.
Unopened 1975 material
UL Magic the Gathering
<< <i>I have been on eBay for 7 years and it would take me much longer than 1 minute to find where to retract my bid.
Plus, none of your 47 bids in the last 30 days have ended in 11cents. That's a cheap trick you pulled. >>
I've been on eby for 7 years or so too and I knew where to find the bid retraction long before I ever had to use it back in my Magic the Gathering days. Under any item's bid history it tells you about retracting bids. It's not hard to discover ebay features.
Few of my bids have ended in any consistant dollar amout... .23cents, .66cents ...etc I have no particular pattern. 11cents is just abother number. >>
If I misjudged, I appologize. However, if you are taking advantage of the system, think about what you are doing and try to control yourself next time. Please don't take offense to that as if you really are on the level, that should not affect you in any way.
I appreciate that you liked my posts in the past and you may have even read the one where I got screwed by a finger slipping incident. I am just a little suspect of that claim because it has affected me personally in the past and I may have misjudged that incident as well, nobodys perfect.
Bygones.
My Auctions
I am actually a friendly person who works too many hours in the week.
Oy, its late.
Jason
Unopened 1975 material
UL Magic the Gathering
You're lucky that I haven't renewed my sniping service and that I wasn't able to get online!
Great price on that card!
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<< <i>Congrats on the Joe Carter Munch!
You're lucky that I haven't renewed my sniping service and that I wasn't able to get online!
Great price on that card! >>
He did not win the card, the reserve was not met.
* C. PASCUAL BASIC #3
* T. PEREZ BASIC #4 100%
* L. TIANT BASIC #1
* DRYSDALE BASIC #4 100%
* MAGIC MASTER #4/BASIC #3
* PALMEIRO MASTER/BASIC #1
* '65 DISNEYLAND #2
* '78 ELVIS PRESLEY #6
* '78 THREE'S COMPANY #1
WaltDisneyBoards
<< <i>I don't really use reserves on my auctions, but I am curious about something. The reserve is used to make sure you get a certain price...correct? Why don't people just list the reserve price in the auction description to avoid this? If someone wants that card for that price they know exactly what to bid to get it. Is there something I'm missing? Why are the reserve prices so mysterious? >>
I agree. I may have run 10 or so auctions with a reserve in the last 2 years and I ALWAYS list what the reserve is in the description.
ISO 1978 Topps Baseball in NM-MT High Grade Raw 3, 100, 103, 302, 347, 376, 416, 466, 481, 487, 509, 534, 540, 554, 579, 580, 622, 642, 673, 724__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ISO 1978 O-Pee-Chee in NM-MT High Grade Raw12, 21, 29, 38, 49, 65, 69, 73, 74, 81, 95, 100, 104, 110, 115, 122, 132, 133, 135, 140, 142, 151, 153, 155, 160, 161, 167, 168, 172, 179, 181, 196, 200, 204, 210, 224, 231, 240
<< <i>I don't really use reserves on my auctions, but I am curious about something. The reserve is used to make sure you get a certain price...correct? Why don't people just list the reserve price in the auction description to avoid this? If someone wants that card for that price they know exactly what to bid to get it. Is there something I'm missing? Why are the reserve prices so mysterious? >>
Great point. I think in auction houses if there is a reserve on an item, it is always disclosed. I don't know why eBay is different.
My Auctions
It is kinda of like the "Best Offer" feature but different.
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<< <i> I agree. I may have run 10 or so auctions with a reserve in the last 2 years and I ALWAYS list what the reserve is in the description. >>
By listing your reserve price in the description, why not make it your start bid price and not have a reserve? Your listing fee is based on your start bid or reserve.
The only advantage to the seller is that buyers do not know your "take it" price and may bid it up past that price.
For the buyers, it really should not make any difference. The buyers should already have their "buy it" price. If it is below the reserve, they would not have bought/bid on the item in the first place.
Dimes: 54S, 53P, 50P, 49S, 45D+S, 44S, 43D, 41S, 40D+S, 39D+S, 38D+S, 37D+S, 36S, 35D+S, all 16-34's
Quarters: 52S, 47S, 46S, 40S, 39S, 38S, 37D+S, 36D+S, 35D, 34D, 32D+S
74 Topps: 37,38,46,47,48,138,151,193,210,214,223,241,256,264,268,277,289,316,435,552,570,577,592,602,610,654,655
1997 Finest silver: 115, 135, 139, 145, 310
1995 Ultra Gold Medallion Sets: Golden Prospects, HR Kings, On-Base Leaders, Power Plus, RBI Kings, Rising Stars
That is true to an extent, but a reserve auction that starts off at a dollar will also generate alot of bidding action, since buyers don't know what the reserve price is, and they try to outbid one another. An auction that starts off at a higher price, on the other hand, will not usually generate much bidding action. Ebay used to indicate when the reserve "was met" in an auction listing once the reserve was reached, but they don't anymore, so bidders are probably more likely to keep bidding after the reserve is met, too. In the past, I think some bidders were a little less likely to keep bidding once the auction stated that the reserve was met, thinking that the reserve somehow equated to full price.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
Jason
Unopened 1975 material
UL Magic the Gathering
That scenario is exactly what the reserve auction is intended for, however. The seller was not willing to simply sell the card to the high bidder, but wanted to see where the bidding action would lead. If you (as the high bidder) did not reach the reserve with your "high" bid, then it wasn't enough for this particular seller to part with the card. SMR is simply a guide. The worth and value of a card is relative to what the buyer (or in this case, the seller) determines it to be.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
...Man, I really need to see somebody about this typing thing. I MEANT to type in,"To each, his own. Love one another." How does one retract a post on here?
For anything under a couple hundred bucks, yes, I agree with you there, but for higher grade stuff, reserve auctions do serve a purpose. Wouldn't be surprised if that Carter card wound up being sold off ebay as a result.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.