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Advice On Shooting Copper?

Hi, Everyone.

I'm trying to get a few coins set up for auction, but the problem I'm having is, they're cents, and I don't seem able to get anything other than either:

a) a dark disc with very little detail, or
b) decent detail but with glare that obscures the coin.

I can't seem to get it to the point where the coin is decently lit, but not picking up glare from the light hitting the plastic on the 2X2.

Any suggestions on how to accomplish this?
If you haven't noticed, I'm single and miserable and I've got four albums of bitching about it that I would offer as proof.

-- Adam Duritz, of Counting Crows


My Ebay Auctions
image

Comments

  • robertprrobertpr Posts: 6,862 ✭✭✭
    Take them out of the 2x2's to shoot.
  • no image



    same problem here
  • (sorry dont know how to delete and accadently replied twice)
    image
  • Well, your 1941 Mercury dime looks good. Do them the same way.
    image
  • notwilightnotwilight Posts: 12,864 ✭✭✭
    Today were you shooting in a well lit room and now it's night and more difficult? At night you'll need two lights at 90 to 135 degrees apart. Put the bulb about the height of the camera about 45 degrees from horizontal (or vertical) and light the coin well. Remember to use spot metering or the camera will set the exposure for the white background and the coin will be a black disk.

    I experiment with different colored backgrounds (felt, .20/sheet at walmart) to get an albedo that compliments the coins (albedo is the ammount of light reflected and has nothing to do with color, really). --Jerry
  • I haven't tried it myself, but I've been told that a 12 gauge shotgun works pretty well. image
  • garsmithgarsmith Posts: 5,894 ✭✭
    <<I haven't tried it myself, but I've been told that a 12 gauge shotgun works pretty well.image>>

    I prefer using my 30-06 at 300 yards!


  • WoodenJeffersonWoodenJefferson Posts: 6,491 ✭✭✭✭
    imageNo coppers, got one with a banana?
    The pictures shown in this forum make it look easy to shoot coins, just try it once, not as easy as it looks. Hope you get some help so they come out satisfactory, you have some of the best in the business here.image
    Chat Board Lingo

    "Keep your malarkey filter in good operating order" -Walter Breen
  • WoodenJefferson:

    That is way cool! image


  • << <i>Today were you shooting in a well lit room and now it's night and more difficult? At night you'll need two lights at 90 to 135 degrees apart. Put the bulb about the height of the camera about 45 degrees from horizontal (or vertical) and light the coin well. Remember to use spot metering or the camera will set the exposure for the white background and the coin will be a black disk.

    I experiment with different colored backgrounds (felt, .20/sheet at walmart) to get an albedo that compliments the coins (albedo is the ammount of light reflected and has nothing to do with color, really). --Jerry >>



    Hi, Jerry.

    Thanks for the advice. One Stupid Newbie Question: What's spot metering?? I've got a Nikon CoolPix 4100, and I don't think it's got any kind of metering to it. (I could be wrong, though. Maybe I'm just not looking in the right place.)

    smokinjoe925:

    Thanks. image Unfortunately, I tried the same method as with the Mercury dime, and failed miserably. I think it has to do with the different coloring. Light coins (dimes, dollars, modern Lincolns) come out okay, but classic copper just comes out looking like a perfectly circular turd!
    If you haven't noticed, I'm single and miserable and I've got four albums of bitching about it that I would offer as proof.

    -- Adam Duritz, of Counting Crows


    My Ebay Auctions
    image
  • carlcarl Posts: 2,054
    I always suggest taking photos outdoors on a black background. Not in direct sunlight though. If in a 2x2 you'll usually get a glare off the plastic to some degree but if you just use outdoor lighting it should be better than discribed. If you take coins out of the 2x2's the photo will always be better. If you have a black Bar-B-Que lay the coin on that but make sure there is no fire going at the time.
    Carl
  • When I was a kid I'd shoot copper cents with my .22 rifle.
    It's easy. Just prop em up on top of a fence post and walk back fifty feet or so, and shoot away.
    You're welcome.

    Ray
  • notwilightnotwilight Posts: 12,864 ✭✭✭
    re: spot metering.

    It's on your menu (of the camera). I don't have time to look up specific directions right now and I'll be away from the computer today. --Jerry
  • how about shooting them outside the flips, with a grey backgroud or off/white.
  • RichieURichRichieURich Posts: 8,563 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I haven't tried it myself, but I've been told that a 12 gauge shotgun works pretty well. image >>



    Aw, Richbeat beat me to the punchline! Guess that's how he got his name.

    Definitely, definitely, take the coin out of the 2x2. It always ticks me off when someone on eBay is selling an expensive coin and won't take the coin out of the 2x2 because they don'twant to spend the 4c for a new 2x2.

    An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.

  • MikeInFLMikeInFL Posts: 10,188 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Hi, Everyone.

    I'm trying to get a few coins set up for auction, but the problem I'm having is, they're cents, and I don't seem able to get anything other than either:

    a) a dark disc with very little detail, or
    b) decent detail but with glare that obscures the coin.

    I can't seem to get it to the point where the coin is decently lit, but not picking up glare from the light hitting the plastic on the 2X2.

    Any suggestions on how to accomplish this? >>



    In a), you are underexposing -- use manual or aperature priority exposure, and decrease the shutter speed until the "dark disc" gets the appropriate level of contrast.

    In b) your lights are in the wrong position -- try moving them "lower". I've found copper cents look best when lit from approximately 45 degrees to the coin. You are probably closer to 90 degrees. Another explanation is that you are not keeping the coin and the camera parallel -- they need to be on the a parallel plane or you risk reflections without careful light positioning.

    Here's one I took last night, with a single light at 12 o'clock located 45 degrees to the ANACS slab:

    imageimage

    Hope this helps...Mike

    p.s. I disagree with the advise given re:spot metering. I've found center-weighted to be a much better and more consistent method of metering/exposure.
    Collector of Large Cents, US Type, and modern pocket change.
  • BlindedByEgoBlindedByEgo Posts: 10,754 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Advice On Shooting Copper:

    1. Take dead aim
    2. Exhale slowly
    3. Squeeze trigger

    image


  • << <i>

    << <i>Hi, Everyone.

    I'm trying to get a few coins set up for auction, but the problem I'm having is, they're cents, and I don't seem able to get anything other than either:

    a) a dark disc with very little detail, or
    b) decent detail but with glare that obscures the coin.

    I can't seem to get it to the point where the coin is decently lit, but not picking up glare from the light hitting the plastic on the 2X2.

    Any suggestions on how to accomplish this? >>



    In a), you are underexposing -- use manual or aperature priority exposure, and decrease the shutter speed until the "dark disc" gets the appropriate level of contrast.

    In b) your lights are in the wrong position -- try moving them "lower". I've found copper cents look best when lit from approximately 45 degrees to the coin. You are probably closer to 90 degrees. Another explanation is that you are not keeping the coin and the camera parallel -- they need to be on the a parallel plane or you risk reflections without careful light positioning.

    Here's one I took last night, with a single light at 12 o'clock located 45 degrees to the ANACS slab:

    imageimage

    Hope this helps...Mike

    p.s. I disagree with the advise given re:spot metering. I've found center-weighted to be a much better and more consistent method of metering/exposure. >>



    Hey, thanks! I'm hoping that when I get the Studio-In-A-Box thing that I want, I'll be able to get a better handle on lighting and exposure and such issues. Right now I've got a tripod and a desk lamp that I move around manually to light the coin, and take the picture one-handed. (If I take my hand off the camera, the tripod falls over.)

    Anyway, thanks for all the advice. When I get home I'll check the manual for my camera to see about exposure and metering and all those things. Up until now I've been relying on autofocus and macro mode. They've served me well for silver, but classic copper's been another story.
    If you haven't noticed, I'm single and miserable and I've got four albums of bitching about it that I would offer as proof.

    -- Adam Duritz, of Counting Crows


    My Ebay Auctions
    image


  • << <i>I always suggest taking photos outdoors on a black background. Not in direct sunlight though. If in a 2x2 you'll usually get a glare off the plastic to some degree but if you just use outdoor lighting it should be better than discribed. If you take coins out of the 2x2's the photo will always be better. If you have a black Bar-B-Que lay the coin on that but make sure there is no fire going at the time. >>



    Unless you want some toning
    Luck happens when preparation meets opportunity.

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