about selling my complete sets

SFdawg

1993 Topps Gold [825] + 1993 Topps Black Gold [44} --- These cards have been boxed since their purchase back in 93/94. I pulled the Derek Jeter rookie and had it graded, it came back a PSA Mint 9. I examined the card and it has a 1cm hairline printing imperfection. I examined a majority of the rest of the set and no other cards displayed this problem, or any other problem. I looked over the SMR and Beckett, to get an idea of what they would sell for as is, but I'm debating on having the entire set graded. I'm positive they would all come back as PSA 9's and 10's. (If I didn't, I wouldn't spend that much on them.) Soooo.. my question is, if I did have them all graded, does anyone have any idea what the entire set may sell for? (If they all came back a 10, I would get the Jeter RC as a 10 too to make it a perfect set.) Any input on this matter is greatly appreciated.


1968 Topps [598] - I am slowly putting together a complete Mint set of this year. Shouldn't be too hard, since there is quite a few around. My question about this (and the drive behind doing it, as I am collecting raw cards and only having the best ones sent in for grading) is: how much would a complete set of this year sell for as Mint?

This would help me to decide what to do next before I become too much invested in these cards. I have tons of other cards I'm wanting to sell, and as soon as possible too.

AlanAllen

You'd be better off selling the cards raw. No matter how good your eye is and how clean your set is, there's just no way you'll get 800+ 10's with no 8's or 9's. Even if you did, you're looking at $4000-$5000 in grading fees, and I can't imagine there are any collectors out there willing to pay that for a '93 Topps Gold set. Even if it was the nicest one in the world. I'm being honest since you came here to ask... I think you'd lose your shirt if you got that set graded.

mikeschmidt

I would agree with the above assessment. Almost all the cards in the 1993 Gold set and Black Gold set would be money losers in anything less than PSA 10 - and I think the vast majority of commons wouldn't even get their grading fees back even if they were PSA 10. Unless you have submitted a few thousand cards for reference, I would imagine that there are many more PSA 8 quality cards in your set than you might think.

As for the 1968 Topps set - there have been a number of completely graded sets for sale over the past few years. Graded sets, especially from the late 1960s and 1970s are not at the point where they are selling for premium prices as compared to their break-up value. This is not necessarily the case for some early 1960s and earlier completely graded high-grade sets. With certain vending runs in the 1968 set having come to the hobby over the past few years, there are some specific cards that are very plentiful in PSA 9 and 10 grade [Grant Jackson and Phillies Team card come to my mind], whereas there are many others that are much more difficult in PSA 9.

~ms

joemaggio

I had your wide-eyed optimism on grading a few years ago, only to have PSA crush all my big-money dreams.

If you haven't already done so, get a 10x loupe and check every corner, front and back, before you send anything in. Unfortunately, I think you'll be very disappointed thinking everything you have is a 10... 10's are hard to come by for the individual collector like you and me. Good luck.

Stump

I agree with the assessments so far. I have a 89 set that is 793 PSA 10's and the last 7 are 9's. This did not come from one set. It came from over 50 factory sets and lots of submissions. I also bought a huge lot of 10's from Joe Tuttle. Even in the late 80's and 90's 10's are not that easy to come by. I would not recommend you sending in the set without checking it through the loupe.

Just my 2 cents

DJJ

brianwintersfan

<< <i>1968 Topps [598] - I am slowly putting together a complete Mint set of this year. Shouldn't be too hard, since there is quite a few around. My question about this (and the drive behind doing it, as I am collecting raw cards and only having the best ones sent in for grading) is: how much would a complete set of this year sell for as Mint? >>



I think you aren't being realistic when you think building a true mint set won't be that hard. Finding clean raw cards isn't as easy as it used to be. The SMR on a PSA 9 set is $43,000+. Not sure what complete sets are selling for as of late but I think that will be a beast to pull off.
Maybe you should try to contact some of the guys on the set registry who have built the '68 set and they can fill you in on what you are in for.

NickM

A lot of high-pop common PSA 9s from 1968 can be picked up for $10 or less (plus shipping). I expect that a straight PSA 9 set could be built for about 2/3 SMR, if you were buying graded and willing to wait for deals.

I don't know what the set would sell for at auction.

Nick

brianwintersfan

<< <i>I expect that a straight PSA 9 set could be built for about 2/3 SMR, if you were buying graded and willing to wait for deals. >>



Which is still a good chunk of change in my book.

NickM

brian - that's why buying 8s from that set at $5 or less is so appealing.

Nick

SFdawg

After sending in my first free cards, I learned very quickly what PSA is all about. I did buy a magnifier too and I examine several aspects of each and every single card. The front corners, back corners, gloss, front centering, back centering, edges, any damage what-so-ever that would degrade the card from a mint status I wouldn't even bother to send it now.

Unfortunately, the hardest thing about working with the 68 Topps is, in my opinion, the centering.

Also, complete 68 sets sell on ebay for $1,400 (NM) to $4,550 (NmMt) complete 1968 set that sold for $4,550
Its a bit of a story how this all happened, but I have reached the point where I can't afford to spend anymore on these without knowing what to expect out of it. If I am to complete this set as a solid Mint, it'll be from 90% raw cards I had graded. I would only buy already graded cards for the most difficult ones to find. I'm still missing 15 cards, and they just dont list on eBay or anywhere near the condition I want. Almost call my cards I would say are NmMt and better. But without those final 15 cards, I cant sell it as a complete set.

AlanAllen: It would cost $4,994 + Shipping & Insurance both ways. I dont believe I could sell them all and make even half my money back. I didnt believe it would be worth the time or money.



Well, thanks everyone. My thoughts were echoed on here a couple times. I'm glad I asked before I went any further. Anything else?

MorrellMan

Dawg - I'm building the same kind of '68 set - raw in nrmt/mt. I have a stack of probably 300 dups in the same shape. If you have similar doubles, we can help each other with a trade. Send me a PM if you're interested.

brianwintersfan

<< <i>brian - that's why buying 8s from that set at $5 or less is so appealing. >>



I totally agree. My 1956-62 Braves team sets are 7's and 8's. Plenty of nice older cards with good eye appeal can be had for a good price if you look.