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"Original Skin" on a coin. What does this term mean to you?

I suspect that the term has different meanings to different persons; and further that the "original skin" of one type of, or series of, a coin is different.
I have looked at a number of MS Jeffersons, Roosies, Walkers and Frankies over the past week and noticed a wide variety of surface appearances/characteristics on the coins.
Please tell us what the term means to you. Please also tell about what this term means when applied to the one series or multiple series of coins that you specialize in. If enough people respond to this thread, I think it could be an informative and educational (and perhaps entertaining, depending on the type of replies to this thread that people can think of) thread.
Thanks in advance. SanctionII.
I have looked at a number of MS Jeffersons, Roosies, Walkers and Frankies over the past week and noticed a wide variety of surface appearances/characteristics on the coins.
Please tell us what the term means to you. Please also tell about what this term means when applied to the one series or multiple series of coins that you specialize in. If enough people respond to this thread, I think it could be an informative and educational (and perhaps entertaining, depending on the type of replies to this thread that people can think of) thread.
Thanks in advance. SanctionII.
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I dont think that original skin is really that different from series to series as much as it is from metal to metal.
John
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<< <i>Ok, so how circulated can a coin be and still retain its "original skin"?
Aren't you supposed to be able to see mint bloom down into 45?
Then I guess after that the 'original' skin is gone!
I never thought about it like that.
-Amanda
I'm a YN working on a type set!
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Proud member of the CUFYNA
<< <i>Ok, so how circulated can a coin be and still retain its "original skin"?
<< <i>A coin can circulate and develop a natural patina. As long as this isn't disturbed, its still original. >>
At some degree of wear/circulation (AU?) a coin has lost enough of its original surface so that I would no longer refer to it as "original skin".
<< <i>To me, saying that a coin has its "original skin" means that nothing has been done to clean or strip it in any way - no dirt or oil has been removed, no dipping, nothing. Where collectible coins are concerned, this term can only really be applied to maybe 2-5% of the pieces out there (if I had to guess). Depending upon how the coin has been stored, an original skin can be thick and crusty (with all of the attendant dirt associated with those terms) or light and attractive. It can be toned or not. Coins that I think have original skin (after all, you can never be 100% sure, lol) have a look that I can only describe in terms of depth, if that makes any sense. >>
I agree.
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Here are two that are undoubtedly original.
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"Patina" is a word often reserved for toning that is silver to pewter in color, or perhaps tending towards russet. By comparison, colorful toning is rarely described as patination, and it is equally rarely found on circulated coins (except perhaps those elite AU58's). Of course, a circulated coin can acquire color from album storage after it has been pulled from circulation, but in general, it is fairly accurate to say that circulated coins are more often found with toning that could be described as a "patina," while uncirculated coins may exhibit toning that exceeds the eye appeal and color connated by the term "patina."
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My understanding of "original skin" is that it can be found only on MS and proof coins, and partially on AU coins. It is different that patina or toning. It is the surface of the coin as it exists at the time it is ejected from the striking chamber. If the "original skin" of a coin becomes toned or acquires patina, the coin still has original skin. However, if such a coin is placed in contact with other matter that disturbs the surface of the coin (i.e. it goes into circulation and over 20 years in commerce wears down to a Fine 20 coin; or it is a pocket piece for two weeks and develops light rub on the high points of the design; or 5 year old Timmy takes the coin from the flip his dad put the coin in and rubs a brillo pad across the coin) the "original skin" of the coin is forever lost.
I suppose that contact marks and hairlines would, technically, compel the conclusion that at least part of the "original skin" of the coin has been lost. This conclusion would not apply to die striations or planchet flaws/marks that remain on the coin after srtiking with the dies (As an example, I have a 1950 Proof Frankie that has lightly frosted devices and multiple marks/chatter on the devices. At first glance these marks/chatter look like post striking damage to the coin. However, looking more closely reveals that the marks/chatter have the same frost as the other portions of the devices. The frost is unbroken across the devices and continues down into and up out of the entire surface area of each mark/chatter on the devices) since the skin of the coin remains unbroken and undisturbed.
It is interesting looking at many different MS (and PF) coins of different denominations, series and metals. Each of the individual series of coins can have individual coins with original skin that have wildly different looks. I guess the variey in the "look" of the original skin on these coins is attributable to different factors, including planchet thickness, die spacing, planchet hardness or softness, die state (early, middle or late), hub state (early, middle or late), die maintenance/cleaning, the correct or incorrect placement of the dies in the striking chamber (parallel to each other or slightly outside of parallel), correct or incorrect planchet annealing before striking and many other things I can not think of at the moment.
The many different looks that "original skin" can have on a coin is one of the more fascinating things to ponder. It leads one to ask why does one particular coin have a certain type of look but another example of the same coin have a completely different look (break open an original bank wrapped roll of any MS coin minted over the past 60 years and compare the coins with each other, many different looks will be present).
My favorite type of "original skin" on MS coins is the type which results in a surface appearance that looks like a very, very, very fine layer of sheen has been deposited on top of the surfaces of the coin. The sheen looks like talcum powder or powdered sugar in size and texture. Very smooth and even, yet granular enough to where you can see that the surface is not smooth a glass window. This look, on silver coins, almost reminds me of a field of new, dry, snow that fell the night before. When the sun comes up the next morning, the unbroken field of new snow just shimmers in the sunlight. The same look is also present on non silver coins.
"Original skin" is hard to describe in words. After looking at enough coins, you find that you "know it when you see it". The two coins pictured by Coinlieutenant in his reply are very good examples of coins that have what I would consider "original skin" (I want those two coins).
Thanks for the great replies to this thread. Very informative and educational wot?
I agree- I've enjoyed reading the comments about original skin and how it relates to circulation wear. This thread beats the crap out of the "dead puppy" thread....
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First, great thread and some nice pictures have been posted. I like the 1809 5D... VERY NICE and worthy of an original surfaces designation. That coin clearly illustrates the need for the designation.
I am of the view that all undipped and unenhanced coins have original skin... the grade assigned to the coin is a reflection of its state of preservation in an effort to best describe its appearance. Wear obviously impairs lustre but the skin is really what makes a coin what it should be.
I believe original coins can be detected and recognized with a reasonable degree of accuracy.
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<< <i>Circulated coins can have original skin... as does the 1877 posted >>
I disagree. I think coins like that while "orignal" looking, have had their "original skin" worn away/off long ago.
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I would add, sanction said it best, as original as when the surfaces left the striking chamber, but
I think a say...VF20... can be all original because what remains has not been disturbed except by circulation, what remains is still original, as struck.
I'm not into heavy toners, but light-to-moderate rim toning can be very attractive.
Original coins deserve a premium over their non-original cousins in the same grade, imho.
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There is a difference between lustre and what was likely contemplated in the question What does original skin mean to you? The skin of the coin obviously wears as it circulates which reduces the lustre. Lustre is concidered by most to be the reflectivity of a coin generated by the metal flow lines that exist from when the coin is struck. Other than circulation, the lustre of a coin can also be impaired from improper cleaning and dipping.
Lets take a stab at separating the terms original and skin... from the responses, it seems that there is a view that original skin means as struck and that wear effects the skin. While this is one reasonable interpretation, perhaps an equally valid argument can be made that original has to do with how the coin was handled, stored and whether it was dipped or enhanced after entering circulation. One has to accept that business strikes were intended to circulate... if that is true, then is it reasonable to suggest that the skin will change as the coin circulates. Originality takes on a different meaning for circulated coins in that it is expected that the skin will be worn and some lustre will be lost... but if the coin retains that circulated look with surfaces that have not be dipped, cleaned or enhanced... does the coin have original skin? I say it does and the measurement of this loss is in part determined by how we grade the coin.
Original skin remains on circulated coins... the degree of making that determination soley on lustre creates a unfortunate set of circumstances that will likely lead to more coins being enhanced in anticipation of a higher grade. I think the 1895-O Morgan in the other thread illustrates my point.
Honest...I am trying to be brief and to the point.
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a nickel and gradually yellow with age. The yellow has a sort of copper-like ap-
pearance that almost seems to lie under the surface. Other colors are possible
and many of even the oldest are still quite white though.