High-end box break

onegaucho

Which one would you prefer? If it's "other", what other "high-end" box/pack would you break? (<$300/box)

Boopotts

This is an impossible question to answer-- at least considering the way you framed it-- since you're almost 100% guaranteed to totally lose your ass on any of these options. If someone put a gun to my head and said 'you have to buy one of these boxes and live with the results' I'd take the '03 Ultimate Basketball, but I'd do so knowing full well that I could probably pay for a week in Vegas with the money I expected to lose on the break.

mikeschmidt

<< <i>This is an impossible question to answer-- at least considering the way you framed it-- since you're almost 100% guaranteed to totally lose your ass on any of these options. If someone put a gun to my head and said 'you have to buy one of these boxes and live with the results' I'd take the '03 Ultimate Basketball, but I'd do so knowing full well that I could probably pay for a week in Vegas with the money I expected to lose on the break. >>



Well - I view these box breaks more of a lottery than anything else. 75% of the time, you get your ass handed to you. 20% of the time, you come out close to even, given or take. And 5% of the time you do well or really well, hitting that 1/1 super-fractor, autographed print plate game-used die-cut mirror black parallel that nets you tons of money.


Me? I choose the baseball one simply because I don't follow other sports.

XanaduNow

As many (3-4) boxes of 1986 Topps Football. With just 396 cards in the set you're going to find an awful lot of Rice, Young, Smith, White RCs to grade as well as the Montana, Marino, Payton, Elway and Moon.

IF you get lucky and pull a Rice 10 everything is paid for and then some. Those newer boxes are just too difficult to pull anything of value. You're essentially taking the risk that the one (if any) RC you get in your box will be one of the few you can earn on. Just not worth the risk. Even if you don't pull any 10s out of those '86s you're still going to have a sweet collection of HOFers and RCs, not to mention a few complete sets of the stuff.

If I HAD to break some modern stuff I'd go for some '02 Bowman product (Chrome, Best) in baseball. Pull some nice RCs and get them graded. While I think the '03 Ultimate basketball would be a good investment as unopened I would never crack a box. It's like playing the lottery and I'd rather play poker.

Arthur

onlyanumber

<< <i>As many (3-4) boxes of 1986 Topps Football. With just 396 cards in the set you're going to find an awful lot of Rice, Young, Smith, White RCs to grade as well as the Montana, Marino, Payton, Elway and Moon.

IF you get lucky and pull a Rice 10 everything is paid for and then some. Those newer boxes are just too difficult to pull anything of value. You're essentially taking the risk that the one (if any) RC you get in your box will be one of the few you can earn on. Just not worth the risk. Even if you don't pull any 10s out of those '86s you're still going to have a sweet collection of HOFers and RCs, not to mention a few complete sets of the stuff.

If I HAD to break some modern stuff I'd go for some '02 Bowman product (Chrome, Best) in baseball. Pull some nice RCs and get them graded. While I think the '03 Ultimate basketball would be a good investment as unopened I would never crack a box. It's like playing the lottery and I'd rather play poker.

Arthur >>



Well said!!!

jradke4

I would go with the other as well. Many to pick from. Mid-80's FB is great because of set size. So is early Fleer BkB but you wont sniff many packs of 86-87 for $1600. How many 82 Topps traded sets could you get to grade out the Ripkens? Just wondering havent looked at the price lately.