Is centering good enough and worthwhile to submit?

dougwtx

I have a Sc# 116, 210, and PR119 that I am considering submitting. The 116 I just want certified to denote any faults and authentication mainly; grading is secondary. The 210 and PR119 look to be MNH, but the 210 already has a cert just stating phOG, although I cannot find a hinge mark anywhere or any gum disturbance. The PR119 is raw, but has a guide line at left or part of adjacent stamp which may knock it down a few points. What are your opinions?

Thanks.
Doug

MSherman

The 210 looks pretty well centered. Assuming it is sound, it should be in the 80-85 range.
The PR119 also has generous margins. The photo is small, but the centering looks to be in the 85-90 range. The guideline may hurt it five points at most.
The 116 is high and left, but is well clear. 75-80 range, I'd say.

Now, these grades are estimates. The stamps could have creases, thins, small inclusions, been reperfed etc... so please understand that I can only offer my opinion on centering, assuming the stamps are free of faults.

Hope this helps.

dougwtx

Appreciate the input Mike. I will probably submit these at sometime. As mentioned, I would like a cert for the 116 just to make sure it is fault-free.

Thanks.
Doug

edueku

Doug,
If you don't want to get a cert with a mediocre grade on a specific stamp but still want a cert for it, just put a"minimum grade" on the submission form that you know the stamp won't attain. This is what I do to avoid having to send in an additional submission(and cost) for UNgraded stamps since you have to pick one or the other for the whole submission. Personally I think fairly inexpensive sound stamps with mediocre a grade on a cert do not sell as well as ungraded but sound stamps with a cert.

stampvendor

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I don't know where the above crap came from or how to get rid of it. Sorry about that!

Anyway......

I agree with Edueku. I don't see the point of getting something graded unless you think you are going to get a 90 or better. And just when you think you are going to, for sure, get at least a 90, the person at PSE grading your stamp probably won't agree with your opinion on the stamp's centering and will give you an 85 (no offense to Mike or PSE intended!). I think that most people who buy graded stamps are looking for the higher grades, 90 and above. I don't think getting an 80 or 85 stamp graded, for instance, adds anything to the stamp or its value. You're just as well off, I'd even say better off, with an ungraded certificate. That way anyone looking at the stamp can form their own opinion as to grade and your stamp just may look like a 90 to them!

Eileen Frohnen
E & M Graded Stamps






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dougwtx

Appreciate the input everybody. I guess if I do submit, it will be for an ungraded cert. I concur with both of you as to a "low" grade cert can actually make a stamp harder to sell. Thanks.

MSherman

I would likewise agree with the previous comments as they apply to post-1930 stamps, (and most of the more common post-1900 stamps as well.)

However, I think it's a mistake to dismiss graded stamps below the grade of 90 for most 19th century issues. My reasons are as follows:

1. Lots of the imperforates, 1857-1861 Issues, Pictorials, Banknotes, and early commemoratives (Columbians, Trans Miss etc...) are not inexpensive stamps in VF-80 Mint NH Ð or even F 70. Collectors of these stamps certainly expect, and deserve the quality they are paying for. Remember that as you get into the 50-80 range, there may be faults of varying degree that are important to identify, and avoid if possible.

2. PSE's grading standards are acknowledged to be on the more conservative side of what was prevalent in the retail market until recently. In other words, our VF 80s and 85s were what was commonly offered as "XF". These are good quality stamps, and in the realm of mid-19th century issues, very good quality. Remember that PSE generally grades stamps on an absolute scale Ð (there is no "VF for issue") so PSE allows very little leeway on the early issues, conditionwise.

3. To build a broader base of collectors who can eventually move up to 90+ grades, it is important to attract and cultivate less wealthy or younger collectors who may be only able to afford mid-grade stamps. Concentrating only on the XF-Superb market ignores an important market segment, vital to the future of the hobby.

4. Third party grading (whether through us, or the PF) is not about getting 98s and 100s. It is about getting your money's worth, and buying stamps graded impartially to a published standard, by an independent party not involved in the transaction. Does the buyer of a Scott No. 217 in VF 80 Mint NH for around $1,500 deserve any less than the buyer of a Scott No. 677 in Sup 98 Mint NH for about the same price? I don't think so. Why should they?

stampvendor

Mike, thanks for your post. You make some very good points. It's so nice to have your knowledgeable input and take on things.

Eileen Frohnen
E & M Graded Stamps