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Are these proof? [Buffs] *NEW PICS*

Here's a couple of buffs that I am not sure but they look like well struck and I want to know what you think.

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I also have a 1913. The obverse isn't amazing but the reverse is very well struck and great looking. I can post a pic if you want to see it, but any tips on how to tell if its proof?
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Comments

  • coinguy1coinguy1 Posts: 13,484 ✭✭✭
    No, those are circulated non-proofs.
  • Your's aren't...but to give you an idea of what proofs look like, follow this link:

    Proof Buffalo Nickel


  • << <i>Your's aren't...but to give you an idea of what proofs look like, follow this link:

    Proof Buffalo Nickel >>




    Wow, those are neat.
    image
  • LeianaLeiana Posts: 4,349
    Diagnostics for a proof (many which were mistakenly spent)- satiny, sharp inner rims, slightly broader than normal border. (Early proofs) (1913-1917)

    1936- Satiny and sharper, many were spent.

    1937- Brilliant (also some 1936s were brilliant)

    Check the surface of the 1913 to see if it looks granular, that is a sign of a matte proof.

    I have no idea about your coins.

    -Amanda
    image

    I'm a YN working on a type set!

    My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!

    Proud member of the CUFYNA
  • LeianaLeiana Posts: 4,349
    Geez it took me too long to type that. image

    -Amanda
    image

    I'm a YN working on a type set!

    My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!

    Proud member of the CUFYNA


  • << <i>Diagnostics for a proof (many which were mistakenly spent)- satiny, sharp inner rims, slightly broader than normal border. (Early proofs) (1913-1917)

    1936- Satiny and sharper, many were spent.

    1937- Brilliant (also some 1936s were brilliant)

    Check the surface to see if it looks granular, that is a sign of a matte proof.

    I have no idea about your coins.

    -Amanda >>



    Allright, thanks Amanda, that helps a lot. I'll check em out carefully. I don't want to miss anything by accident!
    image
  • LeianaLeiana Posts: 4,349


    << <i>Check the surface of the 1913 to see if it looks granular, that is a sign of a matte proof.


    Allright, thanks Amanda, that helps a lot. I'll check em out carefully. I don't want to miss anything by accident! >>



    See my edit above. image

    -Amanda
    image

    I'm a YN working on a type set!

    My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!

    Proud member of the CUFYNA
  • It's hard to tell but the 1913 does look like it's a little granular, but was circulated. I'll get the best pics I can and get em up here.
    image
  • I took these pics at angles just so you could see the surface well, not for sale shots, lol.

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  • << <i>Here's a couple of buffs that I am not sure but they look like well struck and I want to know what you think.

    /q]

    To be honest and frank, I think these belong in the Junk Box!
  • coinguy1coinguy1 Posts: 13,484 ✭✭✭
    Lambeau, there is no good reason to suspect that the1913 might be a heavily circulated proof. It appears to be a circulated business strike like the other pieces.
  • Though obviously not needed with the coins above, there is a diagnostic die crack which can aid in discerning lightly worn or dull 1936 satin proofs from premium quality busines strikes. Examine the image below; all (or at least all that I have seen) 1936 Type-1 proofs have a long, thin die crack that shoots off the back of the E in E PLURIBUS UNUM on the reverse. Unfortunately, the crack is too light to be seen on most images.

    image

    Kyle
  • Ohhhh, interesting. I didn't know that about the '36. Is there anything to distinguish the '13 or '37 like a die crack or anything?
    image
  • ArtistArtist Posts: 2,013 ✭✭✭
    I agree with Mark - the 1913 looks like a business strike to me. However, unless it is just the pic or has been tampered with in some way, it does appear to have an interesting lamination error on the obverse.
  • Every type 2 1913,1914 and 1915 matte proof will have a rim indentation that looks like a line where the face of the Buffalo is on the reverse rim. The problem is that some ( a limited amount) of business strikes will have it also. Also the edge will be sharp and boxy on the proof and beveled or rounded on the business strike.


  • << <i>I agree with Mark - the 1913 looks like a business strike to me. However, unless it is just the pic or has been tampered with in some way, it does appear to have an interesting lamination error on the obverse. >>




    Okay, well I'm pretty convinced the 1913 isn't proof. But to me it looks like there's a lamination error on the reverse, maybe a little on the obverse.


    Edited to say:
    Actually a good amount of lamination error on obverse and a fair amount on reverse, I just looked closer image
    image

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